Those won't work... If you had 5mm spacers it would though, because your +42mm would become +37mm and wouldn't rub.. you might even be able to get away with 235 up front. The rears too would need 5mm spacers and would then fit.

 

OK...... Put the car up on the Alignment rack and took a SERIOUS look at the front suspension.....

With stock rims and stock tires that measure 8.2 inches in section with.... you have about 13MM to go until you start hitting the spring base and spring....... the 18x7.5 +38 with 225/40/18's adds 11MM to the stock inside measurement..... TOOO Cluse for my taste....

I checked out 215/40/18 tires wich will work perfect, however the selection in that tire size is moronic and the reviews for the Dunlops in that size were abysmal...

NOW..... there is more selection with a 215/35/18..... Thats an option on the fronts... the Kumho MX's have a section width of 8.7 as measured on a 7.5 inch wheel..... Thats 8 mm wider per side than the stock tire with the +38 mm offset on the wheels,,, that's 6mm more towards the shock than stock.... I can live iwth that!!!!!! They have a total height of 23.9, which is about -3.75% smaller than stock, but since its the fronts.... I can deal with that as well.


PS Here's the wheels

 

Too much.... and... don't run spacers... they are not legal in most states and they really are not safe, especially with the stock lugs.. think about it... the studs were designed to have the wheel bolted up right to the hub, but adding 5mm spacers, you've really bolted up the wheel 5mm AWAY from the seat point of the stud and the hub.... added a lot of stress to the studs. If the spacer has any play in the stud holes what so ever... you're asking for trouble....

There was a picture on the forum about a year back of a guys FC where he ran spacers and the friggin studs broke off at the track when he slammed second... not a pretty sight.

Its a PITA to find wheels that work... especially if you want a staggered set, I know, i've been searchin for years.... but they are out there!!

 

There is nothing wrong with running spacers. The Wheel does not bolt up to the hub! It bolts up against the brake rotor's hat. The brake rotor's hat essentially acts as a spacer btween the wheel and the hub already.

The studs DO NOT support the lateral forces, or the orthogonal forces of supporting the car's weight and the forces reacted by the suspension. The studs exist to give a tension force such that the back of the wheel and the brake rotor's hat are contacted together with a clamping force to produce a static friction between the brake and the wheel.

It is this friction force which resists the lateral, orthonal and rotational force of the wheel.

The spacer acts as a giant washer between the back of the wheel and the brake rotor. What people don't realize is that YOU NEED longer studs with spacers. For any nut/bolt configuration there should be atleast two threads showing after the correct torque is applied to the nut. Obviously you can not see that with stock lug nuts since they are closed faced. But the rule still applies. If you are only torquing the nut on a portion of the stud obviously if there are not enough treads, it will not be strong enough to apply the correct force to create the frictional/clamp force between the brake rotor's hat and wheel OR brake rotor hat, spacer, and wheel.

As for hubcentric wheels, the same argument applies. Because the hub's centre does not react loads. If you were so inclinded, you can get a feeler gauge and stick it inbetween the hub's centre and your wheels's centre on the stock wheels. Hubcentric wheels only exist to aid installation of the wheel back onto the car because you don't have to slowly tighten each lug nut such that it centres, it pretty much centres as you torque it down since the wheel is close to concentric with the hub. The only way the hub's centre can react forces is if the wheel and the hub's centre were designed with a precision contact/interference fit. Else no forces are transferred.

 

I agree that you can't run longer than 5mm spacers on oem studs, but if they break off at the track its not the spacers fault.

 

You been reading those long headed books again aint ya boy.......

But the physics of how the wheel spacer works aside, it comes down to the fact that you have to put longer studs in... HAVE to... (and that they are illegal in some areas)
How many of the guys who simply MUST have that wheel that won't fit without a spacer actually put the longer studs in their cars?????? 10%.... if that??

Discribing it as a washer is dangerous as well.... the next thing you know, you'll have people running washers instead of a proper wheel spacer and that opens up a completely different ball of wax.

I'm a cynic... There is the correct way to do something, but that way usually requires a extra monitary investment and a labor investment. It has been my observation that the average guy driving a sports car isn't going to bother with it if he thinks he can get away without it. I see it roll through the shop every other day.....

Also.... During hard acceleration or braking, (hitting a pothole for example) the torque applied to the wheel can be enough to overcome the static clamping force of the wheel to the spacer to the brake hat to the hub; Especially if the nuts have not all been torqued to the right spec (or at all) and leave the studs to hold the wheel in place as it tries to spin against the hub. The longer the distance between the anchor point of the stud and the point that the force is applied, the greated leverage on the studs and the less force needed to break it. I've seen this happen... Usually, with aftermarket wheels, the wheel itself breaks, but, I've seen people break all the studs off a hub when doing a burnout and hitting a pothole. Granted, something ELSE, like the rear end, should have broken and the accident was attributed to improper lug nut torque.

Therefore, I try and discourage people from spacers, one less thing to go wrong and for me to worry about... ya know??

