V8???
09-21-02, 01:17 AM
#26
I wish I was driving!
Re: V8???
Originally posted by M35514H
I have a 1986 rx7 n/a. I also have a 350 chevy small block v8 out of my grandads truck. Should i use it in a swap from www.grannysspeedshop.com. I think it will be cheaper, and faster than any 13bt that i could do. Please give me your honest opinion. I am mainly thinking about this swap because i am 17 and it will end up being much cheaper and a lot lower maintenance.
I have a 1986 rx7 n/a. I also have a 350 chevy small block v8 out of my grandads truck. Should i use it in a swap from www.grannysspeedshop.com. I think it will be cheaper, and faster than any 13bt that i could do. Please give me your honest opinion. I am mainly thinking about this swap because i am 17 and it will end up being much cheaper and a lot lower maintenance.
Bastard swaps can rarely be done cheaply... this project, with that goal in mind, would wind up being sold off not even half-finished.
09-21-02, 02:07 AM
#27
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V8 threads make the baby jesus cry.
Can't you just search through the flame fests of past to find the info.
PS, SBC 350 truck motor is an insult to the 7. If your going to bastardize a car, any car, at least do so with some respest...
Can't you just search through the flame fests of past to find the info.
PS, SBC 350 truck motor is an insult to the 7. If your going to bastardize a car, any car, at least do so with some respest...
09-21-02, 10:18 AM
#28
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Originally posted by Silkworm
On a real race track Tec? Of my choosing?
Not some street race, I mean a real track.
Be careful what you say, someone might take you up on it.
PaulC
On a real race track Tec? Of my choosing?
Not some street race, I mean a real track.
Be careful what you say, someone might take you up on it.
PaulC
09-21-02, 02:07 PM
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Ok ok boys this has been pretty one sided so led me shed some light on the subject.
V8 swaps can be much cheaper, and much more expensive than a 13bt swap depending on with v8 you choose. There are a number of companies out there that make bolt in swap kits, so the swap is not quite the task that some of you make it out to be. It shouldnt cost you any more than 2K dollars if you already have a good motor and trans. Keep in mind that the motor will still sit behind the front tires, and the motor still sits very low. Handling is hardly effected, and to some it is improved. My V8 powered RX-7 is still very confident around turns. It handles far better than I will ever need it to in a real world situation. Parts are readily available, they are cheap, and they don't break. Think about this for a moment. Say you have a stock chevy 350 okay(god I swear this is the last time I do this).
Take it all apart. Toss the stock cam, rods and pistons, heads, rockers, intake manifold and carb. Here is a list of parts that would gauranteed make over 400hp.
Holley 750 double pumper mech secondaries.
mmmm 76's for the front jets, 83's for the rear.(400)
Edlebrock RPM air gap intake manifold(200)
Stock casting GM double hump heads 2.02/1.60(400 bucks rebuilt)
Roller rockers(160 bucks)
3/8's screw in studs + machine work (100)
heads are done.
bottom end.
10:1 forged pistons. The size of the piston dome depends on chambers in heads.(200)
Chevy pink rods, which are basically LT1 rods.(150)
Any cam and lifter package you want you want(150)
I would suggest about 500 lift/294 duration. You can go bigger, but you wouldn't be able to run vacumm breaks.
A complete rebuild kit with High quality gaskets and piston rings goes for about 100 bucks.
Last but not least.... arp studs for the bottom end. 40 bones
Your stock pushrods should be fine.. if there are some bad ones replace them. They are only a few bucks.
Now put it all together(or have a competent shop do it) and break in the cam. This motor would make about 450hp anywhere between 6000 and 7000K RPM, and it would have enough torque to pull a tree down... not that I would suggest trying it in an RX7. Guess what else? It will last much longer than any 450hp rotary could ever imagine, and cost half as much as a rotary with that much power, not to mention be faster(torque).
You also have unlimited transmission choices. Anything from a 2 speed powerglide to a T-56. Sooooo...... For about 2500 dollars you can have a low 11 second street car, that handles better than 90% of the vehicles on the road. I know I left quite a few things out... and I applaud anyone who read this entire post.
V8 swaps can be much cheaper, and much more expensive than a 13bt swap depending on with v8 you choose. There are a number of companies out there that make bolt in swap kits, so the swap is not quite the task that some of you make it out to be. It shouldnt cost you any more than 2K dollars if you already have a good motor and trans. Keep in mind that the motor will still sit behind the front tires, and the motor still sits very low. Handling is hardly effected, and to some it is improved. My V8 powered RX-7 is still very confident around turns. It handles far better than I will ever need it to in a real world situation. Parts are readily available, they are cheap, and they don't break. Think about this for a moment. Say you have a stock chevy 350 okay(god I swear this is the last time I do this).
Take it all apart. Toss the stock cam, rods and pistons, heads, rockers, intake manifold and carb. Here is a list of parts that would gauranteed make over 400hp.
