signofinfinity

Ok, so following wolf guidelines to set up idle control....

-I got the engine to operating temp...
-stable idle with all idle control aids off...
-initial engine temperature is set to 0.(Control/Idle Folder)
-increase Init Eng Temp till rpm increases by 50 to 100rpm

...and its the last part that i cannot achieve! I went up to 130deg c and still no increase in rpm of 50 - 100. Is it perhaps that i have a slight rich idle?

anyone gone through the set up? I am not so sure on the stepper motor for idle control. Any typical settings around?

Thank.

George

aki11ez

i didn't use a bac on my motor, just tuned the idle ranges so i don't know about that, but just a general question..

you did turn off all the fuel modifiers when setting it correct? I mean engine temp is the obvious one, but air temp makes a difference as well. Even timing, especially at idle can throw off your a/f. I would double check that you don't have a timing modifier on as well, and that the timing readout matches what you set in the timing map "box."

Also something to keep a watch out for, is that when your tuning your fuel map at idle, changing one map box won't due, even if the floating box is setting solid on one box, it is still averaging between all those that surround it, and that will cause a hunting idle, unseemingly tunable idle, and just a pain in the *** in general. In my map at idle I have a 6 block section that surrounds idle in the fuel map and all are basically the same.

signofinfinity

...actually i had the fuel modifires temp air and engine on. However at 78deg c which is the normal running temp for my engine there is no fuel add on.

my idle is stable. plus or minus 20 rpm.in fact it pays about 870 to 910 with a target set at 890! I followed the dealer tech where as rpm decrease---fuel increase and so does ignition, and as load increases, fuel increases and so those ignition...

these are my ignition and fuel maps at idle....

turborotor

iTrader: (1)

I"m having the same problem signofinfinity. I can't get the BAC to work.

C

signofinfinity

i set configuration for stepper and 100 PMW...forward and 200 reverse steps on engine stop but... I just cant figure it out!!

my issues with wolf at the moment are
1. idle control,
2. boost control...i can only get 10psi at WOT!!

turborotor

iTrader: (1)

Finally got the idle control to work.

Seems to work when the pmw is at 100 and the idle center is above 210. Still have to fine tune it. Is very sensitive to the options if i go below a certain number it stops controlling.

Weird thing is, if i put it to 0pmw it works also up to a certain number. If I restart the engine it will not work. Only works again if above 100.

C

signofinfinity

hmmmm are you set to PMW or stepper?? the FDs got a stepper....

turborotor

iTrader: (1)

PMW on FC.

Is weird. It has a mind of its own. Sometime it works, others time it doesnt' I just have to find the right settings.

turborotor

iTrader: (1)

Finally got the thing to work well. Set the PMW to 175 and set the Initial Center engine to 204 I believe and it idles. Now I have to play with the rest of the settings to have all the bells and whistles working .

signofinfinity

good work.... i still gotta figure the stepper motor out on my fd.... i only get hummmms!!

Michael Smith

This is how I made my car idle! FC.... BAC .....
Step one
Go to the activation folder and turn idle control off.
Go to the idle centre folder and set them all to 0 for every tempreature setting.
Now you need to set your target speed of each tempreature. say 1200 cold to 850 rpm hot.

Now the tricky bit is actually setting the PWM frequency because it has heaps to do with bith the response and workability of the idle control system.

My PWM frequency is set at 100 but it will vary between BAC's Start at 75 hz and step up in 5 hz increments now here is the catch. the BAC takes about 20 seconds to move frequency. While at 75 Hz and with your motor hot manually adjust the idle stop until you get your target RPM for when it is hot.

Now keep on increasing the freqency and wait 20 seconds between steps until the idle jumps up and the rpm climbs rapidly to about 300 -600 rpm over your desired rpm. Now back it off 25 hz. The reason that it speeds up is that the BAC doesn't close because the frequency is too fast and the valve to respond too.

Now it should be back at your desired idle rpm.
Step 2
Using the hand control increase initial center value until the engine picks up 100 - 200 rpm (wait 20sec between each change in setting) . Now you are done for the moment save your map and exit . Turn off your car and go to bed.

Step 3 In the morning start your car and with your laptop go to the initial centre tempreature settings. Warning ** the software does not keep up with the actual engine tempreature keep a eye on the live temp in the bottom left hand corner. Now you need to keep a eye on the target RPM as you go as well because you are adjusting the initial centre to achieve this desired RPM do this all the way until the engine is hot. Now you are ready to turn it on.
Go to the activation and it on.

