Also I attached a tube to the front of the air pump that routes into the filter. This does quiet it down some, but I don't understand why the pressure is getting backed up.

 

Heres a couple pics for you Jake.




RZ Racaros


Powder coated sub frames and removing all unused wires.


And a crappy cell phone start up vid.


I am waiting on a power steering line and a bunch of -6 AN fittings to do my fuel system correctly. And I have to weld up a exhaust and it will be drivable. A/C will get finished up in the spring (I have everything for it) So its almost done.

 

Damn Casey I'm SO jealous!

I'm going to do an LS1 swap at some point hopefully starting in the next year or two. After the FD is paid off. I think you should probably help me :-)

Did you make the subframe yourself?

 

FAP FAP FAP FAP FAP Casey I'm jealous! Still kinda wish I went the LSx route...if I coulda sourced a V8 cheap enough back that I'd have done it. Ended up dumping $2k on my turbo setup..then if you figured I didn't do that and sold my motor, ems, etc that would practically pay for the V8 swap...and I'd have a/c I miss a/c

 

It's no too late lil nicky! You can be V8 powered like I will be someday!

 

I didn't make the subframe. My subframe, tranny mount, cobra cradle and rad set up are all Samberg Rod and custom. He is a sponsor on norotors.com and he is local to us(Livermore). His stuff is by far the best out for a FD. And a forum member named pez makes all the best stuff for the FC.

Nick mounting kits for a FC are crazy cheap. And I picked this LS2 up for just over 2k. I basically stole the thing.

 

That IS a steal, what about the transmission t56? How much?

Never heard of Samburg, is his pricing good?

 

Tranny is out of a 06 GTO that only had 14k miles so I paid a premium price. $1500. But its worth it for a all low mile drive train. The motor has the most miles at 40k. The cobra rear had low miles too and the axles are brand new from the drive shaft shop but I of course bought the most expensive upgraded ones they make. $1500 for axles and aluminum drive shaft. I have spent around 15-16K on this car in the last year doing this build, and have another 2k to go before i am happy.

Sambergs stuff is decently priced. He has a vendor page on norotors.com that has all his prices on it. His cradles are worth every penny though.

When you get serious give me a call and i will help you plan it all out to fit your budget. We swapped my old red FD last summer for around 6k including a LS1 and tranny.

 

Damn 6k, that's pretty cheap! I will definitely be talking to you when the time comes. That's about the cost of rebuilding your engine twice and transmission once. lol

 

Hey now!

 

heheh Oh you caught that did ya. lol

J/K Preston!

 

:p

 

I'll be sure to hit you up when I have money for the swap...hmmm wouldn't be a bad idea when I sell the FC to grab an FD shell and get to work on the swap >

 

Are you still trying to sell your FC nick?

 

Problem....

 

what problem?

 

my fd is actually two fd's? :-(

 

What?

 

Take the back half of a montego blue touring car and the front half of a SSM base model and you have my car.

Look up the term cut and shut.

Don't suppose you have any gutted FD shells you want to sell or give to me?

 

I don't right now. We just got rid of one that needed a little work and had no title. Where did they graft the two together and did they do a good job? How about a couple pics? I will keep a look out for a shell for you.

 

Whoa really Jake? That's shitty...and yeah still trying to sell the FC.

 

They grafted it at the bottom below the seats near the rear of the center console and at the windshield about 3 inches up the a pillar. The pics of the A-pillar didn't turn out, but here's the pics I could get of it with the seats in. Judging by some of the Holes you can see where the seam is, I'd say this car is definitely not structurally sound and the chassis is basically junk.

 

This is what the bottom side looks like.

 

Well that is exactly where the front frame rails end. If they did it decently you could be ok. Is it ideal? hell no. But I think it could be safe to drive. Take a wire wheel under your car and lets see how the welds look. Worst case I can bring my welder down and we can add some metal to that area for the time being while we find a shell.

Also you might as well start taking out the seats and carpet so we can see what they really did down there. This sucks Jake. I will put a couple calls out for a stripped shell.

 

what the ****?