Holley 750 double pumper mech secondaries.
mmmm 76's for the front jets, 83's for the rear.(400)
Edlebrock RPM air gap intake manifold(200)
Stock casting GM double hump heads 2.02/1.60(400 bucks rebuilt)
Roller rockers(160 bucks)
3/8's screw in studs + machine work (100)
heads are done.
bottom end.
10:1 forged pistons. The size of the piston dome depends on chambers in heads.(200)
Chevy pink rods, which are basically LT1 rods.(150)
Any cam and lifter package you want you want(150)
I would suggest about 500 lift/294 duration. You can go bigger, but you wouldn't be able to run vacumm breaks.
A complete rebuild kit with High quality gaskets and piston rings goes for about 100 bucks.
Last but not least.... arp studs for the bottom end. 40 bones
Your stock pushrods should be fine.. if there are some bad ones replace them. They are only a few bucks.
Now put it all together(or have a competent shop do it) and break in the cam. This motor would make about 450hp anywhere between 6000 and 7000K RPM, and it would have enough torque to pull a tree down... not that I would suggest trying it in an RX7. Guess what else? It will last much longer than any 450hp rotary could ever imagine, and cost half as much as a rotary with that much power, not to mention be faster(torque).
You also have unlimited transmission choices. Anything from a 2 speed powerglide to a T-56. Sooooo...... For about 2500 dollars you can have a low 11 second street car, that handles better than 90% of the vehicles on the road. I know I left quite a few things out... and I applaud anyone who read this entire post.
09-21-02, 02:08 PM
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Originally posted by Dyre
V8 threads make the baby jesus cry.
Can't you just search through the flame fests of past to find the info.
PS, SBC 350 truck motor is an insult to the 7. If your going to bastardize a car, any car, at least do so with some respest...
V8 threads make the baby jesus cry.
Can't you just search through the flame fests of past to find the info.
PS, SBC 350 truck motor is an insult to the 7. If your going to bastardize a car, any car, at least do so with some respest...
09-21-02, 02:53 PM
#31
M355-
I say go for it
! This is a rotary forum so you are going to get biased views however only a 20B will be able to touch the torque output of a V8 in any streetable combination. And as far as high hp rotary reliability..... I'll just keep quiet 
.
If the stock engine runs well leave it alone. If you can afford $800 then get some GM Vortec heads ($450) from Scoggin Dickey in Texas (near you) that have upgraded springs and can handle a .550" + lift cam. Upgraded cam/lifters $250 (call Competition Cams), Edelbrock Vortec intake manifold $200 also. You also need new valvecovers and intake manifold. This combo will increase the compression ratio 1 full point, increase airflow (old school double hump iron heads suck compared to these new school design), and add an easy 70hp+ on 92 octane. Hooker shorty headers and a dual 2 1/2" exhaust to top it off.
Regarding the transmission.... you need an overdrive tranny as RX-7's have either 3:90 or 4:10's out back and your engine will cry for mercy otherwise when cruising on the freeway without overdrive. Get a TH200-4R or TH700R4.... A T-5 (5speed) manual will last for a while.... but if you drive like I did when I was 17 get either a T-56 6speed ('92-97 Camaro) or a Tremec TKO 5speed.
The swap can be costly but do your homework before the swap to see what costs you will encounter. When it is done you will have a smile on your face every time you start the car. I do!
If want more info and see other people who have done a swap please check out the forum at V8RX7.com
http://www.torquecentral.com/forumdi...php?forumid=11
TEC- would you entertain racing a little V6 instead of a V8?
GNX7
I say go for it
! This is a rotary forum so you are going to get biased views however only a 20B will be able to touch the torque output of a V8 in any streetable combination. And as far as high hp rotary reliability..... I'll just keep quiet .If the stock engine runs well leave it alone. If you can afford $800 then get some GM Vortec heads ($450) from Scoggin Dickey in Texas (near you) that have upgraded springs and can handle a .550" + lift cam. Upgraded cam/lifters $250 (call Competition Cams), Edelbrock Vortec intake manifold $200 also. You also need new valvecovers and intake manifold. This combo will increase the compression ratio 1 full point, increase airflow (old school double hump iron heads suck compared to these new school design), and add an easy 70hp+ on 92 octane. Hooker shorty headers and a dual 2 1/2" exhaust to top it off.
Regarding the transmission.... you need an overdrive tranny as RX-7's have either 3:90 or 4:10's out back and your engine will cry for mercy otherwise when cruising on the freeway without overdrive. Get a TH200-4R or TH700R4.... A T-5 (5speed) manual will last for a while.... but if you drive like I did when I was 17 get either a T-56 6speed ('92-97 Camaro) or a Tremec TKO 5speed.
The swap can be costly but do your homework before the swap to see what costs you will encounter. When it is done you will have a smile on your face every time you start the car. I do!
If want more info and see other people who have done a swap please check out the forum at V8RX7.com
http://www.torquecentral.com/forumdi...php?forumid=11
TEC- would you entertain racing a little V6 instead of a V8?
