heidihi

FDvirgin.

what suspension are you running, and what kind of wheels are those those are super nice!! off sets and tires sizes are also helpful for me!

pluto

Yea, I can drop the front tire pressure a little. As for the tire temp, they should be in the 180-190 range. I think because my car weights in around 2300lbs with 18x10 and 18x12, they don't get enough heat in them. Amb temp was around 94F.

I made a little spreadsheet based on Howard's calculations, it looks pretty good but I wanted to see his opinion on it. I still need to figure out how to keep the front wheel from coming of the ground accelerating out of a corner. I have been told to run 1400# springs front and 1000# springs rear. I'm currently running 800/600

pluto

Here're some pictures of my car. For some reason, it wouldn't allow me to display them so I can only provide a link to the picture.

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525248

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525293

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525342

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525355

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525369

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525399

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525403

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525423

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525478

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525493

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525548

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525545

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525613

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525620

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525633

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525697

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525727

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525775

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525780

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525808

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525825

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525838

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525848

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525885

Here're a few pic of my Nemesis (Steve Hill) and his GT3RS

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525878

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525827

http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...ewImage=525764

fd3virgin

tein ha's, gram lights 18x 9.5 +38 offset on all four corners. i am running 255s up front and 285 in the rears. summimoto htz IIIs.

fd3virgin

nice car steve do you even have an interior at 2300lbs? what kind of tow hook is that? kvn

damian

iTrader: (2)

>>I still need to figure out how to keep the front wheel from coming of the ground accelerating out of a corner.

Stiffin the chassy and stronger sway bars?

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Steve,
That car must be amazing Beating a GT3 RS by 3 seconds says it all

2300 lbs and running 315s WOW I'm surprise you're not picking up both wheels Seriously though if it's hooking up and going where you want it then I wouldn't sweat it.

As far as tire temps go maybe the tires are more than the engine can turn. How much power is it making?

aoc007

iTrader: (5)

Pluto,

Thats a pretty good collection of cars at that trackday, which organization is it with? See you're car makes me want to take mine off the street and into full race haha, looks like you'll be tuning my FD soon in San Jose, see ya.

-Andy

pluto

The car is completely gutted. It has a rear lexan window and no driver/passenger window. It has a 10 point roll cage, dual master brake cylinder (AP racing front, stock rear).

pluto

Hey Fritz,
Thanks. the car is pretty quick. I think I still have another 2-3 secs left in it w/ better suspension setup.

as for hp, it makes around 340rwhp. Nothing crazy for 12-13psi of boost.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

There's a good chance your straight away speeds along w/ grip/temps could go up if you put some smaller wheels and tires on there, and you also might get her pointed quicker. Braking would of course suffer. I bet the brakes in that car are frikken silly. Or leave the susp alone and add 100 rwhp to use those tires.

I think 1400lb front springs would be too much in a car weighing 2300lbs even w/ all that rubber. What are you running right now?

I like my current setup w/ the exception of the wheels and tires, and also I could go on a massive diet the car weighs 2700lbs. I'm running Tein race coilovers with 740 springs all the way around, stock r1 rear sway and big tri-point bar set in the middle hole on the front, and 17 x 9.5 w/ 275s at all four corners. I think i would be a lot quicker with 18 x 10 285s all the way around and lowered an inch but I'm a cheap bastard who just rides on what he has.

pluto

This is a driving school event www.thedriversedge.net. They usually have a good mix of cars ranging from Miatas, IS350, BMW, to Vettes, vipers, lambo, GT40...etc.. I'm an instructor for them so I get free track time. The guy in the GT3RS is also an instructor and a factory Porsche racer.

pluto

I'm planning to add a boost controller and run 15psi. It made 392rwhp@17psi on my dyno so @15psi, it should be around 370rwhp range. I do have a problem with fuel pressure. The aeromotive pump wouldn't hold pressure once the tank gets below 3/4 tank. I'm redoing the entire fuel system adding a fuel surge tank along with another intank pump to help with the problem.

As for the suspension, they are Koni double adjustable coil overs with 800# springs front and 600# springs rear. I just bought some 700# springs for the back so I'll try them out along with adding a rear sway bar.

Brakes are AP racing front and stock rear with Wildwood dual master cylinder and brake bias setup. I do not have power steering, power brakes or ABS in the car so I'm still learning my limitations as I go. Brake pads are PFC01 front and hawk HPS rear. I'm planning to change my rear to PFC04 and see if I get better grip. I have to modulate the brakes a few times to keep the fronts from locking up while trail braking thru the turn.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

"The guy in the GT3RS is also an instructor and a factory Porsche racer"

DAMN Steve,
If you're clocking 3 seconds faster than a pro in a GT3 RS you are super FAST What are your lap times?

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Those HPs are fading after your 1st turn w/ those steam rollers out back I'd go w/ hawke blues or HD 10 or something with a lot more bite. I don't think PFC makes plates for our rear brakes. I run PFC 97s up front and blues out back and still lock the front first.

pluto

I ran a personal best of 2:21 per lap. I think He ran his best also with a 2:24-2:25 per lap.

Here's a video of an instructor running his hot lap in a lotus (I think) for reference.

http://www.thedriversedge.net/TDE-MSR-Full.wmv

pluto

I also find a motorcycle race video on the same track.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...23312524&hl=en

the guy was running 2:30/lap

M104-AMG

iTrader: (8)

Steve- can you share with us your engine setup?

