Nitto NT-555RII - PICS
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Nitto uses the same compound in these tires as they do in their straight up Drag Radial, the Extreme II's just have stiffer sidewalls for road racing/auto-x applications in addition to being a sticky DR once warmed up.
Here is a Nitto add for the tire: http://home.earthlink.net/~jonaa/Nittoadd.JPG
I've been looking for a DR to use on the street for some extra traction, but didn't want to give up the ability to corner. Found these, DR compound with stiff sidewall, and I think my prayers have been answered...
K
Here is a Nitto add for the tire: http://home.earthlink.net/~jonaa/Nittoadd.JPG
I've been looking for a DR to use on the street for some extra traction, but didn't want to give up the ability to corner. Found these, DR compound with stiff sidewall, and I think my prayers have been answered...
K
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nice. i think i will be ordering a set as soon as i burn up the kumho's on the rears. what front tires are you running ? how much were they and who has em
Last edited by vosko; 01-17-03 at 02:38 PM.
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Originally posted by vosko
how much were they and who has em
how much were they and who has em
Heat cycled and shipped they were about $180/each.
knock off $15/each if you want to heat cycle them yourself...lol
K
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#8
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Yeah, the artificial heat cycle does not really heat up the tires like they would during a REAL heat cycle. Save yourself $60, and skip the artificial heat cycle, and run the tires yourself at the track, or during an autocross.
For those who don't know, the tire store mounts your new tires on a wheel, and runs the tire against a roller with some "ground" pressure. I'm sure the tires do get warm, but not warm enough for the rubber molecules to stretch apart significantly, like they would after 10 laps at Putnam Park.
Remember that the cooling cycle is really the important part of the so called, heat cycle. It's the cooling process that allows the rubber molecules to contract and reform to a more solid structure, thus allowing the tire to give you more usable life versus non-heat cycled tires. Ideally you'll want a 24-hour cooling cycle before the tires are used HARD.
Note that Hoosier R3S03s and A3S03s are particularly sensitive to heat cycling. If you don't heat cycle Hoosiers you'll burn up Hoosiers FAST.
Some race teams dedicate a single set of fresh stickered (non heat-cycled) tires just to qualify well on the grid, and then use "scrubs" for the race.
The fresh stickered tires give you maximum grip, but shortened usable life and inconsistent performace due to overheating after say 10 laps (the length of a qualifying session). The scrubbed tires are already heat-cycled, and will give very consistent performance throughout the duration of a sprint or enduro race (30 or 60 minutes of full-on road racing).
For those who don't know, the tire store mounts your new tires on a wheel, and runs the tire against a roller with some "ground" pressure. I'm sure the tires do get warm, but not warm enough for the rubber molecules to stretch apart significantly, like they would after 10 laps at Putnam Park.
Remember that the cooling cycle is really the important part of the so called, heat cycle. It's the cooling process that allows the rubber molecules to contract and reform to a more solid structure, thus allowing the tire to give you more usable life versus non-heat cycled tires. Ideally you'll want a 24-hour cooling cycle before the tires are used HARD.
Note that Hoosier R3S03s and A3S03s are particularly sensitive to heat cycling. If you don't heat cycle Hoosiers you'll burn up Hoosiers FAST.
Some race teams dedicate a single set of fresh stickered (non heat-cycled) tires just to qualify well on the grid, and then use "scrubs" for the race.
The fresh stickered tires give you maximum grip, but shortened usable life and inconsistent performace due to overheating after say 10 laps (the length of a qualifying session). The scrubbed tires are already heat-cycled, and will give very consistent performance throughout the duration of a sprint or enduro race (30 or 60 minutes of full-on road racing).
Last edited by SleepR1; 01-17-03 at 03:57 PM.
#10
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Get the tires up to temperature. You should corner hard enough such that tires are at their operating temps. A road racing circuit is the only SAFE place to do this.
For Hoosiers operating temps are between 180 F to 200 F. An easy way to tell,without a pyrometer is to touch the tire compounds, just after pitting in. If they're tacky to the touch, you've warmed up the tire compounds sufficiently. After getting the rubber up to temp. Pit in, and remove the wheels/tires from the car. Let the tires "cure" for 24 hours. The tires will be set for the next track session!
For Hoosiers operating temps are between 180 F to 200 F. An easy way to tell,without a pyrometer is to touch the tire compounds, just after pitting in. If they're tacky to the touch, you've warmed up the tire compounds sufficiently. After getting the rubber up to temp. Pit in, and remove the wheels/tires from the car. Let the tires "cure" for 24 hours. The tires will be set for the next track session!