GNX7
Last edited by gnx7; 09-21-02 at 02:58 PM.
09-21-02, 03:05 PM
#32
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Yes the GN swap is also a highly potent one.
Consider this....
There are guys running 11's in their turbo regals with slightly over 1K into the motor, and thats in a 3400 pound G body. Take away at least 400 pounds an you easily have a low 11 high 10 second car. I have seen a few GN swaps in person. One was a Red second gen(Misred) and a 240 Z(scottie). I was very impressed.
Consider this....
There are guys running 11's in their turbo regals with slightly over 1K into the motor, and thats in a 3400 pound G body. Take away at least 400 pounds an you easily have a low 11 high 10 second car. I have seen a few GN swaps in person. One was a Red second gen(Misred) and a 240 Z(scottie). I was very impressed.
09-21-02, 11:16 PM
#33
I wish I was driving!
Originally posted by BogusFile
Ok ok boys this has been pretty one sided so led me shed some light on the subject.
V8 swaps can be much cheaper, and much more expensive than a 13bt swap depending on with v8 you choose. There are a number of companies out there that make bolt in swap kits, so the swap is not quite the task that some of you make it out to be. It shouldnt cost you any more than 2K dollars if you already have a good motor and trans. Keep in mind that the motor will still sit behind the front tires, and the motor still sits very low. Handling is hardly effected, and to some it is improved. My V8 powered RX-7 is still very confident around turns. It handles far better than I will ever need it to in a real world situation. Parts are readily available, they are cheap, and they don't break. Think about this for a moment. Say you have a stock chevy 350 okay(god I swear this is the last time I do this).
Take it all apart. Toss the stock cam, rods and pistons, heads, rockers, intake manifold and carb. Here is a list of parts that would gauranteed make over 400hp.
Holley 750 double pumper mech secondaries.
mmmm 76's for the front jets, 83's for the rear.(400)
Edlebrock RPM air gap intake manifold(200)
Stock casting GM double hump heads 2.02/1.60(400 bucks rebuilt)
Roller rockers(160 bucks)
3/8's screw in studs + machine work (100)
heads are done.
bottom end.
10:1 forged pistons. The size of the piston dome depends on chambers in heads.(200)
Chevy pink rods, which are basically LT1 rods.(150)
Any cam and lifter package you want you want(150)
I would suggest about 500 lift/294 duration. You can go bigger, but you wouldn't be able to run vacumm breaks.
A complete rebuild kit with High quality gaskets and piston rings goes for about 100 bucks.
Last but not least.... arp studs for the bottom end. 40 bones
Your stock pushrods should be fine.. if there are some bad ones replace them. They are only a few bucks.
Now put it all together(or have a competent shop do it) and break in the cam. This motor would make about 450hp anywhere between 6000 and 7000K RPM, and it would have enough torque to pull a tree down... not that I would suggest trying it in an RX7. Guess what else? It will last much longer than any 450hp rotary could ever imagine, and cost half as much as a rotary with that much power, not to mention be faster(torque).
You also have unlimited transmission choices. Anything from a 2 speed powerglide to a T-56. Sooooo...... For about 2500 dollars you can have a low 11 second street car, that handles better than 90% of the vehicles on the road. I know I left quite a few things out... and I applaud anyone who read this entire post.
Ok ok boys this has been pretty one sided so led me shed some light on the subject.
V8 swaps can be much cheaper, and much more expensive than a 13bt swap depending on with v8 you choose. There are a number of companies out there that make bolt in swap kits, so the swap is not quite the task that some of you make it out to be. It shouldnt cost you any more than 2K dollars if you already have a good motor and trans. Keep in mind that the motor will still sit behind the front tires, and the motor still sits very low. Handling is hardly effected, and to some it is improved. My V8 powered RX-7 is still very confident around turns. It handles far better than I will ever need it to in a real world situation. Parts are readily available, they are cheap, and they don't break. Think about this for a moment. Say you have a stock chevy 350 okay(god I swear this is the last time I do this).
Take it all apart. Toss the stock cam, rods and pistons, heads, rockers, intake manifold and carb. Here is a list of parts that would gauranteed make over 400hp.
Holley 750 double pumper mech secondaries.
mmmm 76's for the front jets, 83's for the rear.(400)
Edlebrock RPM air gap intake manifold(200)
Stock casting GM double hump heads 2.02/1.60(400 bucks rebuilt)
Roller rockers(160 bucks)
3/8's screw in studs + machine work (100)
heads are done.
bottom end.
10:1 forged pistons. The size of the piston dome depends on chambers in heads.(200)
Chevy pink rods, which are basically LT1 rods.(150)
Any cam and lifter package you want you want(150)
I would suggest about 500 lift/294 duration. You can go bigger, but you wouldn't be able to run vacumm breaks.
A complete rebuild kit with High quality gaskets and piston rings goes for about 100 bucks.
