R_1

iTrader: (19)

Read your springs, it’s a tapered spring. My front competitions read, 190mm = about 7.5” / 70mm = about 2.75” / 60mm = about 2.36” x 015 spring rate. Small taper to the bottom.

If we are all concerned about the loose brake lines we could always measure the OD of the lower shock tube and find a similar OD of anther mfg. (Ohlins) coilover lower tube and order the separate brake line holders that simply clamp on by 1 bolt. We just need the P/N and we could all order away. Tomorrow I’ll measure my comps that are sitting in the box and will post the OD.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

I don't know if anyone makes 2.75" to 2.36" tapered race springs, but you could probably get away with standard 2.5" diameter, 7" long race springs. Bear in mind that the distance you shorten at the shock ends up being almost double in actual ride height.

I'm also a little skeptical on the whole "loose" brake line issue. None of the high end coilovers come with these clamps, including my JRZs, and I've never heard of anyone damaging the lines from flex.

R_1

iTrader: (19)

Right, It doesn’t bother me if they are "loose" it’s a braided line, it’s not going anywhere. Just throwing out possible suggestions. If rubbing against the coilover is the issue slit a piece of 5/16 hose over it.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Right. Apparently though, there's some other issue with line fatigue based on the wheel turning... though as I say, I'm skeptical because the liner will still move and there's plenty of high-end coilover setups out there without the bracket and I've never heard of the issue. I'm wondering if it's something translated from other cars?

Meiogirl

iTrader: (2)

cool, I am curious about this.
aren't you guys concerned about any sort of debris with loose lines?

I'm not the best driver by any means. I picture a stick, rock, etc... getting in there from going off the track and pulling out a brake line because of the lack of tension. I had also though about zip ties, but this seems a bit hoopty and a band aid rather than solution.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Everybody, the line is still "loose" even with the center clip... it has to be to in order to account for both suspension movement and the wheels turning.

The fitting in the middle of the brake line that would clip to the shock actually slides along the line, so all it's really doing is keeping things tidy, but there isn't enough line to flop all around... what you really want to do is keep the braided line from rubbing on the shock body/threads, as they can be very abrasive.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Go ahead, if your fine with spending $1300+ for a set of coilovers for a streeted car and having to rig some rubber hose over the lines and let them droop and flop. That when it could have/should have been corrected in manufacturing. My feeling is that support is there for a reason. All the other aftermarket manufactures provde it...even my ancient GABs have the bracket. My stainless lines are pretty stiff, but there has to be extra stress from letting them flop at the fittings...and that can't be good.
From the sound of it, these Trak Pros are nice coilovers and I'm in the market. But if Pettit wants me to buy them, let them get it corrected.

Meiogirl

iTrader: (2)

I would assume everyone talking in this thread has altered their own suspension in some way. of course the line is still loose but its being controlled.

I'm not an engineer so I have to describe in simpler terms. I have a dog on a leash, if I let him run to the end of it and he takes off he's is gonna snap that leash out of my hands. If I am holding it at some point in the center, he won't.

I do not understand all the physics in this but of course having certain points on the brake line being controlled will exponentially hinder them from braking loose.

I can only assume race cars may not because, like engines, they are used to replacing things many times over. I do not want to do this.

I understand that several of you think its not a big deal in theory. I can't say whether my opinion is overly safe or not, but safety is the issue and when it comes down to it, rather be safe than sorry.

I do have a set of these in my home, so I have an investment in these bad boys and would love to get them put on my car properly. I would like it if a solution could be found out, so if someone has one, please do not belittle it so they will come back and post an answer.

wickedrx7

iTrader: (14)

I think everyone is WAY over dramatizing this. When researching suspension, this is not one of the criteria that most people are going to be concerned with. It good to know but if YOU don't want to buy them because of this, then don't buy them. If you are like me, you will throw some rubber hose and it and forget it.

Time to move on and drop the "omg there is no brake line mount".

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Exactly! As for me, look at my sig! I think I could handle some measly brakes lines mounting.

ALPSTA

iTrader: (3)

There was a thread about brake lines and I think it was in this forum. One of the arguments was that braided brake lines are not suitable for streetcars/dd as their longevity/reliability is not like oem rubber hoses. Like Meiogirl said, when race teams use these parts they replace them once in a while. I guess same thing can be said about coilovers but in brake line discussion there were some cases mentioned where braided lines failed at the ends/fittings and it was mentioned that the ends were their weak spot, prone to fail. I'm not saying this would be the case here but just wondering if having no bracket would contribute to such problem or speed up the process.

