Racing Brake Front BBK Advisory
09-27-10, 05:48 PM
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Eye In The Sky
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Racing Brake Front BBK Advisory
You should periodically check the torque on the two hex head bolts used to attach the calipers to the brackets. Torque was given as 36-37 ft lbs.
As you know they were coated with dried loctite. Ater exposure to heat and pressure, it must thin and spread out causing the torque to be reduced.
Twice I checked mine and they were a little loose.
Has any one else checked theirs?
As you know they were coated with dried loctite. Ater exposure to heat and pressure, it must thin and spread out causing the torque to be reduced.
Twice I checked mine and they were a little loose.
Has any one else checked theirs?
09-27-10, 07:52 PM
#3
You should periodically check the torque on the two hex head bolts used to attach the calipers to the brackets. Torque was given as 36-37 ft lbs.
As you know they were coated with dried loctite. Ater exposure to heat and pressure, it must thin and spread out causing the torque to be reduced.
Twice I checked mine and they were a little loose.
Has any one else checked theirs?
As you know they were coated with dried loctite. Ater exposure to heat and pressure, it must thin and spread out causing the torque to be reduced.
Twice I checked mine and they were a little loose.
Has any one else checked theirs?
09-29-10, 11:11 PM
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Eye In The Sky
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If the fasteners were originally bare and dry, and I was using my own wet loctite, maybe once after a little use.
But these fasteners had dry loctite on them which was a first for me. They only tightened about 1/4 turn during the retorque testing the first time. On the second test, a couple did not move at all and the other two moved some.
But these fasteners had dry loctite on them which was a first for me. They only tightened about 1/4 turn during the retorque testing the first time. On the second test, a couple did not move at all and the other two moved some.
09-30-10, 04:49 PM
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depends. we've endurance raced the same car for 3 years, and the racing bit does not apply so much as the running the same car long term part. we do rebuild the suspension every season, and then it gets nut and bolt checked a couple times after that
basically if you check the same car over and over, you'll see that some things require more attention than others.
for example we know to check the lug nuts every pitstop, because if one loosens it'll start snapping wheel studs.
in theory you'd write this down. or make a "pre flight" list. we didn't really write anything down, but we've rebuilt the damn car so many times we just know what to do when it comes off the trailer
basically if you check the same car over and over, you'll see that some things require more attention than others.
for example we know to check the lug nuts every pitstop, because if one loosens it'll start snapping wheel studs.
in theory you'd write this down. or make a "pre flight" list. we didn't really write anything down, but we've rebuilt the damn car so many times we just know what to do when it comes off the trailer
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09-30-10, 07:18 PM
#9
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^^I don't think there's any need to replace the bolts. I was able to get maybe 1/8th turn out of each bolt by really cranking down on them. After a few years, three DGRR events, and three track events, mine were still tight enough for my peace of mind.
Btw, thanks for posting this up Chuck. A good reminder to not take stuff like this for granted, esp if the braking system has been heat cycled via track use.
Btw, thanks for posting this up Chuck. A good reminder to not take stuff like this for granted, esp if the braking system has been heat cycled via track use.
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