Last but not least.... arp studs for the bottom end. 40 bones
Your stock pushrods should be fine.. if there are some bad ones replace them. They are only a few bucks.
Now put it all together(or have a competent shop do it) and break in the cam. This motor would make about 450hp anywhere between 6000 and 7000K RPM, and it would have enough torque to pull a tree down... not that I would suggest trying it in an RX7. Guess what else? It will last much longer than any 450hp rotary could ever imagine, and cost half as much as a rotary with that much power, not to mention be faster(torque).
You also have unlimited transmission choices. Anything from a 2 speed powerglide to a T-56. Sooooo...... For about 2500 dollars you can have a low 11 second street car, that handles better than 90% of the vehicles on the road. I know I left quite a few things out... and I applaud anyone who read this entire post.
You're list is missing a drivetrain for an 11 second car... so add in a transmission and custom fitting a rear-end or $400 for a custom driveshaft... and your listed engine would not make 400 hp...
09-22-02, 12:29 AM
#35
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Originally posted by BogusFile
Ok ok boys this has been pretty one sided so led me shed some light on the subject.
V8 swaps can be much cheaper, and much more expensive than a 13bt swap depending on with v8 you choose. There are a number of companies out there that make bolt in swap kits, so the swap is not quite the task that some of you make it out to be. It shouldnt cost you any more than 2K dollars if you already have a good motor and trans. Keep in mind that the motor will still sit behind the front tires, and the motor still sits very low. Handling is hardly effected, and to some it is improved. My V8 powered RX-7 is still very confident around turns. It handles far better than I will ever need it to in a real world situation. Parts are readily available, they are cheap, and they don't break. Think about this for a moment. Say you have a stock chevy 350 okay(god I swear this is the last time I do this).
Take it all apart. Toss the stock cam, rods and pistons, heads, rockers, intake manifold and carb. Here is a list of parts that would gauranteed make over 400hp.
Holley 750 double pumper mech secondaries.
mmmm 76's for the front jets, 83's for the rear.(400)
Edlebrock RPM air gap intake manifold(200)
Stock casting GM double hump heads 2.02/1.60(400 bucks rebuilt)
Roller rockers(160 bucks)
3/8's screw in studs + machine work (100)
heads are done.
bottom end.
10:1 forged pistons. The size of the piston dome depends on chambers in heads.(200)
Chevy pink rods, which are basically LT1 rods.(150)
Any cam and lifter package you want you want(150)
I would suggest about 500 lift/294 duration. You can go bigger, but you wouldn't be able to run vacumm breaks.
A complete rebuild kit with High quality gaskets and piston rings goes for about 100 bucks.
Last but not least.... arp studs for the bottom end. 40 bones
Your stock pushrods should be fine.. if there are some bad ones replace them. They are only a few bucks.
Now put it all together(or have a competent shop do it) and break in the cam. This motor would make about 450hp anywhere between 6000 and 7000K RPM, and it would have enough torque to pull a tree down... not that I would suggest trying it in an RX7. Guess what else? It will last much longer than any 450hp rotary could ever imagine, and cost half as much as a rotary with that much power, not to mention be faster(torque).
You also have unlimited transmission choices. Anything from a 2 speed powerglide to a T-56. Sooooo...... For about 2500 dollars you can have a low 11 second street car, that handles better than 90% of the vehicles on the road. I know I left quite a few things out... and I applaud anyone who read this entire post.
Ok ok boys this has been pretty one sided so led me shed some light on the subject.
V8 swaps can be much cheaper, and much more expensive than a 13bt swap depending on with v8 you choose. There are a number of companies out there that make bolt in swap kits, so the swap is not quite the task that some of you make it out to be. It shouldnt cost you any more than 2K dollars if you already have a good motor and trans. Keep in mind that the motor will still sit behind the front tires, and the motor still sits very low. Handling is hardly effected, and to some it is improved. My V8 powered RX-7 is still very confident around turns. It handles far better than I will ever need it to in a real world situation. Parts are readily available, they are cheap, and they don't break. Think about this for a moment. Say you have a stock chevy 350 okay(god I swear this is the last time I do this).
Take it all apart. Toss the stock cam, rods and pistons, heads, rockers, intake manifold and carb. Here is a list of parts that would gauranteed make over 400hp.
Holley 750 double pumper mech secondaries.
mmmm 76's for the front jets, 83's for the rear.(400)
Edlebrock RPM air gap intake manifold(200)
Stock casting GM double hump heads 2.02/1.60(400 bucks rebuilt)
Roller rockers(160 bucks)
3/8's screw in studs + machine work (100)
heads are done.
bottom end.
10:1 forged pistons. The size of the piston dome depends on chambers in heads.(200)
Chevy pink rods, which are basically LT1 rods.(150)
Any cam and lifter package you want you want(150)
I would suggest about 500 lift/294 duration. You can go bigger, but you wouldn't be able to run vacumm breaks.