GodSquadMandrake

The last thing you want is for your brake line to pop off and the pedal to go to the floor when you're coming in hot and braking for a corner. That would turn my face white and my pants brown. So no doubt it's worth checking and making sure. I'd be interested in hearing what Pettit racing did for theirs.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

As someone said above, I think everyone is way over-dramatizing.

I picked up a set of JRZ's, and they (as well as any of the high end stuff like Moton, Penske) aren't going to have the brackets like a stock replacement shock. People have been running these for years without catastrophic brake failure... the likelihood that a line would just pop off is nil.

I do understand the argument that repeated motion of braided lines could weaken and fray them, leading to a cut line, but you'd have to flex them past their normal range of motion... this in fact happened to one of the braided lines on my JRZ remote canisters, but not from driving—from being completely crimped over from shrink-wrapping during shipping.

Having just done the install, there isn't a ton of slack (or weight) on the brake line that would ever likely crimp it... but, if you're really concerned it shouldn't be difficult to support with a tie wrap or something for a little extra peace of mind. I'd hardly make it a decision point for which coilovers you buy.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

For track and autocross purposes with lots of quick steering you will put less stress on the line fittings with the line hanging free than if the line was secured. Get some rubber and wrap the section of the line that will come into contact with the shock and zip tie the rubber wrap. Have someone turn the steering wheel lock to lock while you view the line and see if the length etc... is good. More problematic is a line that's too short or too long.

If you're still concerned secure the line to the shock with a heavy duty tie wrap/zip tie.

JhnRx7

iTrader: (12)

Alot of other high end coilover brands do not have integrated mounting tabs. They simply come with a tab welded to a worm clamp. If you are that concerned about it start calling around to some manufactures to see if you can get a pair.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Where are these from?

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

The Cusco Zero series uses that method of mounting, not sure what those particular ones came from.

JhnRx7

iTrader: (12)

That was a random picture. Here is a set from Ohlins... This is a common solution to brake line mounting done by many manufactures.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Those clamp/brackets are the satisfactory solution I asked about earlier in the thread. Thanks.

Now back to the 'OMG I just love these coilovers they are the shiz' .

Meiogirl

iTrader: (2)

+1

will be posting before and after pics once i find these parts. i measured my car yesterday and its sitting about 24.25 in the front and 25 in the rear. the front has been too low for me as it is so i can't wait to see the newer results.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

^ Those above bands are exactly what I was thinking of fabing. Now I don't need too!

wickedrx7

iTrader: (14)

This is sooo off subject but I just can't stand all the mis-information that I hear. The reason that SS brake lines WERE not DOT approved is because over time, dirt and grim will get in between the SS braids and rubber and wear the rubber down possibly causing failures. This has been solved by most manufacturers with a thin/clear plastic coating over the SS. The reason that racers never worried about this is because we tend to check/maintain our vehicles much more stringently. I inspect my brake system every time I have my wheels off and have replaced SS lines after 5 years of use.

And to further point out how ridicules this brake line thing is, the thought that an aluminum shock body would wear through a SS brake line is absolutely absurd.

ALPSTA

iTrader: (3)

I wasn't spreading misinformation, I was just raising a question. I can try to dig up the old thread if you like. Plus the discussion there was about the ends not the body of the brake line. Oem is much thicker and softer and ss ones are much thinner and harder, maybe this has something to do with their tolerance to movement/flex/tension. Anyway no need to split hairs, obviously having no clamp or using a zip tie is not an issue so it's ok.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I'm aware of why the stainless lines of the past weren't DOT...and why mine are. I personally didn't address it because I didn't want to side-track things further.

And I never suggested that the shock body would wear the line through. May have missed it somewhere in this thread, but I'm not sure anyone did.
Regardless the questions raised weren't ridiculous. What's ridiculous is posting a huge picture of a zip-tie as a contribution to the thread.
At any rate I'm looking at these for a streeted car. I get under it a couple of times a month and check things... not a couple of times a week. And shouldn't have to replace lines every 5 yrs.
To a certain extent it seems like Pettit is asking us to pay for a restaurant steak dinner and bring our own silverware. We can make our own choice to do so I guess (and I probably will), hoping the steak is really that good.