Racing Brake Rear upsize kit
09-29-11, 09:35 AM
#1
The Man
Thread Starter
Racing Brake Rear upsize kit
Anyone have experience with the racing Brake 12.7" rotor and bracket setup offered by RB? I track my car regularly and had a Pettit BBK on my old FD, but was wondering if anyone has positive feedback on braking performance of a stock setup with the larger rear RB offering. I don't have the funds for a full front upgrade right now, but am considering putting this setup on my track FD. Any experience with the stock fronts with upgraded race compound pads and rotors and this RB kit in rear? Thanks in advance.
Art
Art
09-30-11, 12:45 AM
#2
Radioactive Rotary Rocket
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Here be the RX7 thread on the racing brake forum. It's got most of what you want, but from 2006. Howard Coleman started it:
http://forums.racingbrake.com/showthread.php?t=118
http://forums.racingbrake.com/showthread.php?t=118
10-02-11, 11:55 PM
#4
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Here's a shot of the rear installed, my album has a bunch of comparison pics of the RB front setup as well:
https://www.rx7club.com/album.php?al...0&ref=gnr-next
https://www.rx7club.com/album.php?al...0&ref=gnr-next
10-03-11, 09:35 AM
#5
Not sure what you hope to achieve with stock fronts / upgraded rears. In a track car upgraded front brakes are for heat management and upgrading rears (at least on an FD) is kinda pointless unless you need to fix the balance from doing the front kit. Get track pads at all 4 corners and good ducting to the front brakes and that will take you reasonably far, untill you have a power and significant tire upgrade.
10-03-11, 12:32 PM
#6
FWIW, the RS/RZ brakes do the same thing as the racing brakes... they pull the pad farther out to provide more torque on the rotor. The only difference is the RS/RZ caliper extension is built in to the caliper and the racing brake uses a bracket to pull it farther out which introduces another potential point of failure(although I've never seen it fail). The other difference is the rotors, which I'm not going to get into.
If you are on a budget, I think you will be fine with aggressive pads and actual brake ducting. I know many FD track guys that have had success with stock brakes that are ducted, fresh fluid(ate, motul, etc), and aggressive pads. I use to crack rear rotors every few weekends, but they were like $20 each at NAPA.
If you are on a budget, I think you will be fine with aggressive pads and actual brake ducting. I know many FD track guys that have had success with stock brakes that are ducted, fresh fluid(ate, motul, etc), and aggressive pads. I use to crack rear rotors every few weekends, but they were like $20 each at NAPA.
10-03-11, 03:08 PM
#7
FWIW, the RB really is the same as the 99/RZ, because it's not an extension bracket, but actually an extended caliper half (they are two piece floating calipers). The difference is you get a 2-piece rotor, and don't have to buy the whole caliper, just the bracket half (that has no piston or mechanical parts)
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10-03-11, 03:08 PM
#8
Art, I would save your doe for now. Just run some track only pads (with your normal track brake fluid) and you'll be fine for Heartland. I was using the N-Tech pads but I don't think Nick is making them any longer. There are some others which will work just as well. I run the Carbotech XP11's on the BMW when I track it and thinking of switching over to Carbotech for the RX7. They don't have the same bite as the N-Tech's on the RX7, but they handle the heat just fine.
When you have the cash, just go back to your old brake setup which worked so well for all those years.
When you have the cash, just go back to your old brake setup which worked so well for all those years.
10-10-11, 10:50 AM
#10
The Man
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, just for reference I have had a track FD for over 12 years, I just sold it 2 years ago in a messy divorce and have started over with a much less track prepped FD. I am on Hawk Gold compound(Newer version and name for the old HT-10 compound) front pads and slotted/cryo'd rotors with 3" ducts and hosing to the rotor and running Hawk Blues out back, just a little over budget for now, so I was looking for track experience with the bigger rear setup. I didn't have the dough for a full front kit as I used to run Pettit's Outlaw kit which is phenomenal....IN MY OPINION, don't start flaming if you don't like it, I never had one issue with the setup and never ever faded on me. I am looking to do the same kit again, although may help Cam set up a floating front rotor design to improve on it.
10-10-11, 10:59 AM
#11
Good deal man. No flaming for someone stating their experience on track 
FYI though, SHPNOUT is currently selling his outlaw brake set up off his race FD(the ex pettit race car). Browse the FS forum. He's been trying to sell them for a while and sure there is a little wiggle room on the price.
FYI though, SHPNOUT is currently selling his outlaw brake set up off his race FD(the ex pettit race car). Browse the FS forum. He's been trying to sell them for a while and sure there is a little wiggle room on the price.
10-10-11, 06:59 PM
#12
The Man
Thread Starter
Sweet, thanks for the tip! I have shyed away from many technical discussions the last few years because there are MANY people on here that have opinions on quality/performance of certain parts yet have no actual racing or track experience to back up said discussion. So if I post something, I always cringe, expecting flaming to ensue. I have extensive track experience, but have never upgraded the rear brakes as I've never felt the need previously. My new FD has much more power and thus is far underbraked for my skill. So I'll need to keep the reigns in this weekend.