A complete rebuild kit with High quality gaskets and piston rings goes for about 100 bucks.
Last but not least.... arp studs for the bottom end. 40 bones
Your stock pushrods should be fine.. if there are some bad ones replace them. They are only a few bucks.
Now put it all together(or have a competent shop do it) and break in the cam. This motor would make about 450hp anywhere between 6000 and 7000K RPM, and it would have enough torque to pull a tree down... not that I would suggest trying it in an RX7. Guess what else? It will last much longer than any 450hp rotary could ever imagine, and cost half as much as a rotary with that much power, not to mention be faster(torque).
You also have unlimited transmission choices. Anything from a 2 speed powerglide to a T-56. Sooooo...... For about 2500 dollars you can have a low 11 second street car, that handles better than 90% of the vehicles on the road. I know I left quite a few things out... and I applaud anyone who read this entire post.
Rotaries rock and V8s do not,
Isaac
09-22-02, 03:28 AM
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The stock naturally aspirated rear end works fine if you are running an automatic transmission. If your pushing over 400 hp a TII diff would be suggested. The stock shocks work well also. All you would need to do is eliminate the rear steer bullshit. I know that I left **** out, and I stated that. So tell me why that build up I described wouldn't be able to produce 400hp? I would like a logical explanation, if possible?
So an 86 na RX7 with intake exhaust and a ported intake manifold with a 300hp shot of nitrous and a TII tranny would be faster and cheaper than a 400hp SBC powered RX7? Thats rich. So we are looking at a total of 430 hp. What kind of torque figures would it put out?
We are also looking at a mandatory rear swap. Those non turbo rears don't take kindly to 7K rpm launches. Maybe you didn't take into consideration the fuel/ignition mods you would have to make to compensate for a 300hp shot of nitrous. Not to mention the fact that you would only be able to get about 5 runs if that on your stock motor. You would need porting, and serious motor reinforcing to handle a 300 shot. You have to be able to flow it, and keep the motor together.
Sorry bub... can't be done with 3K dollars.... unless you build it "right" yourself. And lets face it, the likelyhood of that happening are slim to none.
As for you black sport....
I can give a rats *** what you think about my car.
Its not a mazda anymore??? Assinine...
Rotarys rock V8s do not.... theres a wound that will surely never heal. If you had just took the time to read over your post and see how stupid you sound before you hit the "submit reply" button you would have avoided alot of embarassment. Don't get me wrong, I like all of you guys whether you disagree with me or not, but I just can't sit here and swallow this bullshit.
So an 86 na RX7 with intake exhaust and a ported intake manifold with a 300hp shot of nitrous and a TII tranny would be faster and cheaper than a 400hp SBC powered RX7? Thats rich. So we are looking at a total of 430 hp. What kind of torque figures would it put out?
We are also looking at a mandatory rear swap. Those non turbo rears don't take kindly to 7K rpm launches. Maybe you didn't take into consideration the fuel/ignition mods you would have to make to compensate for a 300hp shot of nitrous. Not to mention the fact that you would only be able to get about 5 runs if that on your stock motor. You would need porting, and serious motor reinforcing to handle a 300 shot. You have to be able to flow it, and keep the motor together.
Sorry bub... can't be done with 3K dollars.... unless you build it "right" yourself. And lets face it, the likelyhood of that happening are slim to none.
As for you black sport....
I can give a rats *** what you think about my car.
Its not a mazda anymore??? Assinine...
Rotarys rock V8s do not.... theres a wound that will surely never heal. If you had just took the time to read over your post and see how stupid you sound before you hit the "submit reply" button you would have avoided alot of embarassment. Don't get me wrong, I like all of you guys whether you disagree with me or not, but I just can't sit here and swallow this bullshit.
09-22-02, 12:41 PM
#38
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Take a chill pill
Originally posted by BogusFile
The stock naturally aspirated rear end works fine if you are running an automatic transmission. If your pushing over 400 hp a TII diff would be suggested. The stock shocks work well also. All you would need to do is eliminate the rear steer bullshit. I know that I left **** out, and I stated that. So tell me why that build up I described wouldn't be able to produce 400hp? I would like a logical explanation, if possible?
As for you black sport....
I can give a rats *** what you think about my car.
Its not a mazda anymore??? Assinine...
Rotarys rock V8s do not.... theres a wound that will surely never heal. If you had just took the time to read over your post and see how stupid you sound before you hit the "submit reply" button you would have avoided alot of embarassment. Don't get me wrong, I like all of you guys whether you disagree with me or not, but I just can't sit here and swallow this bullshit.
The stock naturally aspirated rear end works fine if you are running an automatic transmission. If your pushing over 400 hp a TII diff would be suggested. The stock shocks work well also. All you would need to do is eliminate the rear steer bullshit. I know that I left **** out, and I stated that. So tell me why that build up I described wouldn't be able to produce 400hp? I would like a logical explanation, if possible?
As for you black sport....
I can give a rats *** what you think about my car.
