You're kiddin' right ???

A Greddy T78 will out spool them and out flow them!!!!

Greddy will easily handle boost up to 30psi if not more and ~500rwh.

JD

 

Is this in regards to the bnr's or also stock twins? My power curve is smooth as silk to redline..(stockers non-seq @ 15 psi) You think the fuel pump can be causing the inconsistency (stock wiring)? Mine is relayed..

 

BADASS NUMBERS FROM THE BNR'S. is that sequential. you should be able to do at least 16psi on pump gas with good tunning

 

Finally! Great #'s Rich... What psi and what octane are you going to run on the street? Get the fuel pump relayed!!

 

I agree that the t78 will handle 30 psi, but most people wont ever even touch 20 psi. I rode in rich's car and my t78 definately is no faster spooling then the bnr twins. At the boost level in question, they are very evenly matched. If your looking to run more boost, then the t78 is the better choice, but if you dont plan on going any higher then this, no reason not to use the bnr turbos.

Adam

 

Good numbers indeed. Time to update your sig Rich!

 

OH... That was your car at rotorfest? Neat. Great job.

 

On the way back from the rotor fest when we got on Rt 80 Rich got into it and he rapidly closed the distance between us. This got me thinking.... I wonder what his HP to Weight ratio is. If you start with a stock curb weight of 2750 Lbs.... factor in a conservative weight loss of 150 Lbs, which would account for the alllll the delete you've done and do the math based on his latest HP figures... that would put him some where around 6.175Lbs to 1 HP ratop.... Jeeze.... no wonder you crawled up my tailpipe sooooooo fast !!!

Better get an FAA Certificate for this beast!

 

Hey Paul,

don't worry about the injector discrepancy. I really need to get to a dynojet for my own piece of mind on that subject.

re: iraq, pm me. A five minute phone conversation will increase your chances of survival ten fold.

Rich

 

Thanks John .

I agree with your fuel info. Something is odd with the results, 420 shouldnt correlate to almost 100% FID.

You are right on with regard to boost, it spiked then dropped down a bit and fluctuated as well. I am running an ancient profec b. Perhaps switching to something more up to date will help......

 

Pretty sure he was referring to pump gas levels. Steve has maintained for awhile now that at sub 17 psi level the two turbo setups are very comparable. Hell, the base map that he loaded into my car about 6 weeks ago was for a T78 car and up to one bar my FD felt smooth and powerful .

 

thanks man . That is setup parallel, thus lack of an immediate boost response. I agree, 16 psi should yield around 400 rwhp which is what I wanted all along on pump gas

 

yup, that is what the dynapack showed. I am interested to see if it is the same on the street.....next time I merge on the highway I will pay close attention to my boost gauge

 

thanks Adam, it's great to get an alternate real-world viewpoint on all of this .

 

Just for clarification, the y axis says flywheel torque, so the hp is being measured from at the flywheel...correct? If so, then RWHP would be less. I've never used this type dyno, so I was just wondering if that is what it means. That would put it back down into the 360 to 370 rwhp range on the 420 flywheel run. The dynopack the kind that to take your wheels off and hook it up? If so, they should be able to switch parameters and tell you what the rwhp was on those runs.

Am I off base with this?

Tim

 

Good catch Tim. I was wondering the same thing myself but this was such a crazy weekend the issue got lost in the shuffle (dynoing until 2am will do that do you, lol.)

I just got off the phone with Jay from Car Version 2, who is the owner and dyno operator. He assured me that the #s on the graph are rear wheel and not flywheel, and that they are comparable to a dynojet, if not a bit lower. As to why in the hell it says 'flywheel torque' rather than 'rearwheel torque' is some kind of a glitch in the program that they can't change . At any rate, the #s are all rear wheel, which is the important thing. Looks like close to 500 motor hp and 400 motor torque at 17.5 psi .

Rich

 

Dynapack's frequently read 10% less than Dynojets....although settings can be tweaked to eliminate this I'm sure. You could be making more than 420....

 

Glad to hear but also a little envious First we have beautiful car pictures in a thread, now 420+ rwhp, it's getting a little to much to handle. Try to spread the love out over a longer period of time so we can enjoy it more.

Tim

 

Hey, what can I say, lol. I've been waiting for this for about 3 years now. Trust me, LOTS of money, time, blood sweat and tears went into this car. I can tell you horror stories.....it's about time some good rotary karma came my way .

Rich

 

Yeah, good call, lol.

Also, I forgot to list the power fc in my mods list. can't forget about engine management, hehe.

 

LOL !!!!!!

 

this may be old news, but I thought it was worth posting (from Chuck Westbrook)

Note that the stock wiring suffers from voltage drop which limits capacity of stock or aftermarket pumps. Re-wiring the pump with heavy gage wire for full battery voltage will provide a huge improvement in fuel delivery. This trick to up the voltage can be taken to the extreme with aftermarket boost-a-pump electronics that further increase voltage under boost.

the wiring on these cars is total crap, let's face it

 

congrats Rich....what a beast!

 

Sorry, but I have a T88 FD which hits full boost that late.......T78's come on much earlier and are alot more efficient at lower boost. The Greddy T78 will make more hp all around and continue up to 30psi+.
Full boost @ ~5200 is "big-turbo" territory !!!
As far as the BNR's.....they are performing well *but* their only issue is those stock turbines.....I've been saying this since the 1st set of BNRs !!!! _ they could only flow X amount exhaust no matter how big those compressor/turbine wheels are before generating too much back pressure between motor and turbo where hp hits a brick wall.


Rich: If your fuel pump is not wired here's a little trick.

Run a thick gauge wire (10 gauge) to the pump from the battery fused. Have it power up thru a relay which gets its turn signal signal from the "speed relay" white/red wire. The fuel pump "speed" relay is in the relay box near the fans and latch. This white/red wire only comes on with load or 0psi +.
Therefore @ idle and cruising pump will only see ~9 volts and then battery voltage when under boost:-)

Do not use boost-a-pump with higher voltage on those Supra pumps....they will not last !!!

 

Great info JD, thanks a bunch!