Yea I saw that kit as well. Really good price and its looks quality made. I would like to see some installed pics though!

 

yep, the exact same thought came to my mind when I saw it. Will definitely pick it up if it look something similar to the FC V-mount.

-AzEKnightz

 

yes yes please more updates on the FD vmount!

 

Here is some of the latest parts that will be available soon.....

New Rotary-Works TiTANIUM Exhaust sleeves for FC,FD and 20B.

These sleeves are replaceable to the rotary housings using the same location Side pins.The New R-W sleeves are smooth without any of the EGR holes or defflectors founds on the NA rotor housings.Our sleeves are perfect for turbo upgrades or NA upgrades for any type of Racing.

 

Now available are the NEW Rotary-Works 13B Billet E centric shafts....

Cut out CNC cut 4340 steel,these are made based on the Rx8 lightened specs with tappered
rear journal....

These shafts are made for high boost applications for extreme conditions.With better metals such as 4340,there is less flexing and more boost.

 

Any chance of a titanium E-shaft? Not sure if there are any disadvantages to that metal over steel but I would think the reduction in rotating mass would be huge!

 

Rene,
Do you have the exhaust sleeves in stock? Can I stop by this evening and pickup a set?

Thanks
Albert

 

how much are the titanium exhuast sleeves? they arent up in the website yet =\ hopefully not pricey =D

 

BTW............ Anyone thinking about ordering a radiator from them for your FC, and hopefully the quality here is not the same for the FD and V-Mount pieces, see here. So far the response I got from them is, "It's made that way to clear the sway bar, and just get a universal hose". Which is total BS. The inlet points completely in the wrong direction. I tried fitting my silicone hoses, and stock hoses on it, as pictured. No dice. The heater hose nipple is welded on so close to the end that I can't even get a hose clamp on it, and this is the thinnest hose clamp I could find. Pay no attention to the rest of the engine bay, I just got the car and am trying to piece it back together properly. lol

 

^ Have you tried a universal hose yet?

 

A universal hose isn't going to solve that problem..... I'm using a Spectre universal hose for my upper radiator hose, but you need more room to get the clamp over and get a good seal. That secondary nipple isn't in a good position at all.

 

Weld an extension and angle it towards your hose. Welding is not that expensive at a shop. Looks like a pile of crap though. Dont know why anyone would design it that way?

 

The point is, I shouldn't need a universal hose. I should get something that works like I paid for.

 

Hopefully this was a one off mistake and not the norm. Thats some poor fabrication.

 

I still haven't heard any word from them since "make it work". Giving them until close of business tomorrow then Paypal dispute is getting filed.

 

Doing some backwards logic here, and it comes pretty close to what they claim. rotary-works says it is half the weight, while wikipedia says 45%. Pretty close.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Titanium

From their site the titanium nut weighs in at 3 ounces

http://www.rotary-works.com/mm5/merc...gory_Code=TITP

So the stock unit would be just shy of 6 ounces.

Every bit counts but I find it hard to believe you could measure the performance difference. For anyone who is unsure 16 ounces = 1lb.

 

I'll be getting a few things in the near future, can't wait to get this FC up and really going

 

3.75 lbs of unsprung weight and rotational inertia should have a modest effect on the car.

 

So I actually gave them until Tuesday to file a dispute, as I was busy this weekend. Their response was for me to pay to ship the radiator back, so I would be out $30-40 and a bunch of time to have no radiator and start all over again, or they will refund me $20, which is F-ing ridiculous. It will cost me far more to take it to a radiator shop and have it modified to work correctly. Customer service at it's best! Beware buying any items from Rotary Works/CXRacing.

 

^had the same exact problem with their rad for my FC. They refunded my money plus the shipping i originally paid. But had to eat my own shipping cost to get it back to them. The "reason" they told me mine didn't fit right was because my car was lowered. Besides that in any case the small nipple on the lower rad hose is trash welded and not at all in the right direction. Terrible if you ask me, i saw that piece of junk and was like ohh Hell no.

 

Honestly its not going to cost that much more than 20$ to get it fixed. Plus the 40$ youll save not shipping it back. Unless the shop rapes you in the ***.

 

^^ But it will cost more, and not only that but now I have to take time out of my schedule to go take and get welded, something I shouldn't have to do. Because I bought a radiator that should drop right in with no modifications.. Maybe your time is worth nothing, but mine is.

BurnOrangeT2- Mine's not even lowered, their stuff is just garbage apparently.

 

**** happens. It sucks you have to deal with it but im saying fixing it is faster then getting a new radiator. And it will be cheaper as well. Shouldnt have to do it but you do so what other option is there but save as much money as possible.

 

I've had nothing but good service from rotary works. I think you complain too much. If you thought about it, it is a bad spot for the heater hose, you could get a 2 inch section of piping and weld it up and be done with it. If you took it to a shop and told them your dilemma, they might give you a break since it's such an easy job. Instead you decided to rant about it on the forums.

You ordered a non oem part, you should expect to have to modify some things.

 

not to add fuel to the fire but i bought the exhaust manifold these are my suggestions. when you get it you have to resurface it, especially the t4 flange, the holes with the thread on the t4 flange one of them was off to the side so i have to redrill a bigger hole and rethread using thicker studs. also the D shape flange i had to get it welded on the inside enough to match my t4 gasket, if you leave it alone its very possible that the gasket wont seal plus youll have a wall blocking the exhaust.. the wastegate flange i cut it off and welded the greddy one because its a different design so i cant complain on that one. in total add an estimated guess of 100-150$ to the price if you want it done right. which is still cheaper than getting a custom one done lol so im still happy =) these are recomendations