Its not a mazda anymore??? Assinine...
Rotarys rock V8s do not.... theres a wound that will surely never heal. If you had just took the time to read over your post and see how stupid you sound before you hit the "submit reply" button you would have avoided alot of embarassment. Don't get me wrong, I like all of you guys whether you disagree with me or not, but I just can't sit here and swallow this bullshit.
Oh, and the only one spewing the "bullsh#%" is you, "V8s are cool, my car is fast, blah, blah, blah." I think it's funny when guys like you talk up V8s swaps on an RX-7 board and expect everyone to like it or think you are cool, I think you need some work on your self esteem or something.
Happy boinging,
Isaac
09-22-02, 12:58 PM
#39
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Isaac is your classic rice boy.
My car is a marvel of modern engineering. I don't care that it's slow, paints faded, spews out blue smoke and is a walking fire bomb.. It's a marvel of modern engineering, so I'm better than you are.
Keep preaching, rice boy. You're just like most of the Honduh boys you guys cap on.
PaulC
My car is a marvel of modern engineering. I don't care that it's slow, paints faded, spews out blue smoke and is a walking fire bomb.. It's a marvel of modern engineering, so I'm better than you are.
Keep preaching, rice boy. You're just like most of the Honduh boys you guys cap on.
PaulC
09-22-02, 01:47 PM
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It could seem like I am bent out of shape. Thats not the case however. I have a good time writing replies to stupid comments. I don't even mind getting flammed or preached to, as long as the person doing it has a valid point and makes sense. I like to be proven wrong. It may hurt the pride a little, but at least you learn something. You see blacksport, the majority of what comes out of your mouth is fabricated nonsense that has no point and is based on a very biased uneducated opinion. Another thing... the RX-7 is not a good performance car simply because it has a rotary. It's a good performance car because it has a good chassis, brakes, suspension, steering, and they are a dime a dozen. The rotary engine is a good complement.
09-22-02, 01:53 PM
#41
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Originally posted by Silkworm
Isaac is your classic rice boy.
My car is a marvel of modern engineering. I don't care that it's slow, paints faded, spews out blue smoke and is a walking fire bomb.. It's a marvel of modern engineering, so I'm better than you are.
Keep preaching, rice boy. You're just like most of the Honduh boys you guys cap on.
PaulC
Isaac is your classic rice boy.
My car is a marvel of modern engineering. I don't care that it's slow, paints faded, spews out blue smoke and is a walking fire bomb.. It's a marvel of modern engineering, so I'm better than you are.
Keep preaching, rice boy. You're just like most of the Honduh boys you guys cap on.
PaulC
I may be a rice boy in your eyes (how an RX-7 owner can be one I'll never know), ouch that really hurts.......Heee-yuck I wish a drove me a 5.0 RX-7 then I could take my sister out on dates.....
You crack up,
Isaac
P.S. F.Y.I. RX-7s were made to handle well, not to take siblings out on dates in.
09-22-02, 02:02 PM
#42
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You're cool.....
Originally posted by BogusFile
It could seem like I am bent out of shape. Thats not the case however. I have a good time writing replies to stupid comments. I don't even mind getting flammed or preached to, as long as the person doing it has a valid point and makes sense. I like to be proven wrong. It may hurt the pride a little, but at least you learn something. You see blacksport, the majority of what comes out of your mouth is fabricated nonsense that has no point and is based on a very biased uneducated opinion. Another thing... the RX-7 is not a good performance car simply because it has a rotary. It's a good performance car because it has a good chassis, brakes, suspension, steering, and they are a dime a dozen. The rotary engine is a good complement.
It could seem like I am bent out of shape. Thats not the case however. I have a good time writing replies to stupid comments. I don't even mind getting flammed or preached to, as long as the person doing it has a valid point and makes sense. I like to be proven wrong. It may hurt the pride a little, but at least you learn something. You see blacksport, the majority of what comes out of your mouth is fabricated nonsense that has no point and is based on a very biased uneducated opinion. Another thing... the RX-7 is not a good performance car simply because it has a rotary. It's a good performance car because it has a good chassis, brakes, suspension, steering, and they are a dime a dozen. The rotary engine is a good complement.
The only reason you find my opinions to be uneducated is that they conflict with your own. A dime a dozen? A dime a dozen? There is no car like the RX-7 nor will there ever be anytime soon. Rotary engine sports cars are not exactly common. Good comment though, lol.
Isaac
09-22-02, 02:17 PM
#43
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The FC is a dime a dozen. Thats why I can go buy one for 500 bucks. Another reason I can buy one for 500 bucks or less is because there are a good amount of them out there with blown motors. I don't think your statements are ignorant because they conflict with my opinions. Its cool if you think the rotary is superior to the V8, and I can understand why you would think that.
I think you are ignorant because well..... thats how you portray yourself. Since when has the point of this forum become a pursuit of "smart points". I won't say it.... its to easy.