You now have a working idle I hope!

Michael Smith

signofinfinity

hmmm, from the frequency it seems that the FD stepper motor is similar. at 200hz, it keeps the rpm high when you gun the engine...high sy 2000 rpm

i gotta give it a try....

signofinfinity

is the idle valve on the FD same as the FC??

Michael Smith

No they are not the same but they do operate in the same manner ie they are both PWM and are not stepper control types. The OMP is a stepper on these though. The process I previously described will most likely work. Although I have never done a FD!!
Michael Smith

signofinfinity

i keep getting a hum of different frequency....from 0 to 255.... and the humm change is instantaneous...but 86 seems to work most..
i added 2 hz each time
is the hum normal?

Michael Smith

Yes the humm is normal what it is the soleniod going back and forward. You don't want it to open too far, just enough to get a little air through. The initial centre adjustment then supplies the correct air flow.

Michael Smith

signofinfinity

hmmmm, ok.....then 86 is the most likely frequency.....

signofinfinity

ok....so after leaving the engine to cool down, ...i lost the step what to do then...just turn on the activation folder????

the initial center temp has been set the night before.....no?

..is it normal for the center temp to be up over 200????

thanks

george

Michael Smith

George it could quite possibly be over 200 for the FD, but my guess is if it is that high then you need to move your PWM frequency up to about 100 -150Hz . This then should move your initial centre temp down around 100 -175. I would guess that you will need to have another go at this. Set up the frequency at about 100 and then move it up until the engine revs pickup to about 1500 to 1800 rpm. Then backup the frequency until the engine is just idling at your target rpm. Then back it off 10 Hz while the engine is hot. Now you have to move your inital centre from 0 (on the hand controller)up until you get the engine to pick up another 200 rpm.

Let it cool over night. In the morning get ready to start your car have your laptop connected at the initial centre temp screen and ready to go use the actual tempreature in the bottom left hand corner of the Wolf software. With the ignition turned on go to the cell tempreature that is indicated by the tempreature reading. You need to be very quick from here on. Now say the engine temp is 25 C and the target RPM at tha temp is 1700 rpm. Now the idea is to adjust the inital centre value to lift the engine speed to 1700 rpm before the tempreature rises to 26 degrees. Now this is almost impossible so what I do is try to get it right every 5 degrees and then when it is hot go back and adjust the rest by guess. I actually found that by copying the previous setting and pasting into the active cell was the fastest way to do this. You may need to do this over 2 days once you are happy go to the activation folder and turn it on. The engine will now track if it is loaded.
Regards
Michael Smith

signofinfinity

oooook. so, i will start again from pmw setting....however, at pmw set at 255 Hz the engine will idle onle at say 2000 rpm.

i think the air bleed valve is limiting the engine to 890 rpm, and its not a good idle speed for it to run at....
at pmw 255, i figure the engine should run round 2800 - 3000 rpm right?

thanks Michael

signofinfinity

ps.....what's the trigger one deg btdc??? 67deg???

considering that the fd has fixed position reluctors....

Michael Smith

YES....with the initial centre set at 0 and the PWM set to 255 it will have the valve wide open. You have 3000 rpm on a FC but this may be only 2000 rpm on a FD. As you drop the PWM down the rpm will drop off until it gets down to your idle speed that you ajdusted (or may need to adjust)with the screw on the throttle body(890 rpm?). Once it is down to that speed you are ready for the next step. Adjust the initial centre up from 0 until the engine picks up rpm. You will need to ask someone like Chris or Nyt about the CAS on the FD's I set my CAS (S4) on my to 60 deg advance.

Michael Smith

signofinfinity

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...39#post4353239

so....i mucked up my trig1 degrees.....

Got to re start working out my idle issues. emmisions decreased since i advanced my ignition to where it should be....

will keep ya posted

signofinfinity

ok....so with some other issues solved i can go on with the thread.....

i am running better with 16 degrees split....and some -12 overall trim.

so i must start again working on the central temp....

but this is my injector sequence.....
Inj1 offset 0(Rotor1)
Inj2 offset 0(Rotor1)
Inj3 offset 1
Inj4 offset 1
stge offset 0

Inj1 Skip 1(Rotor2)
Inj2 Skip 1(Rotor2)
Inj3 Skip 1
Inj4 Skip 1
Stge Skip 0

now, i figure thats the config.....but i may be wrong with a skip of 5 set on the triggering....