vspecpgt

I was just checking out the spread sheet on tire sizing, and noticed that the TE series from volk doesn't seem to be very conducive the the FD.... Well, if you want the same rim width all the way around anyway.

I have seen plenty of rx-7s on the board with TE's, just wondering what size you all went with.

Thanks.

Heres a link to TE offsets: http://www.mackinindustries.com/md/r...e_spec.jpg.gif

cabaynes

iTrader: (4)

You could get away with 18x8.5 +40 front with a 245 tire, and 18x9.5 +40 rear with a 265 tire... may need to roll a tad if you lower the car to the 25" fender height.

vspecpgt

Thanks for the info...

Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but after reading the spread sheet in excel i think i found a mistake. Getting a lower offset will move the the wheel outward, while getting a higher offset would move the wheel inward correct? the spreadsheet says the opposite, but offset is the distance from the face of the wheel to the centerline right? Plus, when you plug in lower numbers, the values fot the distance between the wheel and fender get smaller.

cabaynes

iTrader: (4)

Getting a lower offset will move the the wheel outward, while getting a higher offset would move the wheel inward correct?

Yes

offset is the distance from the face of the wheel to the centerline right?

The offset is the distance in mm from the centerline of the wheel to the point at which it mounts to the hub, not the face. So increasing the offset would push the mounting face towards the outside of the wheel, allowing more of the wheel to sit inside the wheel well. While an negative offset would sink the mounting face inside the wheel towards the car and push the outside of the wheel out towards the fender lip...

Plus, when you plug in lower numbers, the values of the distance between the wheel and fender get smaller

That is correct. As you plug in a lower offset, the wheels outer edge gets pushed towards the outer fender lip because more of the wheel is being pushed outside of the mounting location.

Here is a basic image i just made:



The yellow line marks the center of the wheel... the red blob is the car and it's fender... haha

cabaynes

iTrader: (4)

by the way, that image is VERY basic... on an FD the space in the fenderwell is much more limited. The stock wheels come with a +50 offset, but when you drop down to even a +40 or +30 offset you are getting very close to the outside edge of the fender... The offsets I gave you in the first post about the TE37's will be right up against the outside edge of your fenders...

cabaynes

iTrader: (4)

Also as you can see, that's why people who love a lot of "lip" on their wheels like lower offsets, because as the offsets get lower, there is lot more wheel lip exposed as the face of the wheel is then sucked in farther... all the wheels you see with those extreme concaved faces all have very low offsets... not many of which fit the FD, as we are limited to somewhat "high" offsets, between +50 and +30ish, depending on wheel widths, tire sizes, etc...

vspecpgt

Yea, i was pretty sure about that. Someone should change that information on the excel spread sheet, so it doesn't confuse other people looking for wheels.

Spreadsheet states "A larger offset will move the outer face or edge of the wheel towards the outside of the car. A smaller offset will move it inward."

Again i was pretty sure, but maybe a mod can fix it for future reference.

Thanks again for taking to much time explaing though. i appreciate it!

EDIT: ok, i guess the above makes sense when talking about the face of the wheel, but it does not make sense when talking about the "edge" or lip of the wheel and since the spreadsheet is dealing with information about wheels hitting fenders... it doesn't make sense.

cabaynes

iTrader: (4)

You're right. The "face" will move out with a larger offset and in with a lower offset, but that is confusing since the "lip edge" of the wheel will move in with higher offset, and out towards the fender with lower offset

7syawedis

iTrader: (1)

im going to upgrade to some te37s sooner or later. the high offsets as with most wheels dont look as good. i like mine in the 10-15 range. thats what i use, but i run narrower tires than most.


great info, this knowledge is a must for anyone. its much easier to shop for wheels when you understand wheel fitment and know exactly what you are looking for.

and no one should be afraid to roll fenders to get good wheel fitment! bah! haha

Dorifto_PG

Not to nitpick, but the spreadsheet statement is a little too ambiguous and vague. The face of the wheel very rarely moves. The easiest way to explain it is to think about multi-piece wheels with lip. The lower offset wheel will have the face deep within the barrel and the outside lip very close to the fender. While if you switch to a high offset wheel, the spokes stay the same, the distance from face to mounting surface also stays the same, in essence the thickness of that center part of the wheel never changes, and the offset determines how far inward or outward the wheel lips are.

So the face of the wheel never moves inward or outward.


Now, to cover my *** before someone brings it up, many multi-piece wheels have different pad thickness to clear big brakes etc. (A-, B-, C-, O-, LO-, SuperLO- disk, etc)



Where the face could appear to move inward or outward based on offset is in a wheel where lower offsets are achieved just by adding more thickness to the back pad of the wheel. Basically as if you just welded on a (insert size) spacer to your back pad. With this type of design, the lower the offset, the more the face gets pushed out. So, opposite of what the spreadsheet says.


Next step, wheels with "sunk" or "concave" look: They are more concave with LESS offset, meaning the spokes curve more or at more angle and the "face" of the wheel seems to sink back away from the outer lip of the wheel. Think: low offset TE37s.

I have found that Volk has a number of "Faces", or spoke designs i should say, with varying levels of concavity. There is a high offset design, a couple of mid, and a low. For instance, the concave face of a 17x9 +0 TE37 is the same as the 17x9.5 +12 and the 17x10 +18, its just that in the design process, it has been "assigned" to a different width barrel. Then the prototype is cut and the mold made for that size/offset combo and subsequent flows of aluminum alloy are forged into that shape and we have our wheels.

To note, the 17x9 +15 and +22 are the same face, but it is not the same as the +0 and 9.5 +12. So on and so forth.


If you guys would really like, I could make a chart denoting what face is what on the TE37 offsets, but its pretty simple to figure it out. I find that it might be a good reference for people since a lot of people will see an 18x10.5 +15 and love the wheel, then order an 18x8.5 +40 per the spec sheet and open up the $2800 boxes to find out the wheel doesn't... quite..... look the same.


Edit: Grammar. Shut up.

cabaynes

iTrader: (4)

Not to nitpick, but you kind of just took my 4th post and made it 5 times as long

Zar

That tends to happen when you give MORE information on any given subject.

Grizzly

I am thinking of getting a set of Te37's in 18" for track days etc, i am planning of getting 18x9's all round, you guys seem to know your Volks so is there an Offset that would best suit me? (btw this is with stock bodied Fd)

Thanks.

txturbogs

Great info. Thanks for the pictures, they are worth more than words. I am a simple person, so pics help, LOL.