I think you are ignorant because well..... thats how you portray yourself. Since when has the point of this forum become a pursuit of "smart points". I won't say it.... its to easy.
09-22-02, 02:31 PM
#44
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Originally posted by eViLRotor
Its too bad that the ingnorance that is so pre-dominant on other forums, has slowly invaded this one as well.
Its too bad that the ingnorance that is so pre-dominant on other forums, has slowly invaded this one as well.
I don't own a V-8 powered RX-7, but I may do the swap one day. A lot of people who frown upon V-8 swaps have probably never been taken for a ride in a lightweight (ie: under 3000 lbs) car with a ~300HP V-8 and 4.10:1 gears before. 4.10:1 gears. Can you say torque multiplication?
I'd pay money to see a stock 200HP TII and a 200HP RX-7 V-8 run side by side. With a 300HP V-8 in a sub-3000 lbs RX-7 I'm willing to bet you can dump the clutch at idle and the car will immediately take off without touching the throttle. A 3 or 4 rotor is the only rotary I know of that will perform such a feat.
I'm not trying to knock the rotary, hell, I'm the VP for a Rotary Car Club. But don't knock the power and torque of a V-8 in the FC chassis. If you ever take a ride in one you will be very surprised at how ligtweight and snappy the car becomes.
09-22-02, 06:55 PM
#46
I wish I was driving!
Originally posted by BogusFile
The stock naturally aspirated rear end works fine if you are running an automatic transmission. If your pushing over 400 hp a TII diff would be suggested. The stock shocks work well also. All you would need to do is eliminate the rear steer bullshit. I know that I left **** out, and I stated that. So tell me why that build up I described wouldn't be able to produce 400hp? I would like a logical explanation, if possible?
So an 86 na RX7 with intake exhaust and a ported intake manifold with a 300hp shot of nitrous and a TII tranny would be faster and cheaper than a 400hp SBC powered RX7? Thats rich. So we are looking at a total of 430 hp. What kind of torque figures would it put out?
We are also looking at a mandatory rear swap. Those non turbo rears don't take kindly to 7K rpm launches. Maybe you didn't take into consideration the fuel/ignition mods you would have to make to compensate for a 300hp shot of nitrous. Not to mention the fact that you would only be able to get about 5 runs if that on your stock motor. You would need porting, and serious motor reinforcing to handle a 300 shot. You have to be able to flow it, and keep the motor together.
Sorry bub... can't be done with 3K dollars.... unless you build it "right" yourself. And lets face it, the likelyhood of that happening are slim to none.
The stock naturally aspirated rear end works fine if you are running an automatic transmission. If your pushing over 400 hp a TII diff would be suggested. The stock shocks work well also. All you would need to do is eliminate the rear steer bullshit. I know that I left **** out, and I stated that. So tell me why that build up I described wouldn't be able to produce 400hp? I would like a logical explanation, if possible?
So an 86 na RX7 with intake exhaust and a ported intake manifold with a 300hp shot of nitrous and a TII tranny would be faster and cheaper than a 400hp SBC powered RX7? Thats rich. So we are looking at a total of 430 hp. What kind of torque figures would it put out?
We are also looking at a mandatory rear swap. Those non turbo rears don't take kindly to 7K rpm launches. Maybe you didn't take into consideration the fuel/ignition mods you would have to make to compensate for a 300hp shot of nitrous. Not to mention the fact that you would only be able to get about 5 runs if that on your stock motor. You would need porting, and serious motor reinforcing to handle a 300 shot. You have to be able to flow it, and keep the motor together.
Sorry bub... can't be done with 3K dollars.... unless you build it "right" yourself. And lets face it, the likelyhood of that happening are slim to none.
Considering I run 280 hp shots, with over 120 lbs of nitrous used on my bascially stock engine.
Since you swapped out your rotary engine, I'm guessing you have absolutely no experience with nitrous on a rotary, and are talking out of your ***. You mention the torque of a nitrous motor, and yet you mention nothing about the FC chassis handling the torque of a V8? or did you not think about that....
Stock rotaries don't need to launch at 7000 rpm, so why would a modded rotary need to? maybe you just need to learn how to drive...
Rear steer, or DTSS, is a handling issue, and hardly related to a V-8 swap. Just try to explain why eliminatin rear steer has anything to do with the motor in the car.
Show me a dyno slip of your motor build-up making 400 hp. Until then, I'll go with the similar build-ups I've seen, and built, and the numbers they produce. You never need to prove why something doesn't work, you need to prove why something does work. You're just pulling a magical number out of a hat. While you're at it, prove what this "400 hp" motor dyno looks like in your RX-7.
I'm also questioning your car knowledge considering you misspelled "brakes". Also, in discussing how smart Isaac is, you used the wrong form of "too", a lesson learned in grades 2 and 3.
And as for the "that's rich" comment... I'll race you for $5K if your V-8 car is so quick. You pick a day, and we'll meet in the track that's closest between us.
