NorCal Community Chat Thread v. 3.0- 2010
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 832
Likes: 11
From: Northern California
Very funny ben, I checked and the ecu sends ground to the relay when key on engine off, but doesn't run when the engine is on...
Also found one of my wires from the ecu that goes to the OMP was disconnected at a wire splice, will be resoldering that. Several other wires were tapped for some reason, so I'll be soldering and wrapping all the wires hat have been tapped.
Also found one of my wires from the ecu that goes to the OMP was disconnected at a wire splice, will be resoldering that. Several other wires were tapped for some reason, so I'll be soldering and wrapping all the wires hat have been tapped.
np, i just get **** if i go over since we're on a family phone plan.
just start going over the inputs to the ECU, it sounds like the ECU is confused and doesn't know that the engine isn't under a load and is turning off the circuit for some reason. ie, TPS out of adjustment, transmission gear selector inputs, RPM signal(should be fine though or i'd assume it wouldn't run), clutch switch, etc.
i don't remember the wiring harness being that bad but then again i wasn't really getting paid for the job so i wasn't going out of my way to make a showroom new car and it was 5 years ago now so who knows. anyways you can get alot of info from the pins leading to and from the ECU, codes pulled from the diagnostic connector/CEL and wires off the engine harness. just takes time to sort through the soup and that soup was pretty messy.
just start going over the inputs to the ECU, it sounds like the ECU is confused and doesn't know that the engine isn't under a load and is turning off the circuit for some reason. ie, TPS out of adjustment, transmission gear selector inputs, RPM signal(should be fine though or i'd assume it wouldn't run), clutch switch, etc.
i don't remember the wiring harness being that bad but then again i wasn't really getting paid for the job so i wasn't going out of my way to make a showroom new car and it was 5 years ago now so who knows. anyways you can get alot of info from the pins leading to and from the ECU, codes pulled from the diagnostic connector/CEL and wires off the engine harness. just takes time to sort through the soup and that soup was pretty messy.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 832
Likes: 11
From: Northern California
Here is what the harness at the ECU looks like. I have repaired all but 2 of the splices so far. But I got tired of contorting my body to solder under the dash.
Here is what it looked like before.
Here is what it looked like before.
I have some FD harnesses (harnessii?) if you need anything. Sounds like you're just fixing a few wires though so maybe you're good. Wow, thanks for reminding me I have a plastic tub full o' burnt up FD harness. I need to recycle that junk or something, maybe part it out. One of these days...
That's a negative on all those. There is a batt. tray in the project FD but it's cut slightly due to the wider radiator and I need it for the battery, heh. The driver FD doesn't even have a tray -- battery is relocated. I can try to make a list of all the spares I have, there's not much in the way of body/interior parts though.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 832
Likes: 11
From: Northern California
I need the under dash panel on the driver side.
Well I got my split air pipe on, for some reason my ecu isn't triggering my air pump to kick on. It activates the clutch when the key is in the on position but when the car is running it won't trigger. Going to have to do some more research. There has been one time where it seemed like it tried to come on, cold start up. It will run for a few seconds but then shut off again.
Well I got my split air pipe on, for some reason my ecu isn't triggering my air pump to kick on. It activates the clutch when the key is in the on position but when the car is running it won't trigger. Going to have to do some more research. There has been one time where it seemed like it tried to come on, cold start up. It will run for a few seconds but then shut off again.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 832
Likes: 11
From: Northern California
Well sweet I got the air pump to work now. Turns out the TPS was installed incorrectly so the ECU had no input for throttle. Took it out and reinstalled it, adjusted it and tweaked the idle. The car actually idles like normal now at like 850 rpm, no brap brap brap.
Problem is my air pump sounds like a freakin Harley when it runs. So I think I may need a different one. :-/
I will post a video as soon as it is done uploading.
Problem is my air pump sounds like a freakin Harley when it runs. So I think I may need a different one. :-/
I will post a video as soon as it is done uploading.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 832
Likes: 11
From: Northern California
you can try running a hose from the smog pump down under the air filters and attach a filter to the inlet on your new hose. the smog pump is pretty loud when it doesn't have the stock airbox to muffle the noise it produces, a different one may be quieter but will still make the same noises.
could be the diaphragm behind the ACV missing, most of the work disassembling and painting the throttle body and manifolds was done not by me so i didn't double check it. even with the diaphragm missing though this sounds odd, could just be some stuck vanes in the pump itself from sitting or some knucklehead taking it apart and messing with it and not putting everything back in place properly or at all. i've never disassembled a smog pump, mainly because there's never been a need to, they don't fail often at all(in fact i've never seen a bad one yet, just some weak ones that still did the job and some noisy ones from sitting that get quieter as they are worked back in). not sure what i'd suggest, it's not a good idea to spray some lubricant into the pump but if it's not going to fix itself with a little time then **** it.
if you pull off the ACV(sits on the inside of the LIM above the rats nest with 2 black electrical connectors and 1 white) there is a one way circular diaphragm that sits in the lower intake manifold. i don't have any FSMs loaded onto this machine to try and get a picture of what it looks like or where it goes, just describing it. you can only really install it one way so it's self explanatory, cone on the diaphragm faces the LIM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 832
Likes: 11
From: Northern California
I took the outlet hose off of the air pump and started the car, it was MUCH quieter, barely noticeable over engine noise. If I put my thumb over the pipe it got louder the more I closed up the hole. So basically the noise is the pump creating pressure and then apparently it has nowhere to go? The air from the pump should flow to the exhaust, into the manifold, or out the dump tube, right? Don't think it should be getting "backed up".
I'm thinking my ACV may not be sending the air anywhere. Not sure how to figure that out though.
I'm thinking my ACV may not be sending the air anywhere. Not sure how to figure that out though.



Of course my car fired up for the first time a couple weeks ago.