M104-AMG

iTrader: (8)

I purchased some cheapo RX7 front rotors ($27 each) vs. Brembos ($71 each), and with Carbotech XP9 they lasted four(4) 2-day track days (8-days total) in my 1993 Mazda RX7 twin-turbo @ Roebling Road with speeds upto 150 MPH down the front straight, before my rotors got warped and had very little cracks developing, which is about a year of track days for me.

Is there really a difference on stock-sized after-market rotors than original equipment (O.E.) ?

Are the Brembos really superior to my OPPARTS $27 rotors ?

How about rotors from www.racingbrake.com that supposedly use superior material, directional curved vanes, and heat treating (see below) ?

Are they really that much better, esp. for $124/each ?

TIA,
:-) neil

BTW: I have a seperate set of rotors for track-days vs. street
Taken from (http://www.racingbrake.com/main/stoc...eplacement.asp):
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Material
Our rotors are made of material upgraded from the OE standard of SAE J431 Class G3000 (30,000 psi in tensile strength, 187-241 in Brinell hardness). More important is our know-how and experience over decades in cast iron metallurgy. All rotors may appear the same but under a microscope there is a world of difference in metallurgical structure, which per ASTM A-247 the type (shape) of graphite shall be VII or flake graphite with “A” type uniform distribution and random orientation, and graphite size.

These are published data but achieving the optimal casting requires years’ of metallurgical experience and precise control during casting process. Carbon (graphite) contents and its structure dictate the mechanical property of the cast iron more so for a brake rotor which is subject to sudden and extreme heat load cycles during a car stopping without warping or cracking and more resistant to wear.

Heat Treatment
Severe brake duty cycles require not only good material but need proper heat-treatment to relieve the residual stress and further enhance the microstructure uniformity. Over the years, we have developed a proprietary process in temperature and time control to achieve optimal result.
=========

Black91n/a

While name brand or the Racing Brake rotors might be better, the price difference will never be worth it. The Racing Brake ones would have to last mroe than 4x as long, and the Brembos more than 2x as long. I highly doubt they will. Just buy lots of cheap rotors and replace them when they need to be replaced. Warped rotors can be fixed with turning, but craced rotors are garbage.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

You can try DEDICATED brake ducts in the front (not the silly R1 things) to keep them cooler, but the bottom line is the stock rotors are a little small for a car with a significant horsepower bump and running R-compounds.

aznpoopy

crappy autozone/pepboys/etc. blank rotors are fine.

plenty of people run them hard for hpde and what not for many different cars. no cracks, etc.

Sled Driver

iTrader: (9)

I purchased a set of slotted rotors from StopTech for track use. Due to the nature of the stock size it was the best ones they offered & I paid dearly for them.

I cracked all 4 rotors after 2 track events (less than 2 months old).

The combination of R compound tires & race pads were too much for them.

I called & complained, but was told any warranty was void after track use. I understood this, but wanted some compensation on another set. They offered 10% off another $575 set of rotors. Gee, thanks

True.............I tried the expensive rotors, they don't last any longer.

I originally had drilled Brembos. They lasted 4 years on the street. Then after one season on the track with progressive upgrades. First R compound tires, then race pads, they cracked.

As far as cooling ducts, I cracked my rear rotors to. Anyone make ducts for the rear???

If you get hooked on track days you'll be switching tires & pads (& possibly rotors) for each event. The faster you go the more it will cost.

In frustration I ended up purchasing the RS brakes. Uses the same pads, but with larger thicker front rotors & larger rear rotors. I have money to burn.............

Black91n/a

That's a good point that I forgot to mention, when using race pads, you really should change the rotors too, as you won't have to re-bed the pads every time, leading to longer pad life, and the race pads won't work as well on rotors with a street pad transfer layer on them.

So you'll get better performance and longer life with dedicated track rotors, and you'll always have a spare set of rotors if you should crack one at the track.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Actually, its the opposite. Race pads are usually so abrasive that they can clean off street pad wear in just a few good stops. Since street pads aren't as aggressive, they sometimes aren't able to clean off the race pad layer.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Yup... the trick is to get 'em off after your last session and not drive around anyplace on em... Track pads usually polish the disks up nicely when hot, but leave a bunch of crap on that won't come off until your next event if you street-drive them.

ARD T2

iTrader: (22)

Either way I can offer you guys a spanking deal on Slotted Rotors from racingbrake or I can set you up with a spanking deal on the two piece rotors.

That might change this "price issue' and justify them.

Looking at around $395.00 plus shipping and/or sales tax for a SET OF FOUR slotted rotors.

NOTE The fronts have curved vanes, intended for better heat dissipation.

This is a club sponsorship deal until Xmas. it has been posted in our subforum as a package deal. This price nets you about $98/rotor plus shipping.

Keep in mind they are slotted so compare apples to apples.

i can get cheap OEM replacement rotors all day as well. It's amazing how cheap they are.

NOW the Zeal rotors by Endless do use a different metal compound made to withstand track abuse. Issue is they are very costly. From what I've read and see molecular blowups of it's material, they have increased the lead content in the rotor. This has made the rotor denser and is supposed to alleviate some of these warping and cracking issues. Downside, they are heavier. Hope that makes sense to some of you more hardcore guys. Regardless i don't expect anyone to fork the money out for those rotors.

Rishie

M104-AMG

iTrader: (8)

FWIW, I've been told by a couple of different racing brake-pad manufacturers that the "Racing Brake" brand of rotors while made of different materials and chemicals, that they don't respond well to most brake pads.

They are recommending just the OE or OEM brake rotors.

:-) neil

ARD T2

iTrader: (22)

I'd make sure we check these resources with unbiased parties. How about end users with some input on this. I haven't heard any of these issues before.

Thanks, Rishie

M104-AMG

iTrader: (8)

Since I've been using the Racing Brake setup front & rear since 2009, I can attest that at least the Hawk DTC-70 (front) and DTC-60 (rear) have been working flawlessly at various track on the East coast (Roebling, CMP, VIR, Grand Prize of America).

Glad I went with them.

:-) neil