Pettit Racing Trak Pro Coilover Kit
#351
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (9)
What's the big deal with leaving the brake line loose? If it's rubs, wrap it in a few inches of rubber hose.
For the rear ride height, you should be able to go lower if you lower the spring perch. It may have a little slack at full extension, but that's no big deal. "Pre load" isn't really a necessary adjustment.
For the rear ride height, you should be able to go lower if you lower the spring perch. It may have a little slack at full extension, but that's no big deal. "Pre load" isn't really a necessary adjustment.
Last edited by ptrhahn; 12-30-10 at 08:50 AM.
#353
Rotary Freak
Originally Posted by ptrhahn
What's the big deal with leaving the brake line loose? If it's rubs, wrap it in a few inches of rubber hose.
I've seen some nice clamp on ones advertised somewhere - and of course, can't find them now I need them too - for a different suspension.
#355
T O R Q U E!
iTrader: (24)
What's the big deal with leaving the brake line loose? If it's rubs, wrap it in a few inches of rubber hose.
For the rear ride height, you should be able to go lower if you lower the spring perch. It may have a little slack at full extension, but that's no big deal. "Pre load" isn't really a necessary adjustment.
For the rear ride height, you should be able to go lower if you lower the spring perch. It may have a little slack at full extension, but that's no big deal. "Pre load" isn't really a necessary adjustment.
And about lowering the spring perch and having slack at full extension, you NEVER want that to happen. What do you think happens when the suspension is unloaded? The spring will vibrate in place and bang against the shock tower mount and/or lower spring perch, since it has room to extend, that is very dangerous and will destabilize the hell out of your rear end... (EDIT) not to mention rattling.
#359
digging for gasoline
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: In a van down by the river
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My experience so far.
1. Front brake bracket.
2. Rear ride height is definitely a problem. I think the picture should be able to tell why. The bottom shock mount (for ride height) is already all the way up and has no more room since the spring seat is there.
-I already preloaded the sprint 0.5" to try to get more room but I feel that it too much stress on the shock when there is no load. That about 300lbf pushing outward on the shock body when the car is lifted. With this setup i'm about 26" to top of fender(may differ on wheel/tire setup)
-Another solution would be to remove the lower fatter lock for the lower shock mount this would gain about ~1" of ride height but then it would not be a ride height Independence coil-overs.
3. Weight. I dont know if anybody notice they weight quite a bit. I dont have the exact number but they weight more than the koni setup I have and Tein coil-overs.
4. Function - cant speak much since no track time in this cold winter. But on the street so far so smooth.
1. Front brake bracket.
2. Rear ride height is definitely a problem. I think the picture should be able to tell why. The bottom shock mount (for ride height) is already all the way up and has no more room since the spring seat is there.
-I already preloaded the sprint 0.5" to try to get more room but I feel that it too much stress on the shock when there is no load. That about 300lbf pushing outward on the shock body when the car is lifted. With this setup i'm about 26" to top of fender(may differ on wheel/tire setup)
-Another solution would be to remove the lower fatter lock for the lower shock mount this would gain about ~1" of ride height but then it would not be a ride height Independence coil-overs.
3. Weight. I dont know if anybody notice they weight quite a bit. I dont have the exact number but they weight more than the koni setup I have and Tein coil-overs.
4. Function - cant speak much since no track time in this cold winter. But on the street so far so smooth.
#360
Mission Impossible
iTrader: (3)
2. Rear ride height is definitely a problem. I think the picture should be able to tell why. The bottom shock mount (for ride height) is already all the way up and has no more room since the spring seat is there.
-I already preloaded the sprint 0.5" to try to get more room but I feel that it too much stress on the shock when there is no load. That about 300lbf pushing outward on the shock body when the car is lifted. With this setup i'm about 26" to top of fender(may differ on wheel/tire setup)
-Another solution would be to remove the lower fatter lock for the lower shock mount this would gain about ~1" of ride height but then it would not be a ride height Independence coil-overs.
3. Weight. I dont know if anybody notice they weight quite a bit. I dont have the exact number but they weight more than the koni setup I have and Tein coil-overs.
It said 61lbs on the UPS form. I don't know how much other coilovers weigh to compare but Pettit says lightweight billet aluminum has been used to save weight.
And like another member here, did you also have to use washers for rear lower mounting point? It's been said that there is a gap in rear lower mounting point and tightening it as it is would put stress or bend the mounting part of the coilover.
And finally please read the manual next time cause they shouldn't be installed by an unprofessional person like you
#361
digging for gasoline
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: In a van down by the river
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If it doesn't go as low as one finger above the tyre, I might go mental and cut one coil of the springs
It said 61lbs on the UPS form. I don't know how much other coilovers weigh to compare but Pettit says lightweight billet aluminum has been used to save weight.
And like another member here, did you also have to use washers for rear lower mounting point? It's been said that there is a gap in rear lower mounting point and tightening it as it is would put stress or bend the mounting part of the coilover.
And finally please read the manual next time cause they shouldn't be installed by an unprofessional person like you
It said 61lbs on the UPS form. I don't know how much other coilovers weigh to compare but Pettit says lightweight billet aluminum has been used to save weight.
And like another member here, did you also have to use washers for rear lower mounting point? It's been said that there is a gap in rear lower mounting point and tightening it as it is would put stress or bend the mounting part of the coilover.
And finally please read the manual next time cause they shouldn't be installed by an unprofessional person like you
A different set of spring should address all but the bracket problem.
If you run 1" shorter spring then you can bring the seat up which allow you Yo go lower.
Also shorter spring is lighter and remove those unsprung mass.
Plus hypercoil and swift springs are very light and cOnsistant.
Yes I did notice a gap on the rear shock mOunt. A washer should address that.
Lastly mine came with no instruction plus who owns an fd that is professional!?!
#368
digging for gasoline
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: In a van down by the river
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I compress/preload the spring to make it seems as if the spring is shorter therefore give me more threads on the shock body to allow the lower shock mount to move up.
#371
Radioactive Rotary Rocket
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#372
digging for gasoline
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: In a van down by the river
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hmmm. Then it must be an optical illusions. I was able to lower the rear .5" more doing so.
Yes preloading alone will actually raise the car since the it increases the initial force require to compress the spring. But the space gained from preloading allows me to move the mount upward which lowers the car.
But since the spring rate is so high and the inconsistent in linearity of a spring in it's free length, minimal height was gained from preloading. This allow the overall ride height to drop by preloading then shifting the shock mount up. Now keep in mind that I performed this after allowing the spring to sag and settle so it is not part of the equation.
So for those who are considering these TrakPro but wants a fairly lower ride height, I suggest that you have some budget set aside to achieve lower ride height in a proper way=Shorter springs.
#373
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (3)
ohh yah if the springs arent truely linear (aka shitty springs), there might well be a difference. do yourself a favor and get some proper springs, an inch shorter than current. hyperco and eibach are the easiest to find used at ~80/pair, swifts tend to be more expensive. dont waste your money on any other brand
#375
digging for gasoline
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: In a van down by the river
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am going to take a wild guess without going to the car to measure it.
ID=65mm or 2.5" and Length is 6" (this is a guess)
I recommend Hypercoil(~$80each) or Swift(~$100each)
http://www.hypercoils.com/Catalog.aspx
http://www.swiftsprings.com/products...r_springs.html