Last edited by SleepR1; 01-17-03 at 07:17 PM.
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Originally posted by nocab72
http://www.discounttiredirect.com
Heat cycled and shipped they were about $180/each.
knock off $15/each if you want to heat cycle them yourself...lol
K
http://www.discounttiredirect.com
Heat cycled and shipped they were about $180/each.
knock off $15/each if you want to heat cycle them yourself...lol
K
those should fit on my 17x9.5 rear wheels
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yup, they will fit just about perfect on your 17x9.5's. Mine are going on 17x10's, but shouldn't make a BIG different.
I think they might make a 305/??-18 and they USED to make a 315/??-17. I'm thinking the 275/40-17 is just about the optimimum for our cars...I'll certainly let you guys know what I think once I get them mounted and on the car.
K
I think they might make a 305/??-18 and they USED to make a 315/??-17. I'm thinking the 275/40-17 is just about the optimimum for our cars...I'll certainly let you guys know what I think once I get them mounted and on the car.
K
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Originally posted by nocab72
yup, they will fit just about perfect on your 17x9.5's. Mine are going on 17x10's, but shouldn't make a BIG different.K
yup, they will fit just about perfect on your 17x9.5's. Mine are going on 17x10's, but shouldn't make a BIG different.K
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Originally posted by vosko
i know but i have no choice in the matter. right now i have 255/40/17's kumho's and ZERO traction on the street
i'm gonna go with the 275's it should be fine
i know but i have no choice in the matter. right now i have 255/40/17's kumho's and ZERO traction on the street
i'm gonna go with the 275's it should be fine
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Originally posted by SleepR1
Ok...of course you could get 255/40-17 Kumho V700 Victoracers. Outstanding R-compound tire, and about par with Nitto 555RIIs...
Ok...of course you could get 255/40-17 Kumho V700 Victoracers. Outstanding R-compound tire, and about par with Nitto 555RIIs...
#20
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Originally posted by vosko
how will the handling be with 712's up front and V700's in the rear ? i'm not looking to spend $800 tires right now
how will the handling be with 712's up front and V700's in the rear ? i'm not looking to spend $800 tires right now
I have heard that if you heat them up, they get better (stickiness wise), but it would be interesing what a racer's technique would be to just heat up the fronts hehe.
Keep them all the same if you doing road racing/auto-x, you can get away with none-matching compounds (front to rear) if you're just drag racing obviously.
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Originally posted by dclin
Yup, Sleep's right - that combo would have your front pushin' hard. I had a couple sets of 712s, and while they have good wet performance and last FOREVER, they aren't the stickiest things in the world, by any measure.
I have heard that if you heat them up, they get better (stickiness wise), but it would be interesing what a racer's technique would be to just heat up the fronts hehe.
Keep them all the same if you doing road racing/auto-x, you can get away with none-matching compounds (front to rear) if you're just drag racing obviously.
Yup, Sleep's right - that combo would have your front pushin' hard. I had a couple sets of 712s, and while they have good wet performance and last FOREVER, they aren't the stickiest things in the world, by any measure.
I have heard that if you heat them up, they get better (stickiness wise), but it would be interesing what a racer's technique would be to just heat up the fronts hehe.
Keep them all the same if you doing road racing/auto-x, you can get away with none-matching compounds (front to rear) if you're just drag racing obviously.
#23
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Originally posted by vosko
i'm going to VIR for a second time in march for the MDA. hmmm i guess i'm gonna order all 4 tires. what a waste of time. should have never ordered those POS 712's. i'm gonna get my money's worth out of the rears though can we say burnouts and donuts
i'm going to VIR for a second time in march for the MDA. hmmm i guess i'm gonna order all 4 tires. what a waste of time. should have never ordered those POS 712's. i'm gonna get my money's worth out of the rears though can we say burnouts and donuts
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Originally posted by vosko
see this is what i get for being cheap thanks for the help
see this is what i get for being cheap thanks for the help
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Originally posted by SleepR1
This is VERY SMART of you. VIR is a challenging circuit (never been there myself, so I've read), and handling/braking will take top priority over hp, although your big power will come handy climbing that big hill! Have fun, and STAY SAFE!
This is VERY SMART of you. VIR is a challenging circuit (never been there myself, so I've read), and handling/braking will take top priority over hp, although your big power will come handy climbing that big hill! Have fun, and STAY SAFE!