I'm not saying that EVERYBODY is an idiot either. If you run the proper studs, use the proper lugnuts and TORQUE the nuts, you should be fine. I've just seen to many morons in my time!!

 

I'm more curious who your talking too....


I wouldn't use a spacer if I didn't have too, but a 5mm on stock studs isn't gonna hurt anything

 

LOL.... not you!!!!!!!!!

 

yall know of any good sites that has a wide variety of wheels, i'm been through the thread and didnt see any or just overlooked'em and also, this one's for you RETed or anyone else thats familiar with wheels, whats the fattest possible wheel tire combo to fit on the back of my FC, even if i have to buy coilovers or roll my fenders, appreciate the info.

 

17x8 +28 and 17x9 +27, 225/45/17 front, 255/40/17 rear, maybe 275?

 

dunno if that was intended for my or not, but my preference would be 18's so I would have a decent highway gearing

 

the 17x8 +28 with the 225's is probably OK up front

 

What is up with some people saying that 17x8's with 35mm offset won't fit up front with a 225? i have read a million posts saying they will be fine, but then a guy just bought some rota's and he is having fitment issues. He is saying there is no room for a tire at all? I would think that you could run this size on all four corners, yes?

 

The widest I've ever seen was a 17x10 with 275/40/17 tires, and that was a damn tight fit. Offset was +35. I've never seen anyone able to get 285s to fit.

 

17 x 10 w/ 275 is probably it.... as I've posted before, I have 17 x 9.5 w/ 275 and it fits perfect....

 

I guaranty that will fit...

 

yeah i've seen it posted a few times, just had to make sure, appreciate it. would anyone have a few good links to wheel sites, i've been to tirerack and gruppe-s?

 

A few good ones I browse every now and then are:

www.wheelsboutique.com
www.wheelsdirect.com
www.tires.com

Just a few decent sites. I think tirerack is the best for tires.

 

Even though raising arizona will state that they will fit, I do not agree.
We had this combo on a set of SSR GP-theta mesh on 17" x 8" +35 offset with a 225/45/17 tire - it did not fit with stock type suspension - Tokico Illuminas with Ground Control coilovers.
The only way it would fit is with a set of front camber plates that dialed in about -2 degrees of camber up front - this allowed the strut to clear the tire.

I have a customer car running Work Rezaz Roars on 17" x 8" +35 with a 235 wide tire on it.
This doesn't fit.
It's running a 1/4" spacer to make it fit.
Even though this car has a set of Cusco front camber plates on them.

In my experience, this offset and tire width doesn't work with stock type struts.
Aftermarket coilovers with adjust shock body height should be able to clear.

This is a very tight combination, and different tire brands could make the difference.
In this case, most of the Japanese tires will not fit - i.e. Bridgestone, Dunlop, Toyo, etc. due to "curb protection" sidewalls which bulge out.
Tires like Goodyear and Pirelli might work due to a more vertical sidewall.

I prefer an offset more toward +30 with an 8" wide rim on a 225 or 235 wide tire up front.


-Ted

 

if you say they don't fit, then you must know something I don't....


I could argue, but i'm just tired of this thread.... Its all your Ted.

 

ted/raising arizona,

I think it's the spring perch on the stock replacement shock absorbers, if you remove that perch (only possible if you buy the ground control sleeve with a flush mounting type) then it should clear.

 

Here is a zip of an excel file that i made up when i got tired of going to the web calculator

You put in your starting wheel width and offset, the wheel you are going to, the old tire SECTION width the NEW tire section width and the MEASING WHEEL Width....

It then take into account the diffference in the wheel size, offset, tire size and measuring wheel size...

Measuring wheel size is important... the section width a tire will expand .2 inches for every .5 inches you go over the size of the wheel that the section widtch of the tire was originally measured on...

Example... a 215/45/18 tire may have a section with of 8.5 inches as measured on a 7 inch rim (this is actually a Kumho MX)...... If you put it on an 8 inch rim, it will now have a section width of closer to 7.4 inches.... This can make a big difference when trying to get past the front suspension on our cars. It may also explain why some people get away with 225's on 8 inchers and others do not!!!!

I used 9MM as too far in on the fronts, 30 mm as too far in on the back and 25 mm as too far out...

Play with it... se what you guys think... If you have GOOD numbers and HAVE PICS of tire/wheel combos that this thins says wont work.. lemme know so i can fix it and get a new version out.

 

Also...... I was measuring the space between the stock tire and the springs and i found that my one wheel had over 10 and the other had less than 8mm of room...... that didn't make sense... until i realized that the bearing in the one wheel, the wheel that had less room, needs replaced..... Hmmmmmmmmmm

 

Hey ted, does the 1/4" spacer with that offset push the wheel outside of the fender or does it just make it more flush so that it tucks in nicely?

 

I'm interested in that one too.... thats gotta be close to sticking out from under the fender... does that guy have his fenders rolled????