TO AOC007, Andy, how much filing did you have to do on the mounting nubs? we have little real world feedback to the thread so far on this, if yours is ground about the same as Howard and you have that 2mm clear then those of us still making the choice might feel more confident with the grinding route........
Gracer7-rx7 (posting on pg 32) seemed to have more than the minor clearance issue, if Gracer could comment further it would be welcome as well.......
chuck

 

^Yes, I did. The passenger side would not rotate at all once the wheel was on. When the wheel was off and I tried to spin it by hand, it would touch pretty hard at a certain point. Kinda like an out of round bicycle rim. I suspect that the rotor hat might be out of round but don't know for sure. I'll have to wait until I get the replacement hardware from RB.

The driver's side rotor was a more constant interferance/rubbing against the nub that you referred to.

 

Thanks Gracer, I dont want to put words in your mouth but as i read it you'll be with Howard on the 'minor grind only' needed once you have sound parts for both sides........
Has anyone else got this far and want to comment on their clearance grinding?

 

Anyone notice that Howards rotor slots look different than aoc007's? Howards are very standard looking, while 007's are slightly curved, and appear to be drilled out inside?

 

Howard has the slotted kit, aoc007 has the open slot kit:

http://www.racingbrake.com/RX7_s/3286.htm

 

Nope, not me. I said that I will not be taking the grinding option.

I'm waiting for the redesigned replacement parts. My risk tolerance for brake related changes is very low.

 

I'd say we ground about 2mm, I didn't think to measure. On a side note last night I was doin a u-turn a bit fast (full lock) and heard some noise coming from the right front, not sure if it was brake related though.

 

aoc700, your pictures show you bought the brake line kit as well but in a later picture of your rear install, the lines look old.

Did you use ALL the SS lines?

 

The front and rear stainless lines come with the front big brake kit. But Racing Brake sent me a set of front lines that were for a stock caliper not their alum. caliper and the front lines are being recalled anyway so we put the rear lines on the front and let them sit behind the shock and I kept my Goodridge stainless lines that I had before on the stock rear calipers, they worked fine.

 

Howard, I just picked up a set of the same 18x8.5 and 18x9.5 Enkie's.

Do your tires sit flush with the wheel rim ? Mine don't.

Also, what lugnuts do you run (stock doesn't seem to fit well) ?

:-) neil

 

Now that some of you guys have these installed how about some reviews?

I am particularly interested to know how the brake pedal feels overall. Does it feel stiffer?

Does hard braking feel more powerful?

Is the pad knock-back improved?

Inquiring minds wanna know...

 

It feels the same to me.

On the street I would say maybe a little bit, on the track I think they should be very powerful at temp (I have ET700 pads)

-Andy

 

Pics of new front brake lines installed for those who would like to see them.

 

bump for relevant info

 

Now THAT looks the way it should!

-ch

 

The pics are from my passenger side which required more grinding then the drivers side.
I measured the clearance between the RB caliper bracket and rotor with a feeler gauge then ground the factory bracket until it exceeded that measurement. Clearance ended up being around 2mm.
Hopefully, this will ensure the bracket never interferes.
The caliper mounting bolts supplied by RB did not engage the last three threads, so grinding off the boss shouldn't impact anything. I made sure the ground area was well radiused and smooth so not to induce any stress risers.

I'm heading to the track this week, but they are calling for rain. :-(

 

Please do post after your track event. As the rotors are floating and the FD hubs/uprights are known to flex, I think we're all very interested to see if you notice any contact.

I'd suggest that you color the metal with a Sharpie so that you can easily see any new wear that may occur.

-ch

 

I have yet to go on the track but under the right level of braking force the rotors seem to vibrate a lot and make noise, I can feel/hear it. We attributed this to the floating rotors.

Another update, I installed the recall stainless lines and they work well, not as much slack as the goodridges on my stock calipers but still there seems to be enough at full lock. Also I installed brake shims for the front, my pads already had about a thousand miles or so on them (im easy on them on the street) and the pads are pressed against the rotors hard enough that on a slight incline I can let off the brakes and the car stays still...

P.S. Hyperion your surge tank cover seems to be working good I'm looking forward to my next trackday.

-Andy

 

Andy, thank you for the feedback and the info. One question, can you provide further info associated with the following quote?...

I can't figure out why you attribute vibration to floating rotors...

Jeff

 

I was thinking because there is some room for movement between the hat and rotor that it can vibrate a bit. My setup is different now and I am re-breaking it in so I will have to see with time but right now it doesn't seem to be doing it very much.

 

Nah. The rotors don't actually "float" they are indeed hard mounted to the hat. There really isn't any movement btw the rotor and hat. There shouldn't be *any* vibration from the brakes regardless of the circumstance. You will, I'm sure, feel the pulsation of the slots in the rotors but this is a decidedly different feeling than that of a vibration.

Keep us posted.

Jeff

 

Hm, but isnt there enough play for them to move somewhat? Maybe it was the slots I felt, I'll try to pay more attention next time.

And no matter what I do I can't seem to get these damn ET700 pads to not squeak... I have the shims and anti-squeak on now and under light braking they always do, not as bad as before when it was like a symphony but it annoys me. Hopefully they will just brake in or else I will return them.

-Andy

 

Yes, they do "float". That's one of the purposes of two piece rotors, the other is to save weight. The fasteners are torqued to only 96 lb-in to allow the expansion of the rings as they get hot. There's more movement there than the might think, But it shouldn't cause any vibrations.

I've gone though a set of EBC yellows on the OEM size two piece RB rotors and am experiencing a vibration if I really push the brakes on the track. I attributed it to over heating the pad material and having a excess pad deposit issue. I was going to push RB to make the 700s for the OEM calipers but now I'm not sure I want them.

Anyone else experiencing this vibration?



Paul

Also, the hat to ring fasteners needed to be re torqued after a couple of track days some of them were loose to the touch.

 

I was at a driving school recently with a couple friends, one of the instructors (a racer himself) and a novice student with a Skyline GTR with EBC Yellows. This is a fairly easy track on brakes too, but after 4 laps with the instructor at the wheel he'd have brake fade of the pad variety (hard pedal, much reduced stopping power). Happened every time he took that car out. Not good pads, so you probably were overheating them.

 

Agreed that floating rotors don't 'rattle around', but to say that they are 'hard mounted' is a bit misleading. They can't be easily moved with your bare hands, but they should not be totally fixed by the hardware. This would not allow the rotors to expand during the heating cycle.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/Brembo/Rotor_Replacement.htm

But as it results to vibration, I agree that floating rotors shouldn't contribute unless they are improperly installed.

-ch