Single (what type), stock turbos, BNR Stage III's; injectors, etc.

Maybe I don't have to get that LS3 . . .

Also, have you installed Hyperion's fuel-tank mod ? It's been working well for me. . .

Thanks,
:-) neil

pluto

There's nothing special on the engine mods. It has my stage 3 street port w/ OEM 2mm seals running 12-13psi of boost. Haltech E6K 550/1600cc injectors, 3 MSD 6AL ignition amps. HKS log manifold and Garrett T61 turbo. It has twin 32row oil coolers, Pettit Racing radiator, custom FMIC. The car never runs over 200F on both oil and coolant temp. I think the hottest I saw was 205F towards the end of a session.

I do have a 26 gal fuel cell and it has a built-in reserivor inside the tank. My problem is the fuel pump. Aeromotive A1000 doesn't like to suck fuel from the top of the tank.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Steve,
Thanks for the video links that track looks like a hoot. Did you shoot any video of yourself and if you did please put it up on you tube if possible

Once you have that car dialed in and making a reliable 375 you should be very competitive in ITE or TTU. Might be time for some door to door or atleast some TTs if you're not already competing w/ it.

If you ever decide to sell it please let me know hehe

pluto

I dont' have a camcorder mount in my car. I really should get one so I can post videos in here. I wanted to compete in NASA but not until I get the car fully dial in. I used to race in SCCA ITA and spec rx7 class. I spend way too much in it so I stopped after 2 yrs of racing and stick with driving school and help instruct students.

As for the track, I know on average, most experienced fast drivers run in the 2:35-2:40s range including instructors. Spec Miata runs in the 2:38 range. There was a mustang instructor who races for NASA/SCCA in T1 run 2:28s so I'm pretty happy that my car perform the way it did.

I just find another cool video of some go kart racing at the same track. He was running 2:24 so he was running the same lap time as the GT3RS.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwU9SAcOvLs


If I do sell it, I will let you know. You are not gonna part it out are you?

gnx7

iTrader: (10)

Steve (Pluto)- that car looks great and the weight is even more impressive. Is that weight with full fuel and ready to race aside from the driver?

Can you list your weight saving tips? I assume this is a track only car with a lot of the wiring harness removed also? It is a 13B-REW right?

What size slicks are you running? Meaning how tall front/rear?

pluto

Hey Mark,
Yes, the car is weighted w/o the driver. I really should weight the car w/ me in it to double verify those numbers. I think most of the weight savings comes from the windows. It has lexan rear and no driver/passenger window. Everything is gutted (no dash, speakers, wiring harness, ABS, A/C stuff, interior carpet etc...

Aside from that, everything else is the same. It does have a REW engine it in.

As for the slicks. I got the Yokohamas Advan slicks. 280/65R/18 front and 320/65R/18 rear soft compound. I think they make three different compound so I decided to use the soft compound since the car is too light to wear out these tires. They are run-off tires from a porsche cup car so they should be pretty common.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

i just returned from montana/wyoming and being off the net for a week.

it looks like there's alot of good info continuing on this thread which is a delight. i will be back at you all after getting unpacked.

hc

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

steve,

thanks for the data and it looks like you are doing well and heading in the right direction.

at 2300 pounds, running 10 and 12 inch wheels you need to lower your air pressure so your tires will work harder. (kind of along the lines that Fritz mentioned re smaller rubber)

noting your last data set:

in all but one corner the highest temperature is the middle. 3 of your 4 tires are overinflated. just think how fast you are going to be when you start using all your tire contact surface. (i am not kidding). further, the wider the tire (and yours are wide) the more critical setup is.

your camber in the front needs another half degree. from your last session you only have 6 degrees difference between inside and out. you want 10-12.

adjust tire pressure so the middle hot temp is halfway between the inner and outer. (you will find that you will run different pressures at each corner.)

right rear average temp is 161 V LR at 151. any static weight you can shift from R to L would result in faster laps.

also, if your temps are accurate from your last session, you need a half degree of camber in the left rear.

i looked at all your pics. your car does not look like it is overly squating on the outside rear in a turn. of course the pics were taken from only one corner... i suggest you do the tie wraps next time out and eliminate gueswork.

a tie wrap on each shockrod pushed down onto the shock body just before a session... anything more than 1.4 inches of travel from ride height at the shock rod calls for more roll control.

as i have previously mentioned roll control can be achieved either thru more spring or bar. at a certain point springs will decrease traction whereas a bar will not. be careful w spring rate.

based on the pics i saw i would not change roll control til doing the tie wraps.

just a comment on brakes...

i assume you are running the AP5200s up front and either the late model FD or stock FD rear. brake bias is really important in going fast. you need as much rear brakes as you can handle. and i do mean handle because you reach a point as you dial in more rears of being out of control at corner entry. before i ran my RacingBrake 4 wheel setup i had the M2 AP 5200s and stock rears. the stock rears dictated how much of the fronts i could use. you are running tons of rear rubber so the more rears you can add the more effort you can input.

i consider my RB setup to be a huge uptick from stock. your ability to adjust bias w your Wilwood twin masters and a bias bar is a big plus that could be better capitalized with more rear brakes.

thanks for the data and the pics which were helpful.

hc