Let's face it bub, the ability to do a V8 swap right for under $3K is not possible. Jimlab's is a V-8 swap done right. PM him with cost estimates...
Let's not, however get confused: I do respect V-8's. I've built them (S/C stroked Ford 302 was my favourite), raced with and against them, but bastard swaps are VERY hard to accomplish correctly and cheaply.
Cliche:
-Fast
-Cheap
-Reliable
Pick two of the above.
Stands true for V-8's as well..
09-22-02, 09:50 PM
#47
Senior Member
wow most of this sounds like a honda forum why doesnt everyone grow up and that it can be done relativlely cheap with a lot of home made fabrication but it will take time and whats this v8 dont rock. ya the rotary is an awesome design, but you have to give credit where credit is due and there are a lot more fast v8s then there are fast imports.
09-22-02, 10:03 PM
#48
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1. Before I got rid of the rear steer, my cars rear end wagged back and forth at speeds over 75mph at WOT. It has done that on quite a few converted 7's.
2. I never claimed that my car was fast. I personally think it's slow as ****. My cam and pistons are bone stock, and the motor I have came with shitty 305 smog heads. It does still manage consistent high 13's. Just curious, what do you run?
3.Stock rotaries do not need to launch at 7K rpm... unless there are slicks. Which in the case of a motor with a 300hp shot of nitrous I should hope there are.
4. I don't have a dyno slip of the motor I have described. Though I have seen that recipe cooked many times. I have seen similar build ups consistently put out 400 plus HP. That is to the flywheel.... just to make sure we are on the same page.
5. The FC chassis does handle the torque of a V8. I have yet to hear of anyone having any issues.
6. I may not have experience with nirtrous, but I do know a good amount about forced induction which is comparable to nitrous. What sort of fuel/ignition mods do you have to handle your nitrous?
7.Since when does grammar have anything to do with car knowledge?
quote"You're list is missing a drivetrain for an 11 second car... so add in a transmission and custom fitting a rear-end or $400 for a custom driveshaft... and your listed engine would not make 400 hp..."
I guess we are both idiots when it comes to cars.
8. What do you consider a V8 swap done the right way?
As long as the motor is located as low and far back as possible, and the motor mounts/tranny crossmember are good quality you should be fine. The rest is easy, and difficult to **** up on.
I have no dyno slips to show... so yes I am fabricating realistic numbers out of my head. I would be interested seeing a dyno slip from you though. Do you have one?
I would hope you would have one because with a shot like that you would need some tuning time on the dyno.
I just want to know how much you have invested into your car.... I don't beleive it can be done for 2500 dollars like you said in your earlier post.
2. I never claimed that my car was fast. I personally think it's slow as ****. My cam and pistons are bone stock, and the motor I have came with shitty 305 smog heads. It does still manage consistent high 13's. Just curious, what do you run?
3.Stock rotaries do not need to launch at 7K rpm... unless there are slicks. Which in the case of a motor with a 300hp shot of nitrous I should hope there are.
4. I don't have a dyno slip of the motor I have described. Though I have seen that recipe cooked many times. I have seen similar build ups consistently put out 400 plus HP. That is to the flywheel.... just to make sure we are on the same page.
5. The FC chassis does handle the torque of a V8. I have yet to hear of anyone having any issues.
6. I may not have experience with nirtrous, but I do know a good amount about forced induction which is comparable to nitrous. What sort of fuel/ignition mods do you have to handle your nitrous?
7.Since when does grammar have anything to do with car knowledge?
quote"You're list is missing a drivetrain for an 11 second car... so add in a transmission and custom fitting a rear-end or $400 for a custom driveshaft... and your listed engine would not make 400 hp..."
I guess we are both idiots when it comes to cars.
8. What do you consider a V8 swap done the right way?
As long as the motor is located as low and far back as possible, and the motor mounts/tranny crossmember are good quality you should be fine. The rest is easy, and difficult to **** up on.
I have no dyno slips to show... so yes I am fabricating realistic numbers out of my head. I would be interested seeing a dyno slip from you though. Do you have one?
I would hope you would have one because with a shot like that you would need some tuning time on the dyno.
I just want to know how much you have invested into your car.... I don't beleive it can be done for 2500 dollars like you said in your earlier post.
09-22-02, 10:05 PM
#49
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Originally posted by sbertolone
wow most of this sounds like a honda forum why doesnt everyone grow up and that it can be done relativlely cheap with a lot of home made fabrication but it will take time and whats this v8 dont rock. ya the rotary is an awesome design, but you have to give credit where credit is due and there are a lot more fast v8s then there are fast imports.
wow most of this sounds like a honda forum why doesnt everyone grow up and that it can be done relativlely cheap with a lot of home made fabrication but it will take time and whats this v8 dont rock. ya the rotary is an awesome design, but you have to give credit where credit is due and there are a lot more fast v8s then there are fast imports.
Ok lets not even start with the import VS domestic crap. its been so beaten over, and over, and over again.