Art
Art
10-10-11, 10:27 PM
#13
No flames here, but here is my experiance with stock brakes. For what its worth my track experiance is exclusivly with stock brakes, Ive gone through 5 years on the road course with them...
Basically I have ran the car anywhere from 330-400whp on track and have ran 225 streets tires, 245 victoracers, 245 BFG R1's, 245 v710's, and 275 kumho v710's. Ran hawk blues, ht10's, and DTC60 pads. No ducting, 2" ducts, and 3" ducts.
This past seasons setup was at 330whp and 275 v710's with 3" ducts and DTC60's. I run on 2 tracks and long track and a kart track, on the kart track I would overheat the brakes easily, pad fade and boiled wilwood 600+ fluid. Long track gives plenty of cooling, they would get hot enough to get past the sweet spot of the DTC-60's but I was never able to totally cook them.
The switch to the 275 V710's (from 245 v710's) was the point that I truly felt I was pushing the brakes past the limit. Before that I would change rotors with the pads, after the switch I would crack rotors before every set of pads wore out. I have never had problems with the rear getting too hot, bled them twice this past season as opposed to every after every event for the fronts.
When I ran at 400whp the brakes just didnt feel like "enough", only ran 1/2 season at that much power several years back, the car has just felt better to me with less power. In all honesty it was probably to much power for my skill level at the time and then I got used to 330whp and got the car reliable there so didnt change it.
I really liked the feel of hawk blues but they would fade easy and killed rotors to quick.
If I was content running a harder tire, say a nitto NT01, I could probalby make the stock brakes work very well for up to ~400whp. Hope that helps.
Basically I have ran the car anywhere from 330-400whp on track and have ran 225 streets tires, 245 victoracers, 245 BFG R1's, 245 v710's, and 275 kumho v710's. Ran hawk blues, ht10's, and DTC60 pads. No ducting, 2" ducts, and 3" ducts.
This past seasons setup was at 330whp and 275 v710's with 3" ducts and DTC60's. I run on 2 tracks and long track and a kart track, on the kart track I would overheat the brakes easily, pad fade and boiled wilwood 600+ fluid. Long track gives plenty of cooling, they would get hot enough to get past the sweet spot of the DTC-60's but I was never able to totally cook them.
The switch to the 275 V710's (from 245 v710's) was the point that I truly felt I was pushing the brakes past the limit. Before that I would change rotors with the pads, after the switch I would crack rotors before every set of pads wore out. I have never had problems with the rear getting too hot, bled them twice this past season as opposed to every after every event for the fronts.
When I ran at 400whp the brakes just didnt feel like "enough", only ran 1/2 season at that much power several years back, the car has just felt better to me with less power. In all honesty it was probably to much power for my skill level at the time and then I got used to 330whp and got the car reliable there so didnt change it.
I really liked the feel of hawk blues but they would fade easy and killed rotors to quick.
If I was content running a harder tire, say a nitto NT01, I could probalby make the stock brakes work very well for up to ~400whp. Hope that helps.
10-10-11, 11:19 PM
#14
The Man
Thread Starter
Yes Neal, that does help. I have the boost set at about 12psi, which should be around 330hp with the mods done. I've ducted the rotors, and I too have cracked rear rotors before, although the rotors were brand new and I didn't take time to bed them in and heat cycle them before beating them to death with Blues! They grabbed well for a while anyway! Lol! The track I am running is a relatively long straight track, many turns but several sweepers and 4 straights of varying lengths for a total of 2.3miles/lap. I am not out to win any races, just put some hot laps on this new setup and starting over with my skill level is tough to gauge what I should expect. I don't ever remember the stock brakes inspiring confidence though, when I was new to the track, so I'll take it slow and ease into it. I'm running BFG R1's that are heat cycled and 245/45/16's with 1/2" spacers in rear to push the tracking out a bit. I am running the Trak Pro race coilovers at 8 rebound at front and 5 rear. At least that's where I'll start. Thanks guys for all the info and input, I know we have many seasoned racers and track ****** here so I wanted some other opinions. I'll be upgrading to the Pettit Outlaw kit again soon, and probably add the RB rears unless someone can tell me where to get hold of a set of RZ/99 spec rears out there.
Art
Art
10-11-11, 01:23 AM
#16
RTS3GEN, just a heads up in case you ever thought about the Stoptech's, this vendor here on the forum has a KILLER special deal on them. https://www.rx7club.com/works-concepts-259/stoptech-bbk-sale-968798/
I personally run the old M2 AP kit with PF01 pads up front and DTC60 with stock calipers in the rear and feel like I need more rear... will be trying out a proportioning valve maybe to dial down the front to balance...I was considering switching to Stoptech cause they were actually designed for the FD.
I personally run the old M2 AP kit with PF01 pads up front and DTC60 with stock calipers in the rear and feel like I need more rear... will be trying out a proportioning valve maybe to dial down the front to balance...I was considering switching to Stoptech cause they were actually designed for the FD.
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