This just in, thats GREEN...

 

nm

 

This greenish gray color was offered only to pre-order customers other than our standard Red and Black.

For customers with last change or choice with this color are allowed to change their choice to Red or Black (shipped or unshipped orders) if they are not satisfied. Please email us and indicate your order number for the change.

 

Should we remove both front and rear dust shields entirely... or as much as we can?

Mine are slated to arrive Friday .

 

Thanks RB, we should know by now that you guys would do everything you can to make us happy. Thank you very much. So is a (more) 'grey' caliper (besides the 'green' caliper) completely off the choice list now (in other words, will there be an attempt at redoing the color)? I really would like a grey caliper, and don't mind waiting (though I can't speak for others of course), but otherwise black will work as well.

Thanks!

Daniel

 

Mine arrived this morning. I ran home at lunch, opened the boxes for a quick fondle, then back to work.

It's going to be a long afternoon...

 

I'll let RB say this authoritatively, but in my conversation today with them they said that they were likely to discontinue the gray/green as an option. I too really liked the gray option, but it appears that a second attempt at the color will not be made any time soon.

-ch

 

Someone pleassse get these installed and tested out!!!

 

I'm wondering the same thing.

Removing them completely would allow water and other fluids to hit the rotor.

 

Bummer, but I completely understand. Personally, I can wait another couple of months to get a grey caliper if they were willing to try for it. Guess I'll wait to see if there is any chance I could wait for another batch of something else to go to the coaters for grey.

I also kinda hate "sticking them" with a batch of green calipers since I pushed for "Grey" and they tried to apease me (us) with a run of grey just for those of us who pre-ordered.... While I want what I paid for, I also understand that they were trying to do us a favor in doing multiple runs.

Oh well. Mine will be here in a few days. Props to RB for being on top of all this as usual.

 

Just changed my caliper color to black. I'm told that (in general) red anodize over time can fade to a lighter pink.

Edit: told to me by a fellow shop owner buddy of mine, may not be applicable here.....just fyi.

 

And black annodized can fade to a purple-ish hue.

 

great write up, ive been looking to upgrading, and it gave me alot of info

 

So, anybody know of a place in NorCal/Bay Area where I can get my rear calipers hard anodized to match?

 

SO, what's wrong with power coating them again?

 

The annodize is a much stronger coating since it actually becomes part of the metal in essence. it will be more durable, harder, stronger and will provide better long term protection for the base metal.

 

Should we remove both front and rear dust shields entirely... or as much as we can?

 

Entirely. It is simple using a dremel.

 

I just did it... and tin snips work better.... are faster too. Thanks for the reply.

 

So whats the average install time for the full kit?

 

My British Racing Green calipers arrived today, and will go back tomorrow. These would probably be very popular with the Aston Martin crowd.

I received two RH rear rotors so double check yours before install. Since they are symmetric, you can just remove the ring from the hat and flip it over - but - you must use new hardware according to RB which they are sending me.

Thanks to them for making the color switch such a painless processm and fixing the rotor problem quickly.

 

Having some fitment issues with the front BBK on my car.... Following is an excerpt of my email to Steve Woods at Racing Brake who has been helping resolve the fitment issues some of us have experienced.


----------------
I just finished a bunch of testing on this and can definitely say the rotors will not work.

Just to make sure everything was correctly spaced, I went ahead and bled the brakes and mounted and tightened the wheels and tires. Then I tried to rotate each front wheel by hand.

The passenger side wheel will not rotate at all unless you apply a lot of force. It particularly seems to get caught up at the #1 and #8 finger on the spindle at the top caliper mount. It almost seems as if its out of round in that one particular spot.

The driver's side isn't as bad. The wheel will rotate but you hear it rubbing at the same point as the passenger tire but it is a consistent scraping sound throughout the rotation.

The brake line is also very worrisome. It is not long enough to route through the OEM brake line support location on the shock. So I routed it outside of that brake line support. As it is, I can barely remove the caliper from the rotor with the brake line attached. At full steering wheel lock, the brake line is rubbing against the shock body and is being pulled taught. Not a safe situation at all. Compared to the Mazda Competition stainless braided lines that I am replacing, yours are about 2" too short. Stated in other words, Mazda's lines allow more slack for full wheel movement.

How do we proceed from here? Unfortunately, this kit is not usable at all and I'm going to have to reinstall my other brakes.

Thanks.just finished a bunch of testing on this and can definitely say the rotors will not work.

I see the same AD number on my calipers.

Just to make sure everything was correctly spaced, I went ahead and bled the brakes and mounted and tightened the wheels and tires. Then I tried to rotate each front wheel by hand.

The passenger side wheel will not rotate at all unless you apply a lot of force. It particularly seems to get caught up at the #1 and #8 finger on the spindle at the top caliper mount. It almost seems as if its out of round in that one particular spot.

The driver's side isn't as bad. The wheel will rotate but you hear it rubbing at the same point as the passenger tire but it is a consistent scraping sound throughout the rotation.

The brake line is also very worrisome. It is not long enough to route through the OEM brake line support location on the shock. So I routed it outside of that brake line support. As it is, I can barely remove the caliper from the rotor with the brake line attached. At full steering wheel lock, the brake line is rubbing against the shock body and is being pulled taught. Not a safe situation at all. Compared to the Mazda Competition stainless braided lines that I am replacing, yours are about 2" too short. Stated in other words, Mazda's lines allow more slack for full wheel movement.

How do we proceed from here? Unfortunately, this kit is not usable at all and I'm going to have to reinstall my other brakes.

-----------


Pics coming soon.

 

During a quick test fitting with mine I noticed the rotor tabs rubbing slightly on the stock mounting tab flange (it bulges out a little at the screw hole). I wasn't worried as 30 sec. with a file / grinder will remove enough metal from it to stop the rubbing.

The brake lines, however, are another issue.

 

^ My passenger side isn't rubbing slightly. That wheel will not move w/o exerting a lot of force. On the road, one risks that the scraping will rip apart the fingers holding the rotor to the rotor hat. Catastrophic brake failure is not a tolerable risk.



Understand that I'm not posting this to bash Racing Brake. Just warning you guys that might be planning on installing these so you don't waste your time like I did. I also wanted to see if others are having the same fitment issues.

The product itself looks great but it is worrisome that myself and others are experiencing this. I wonder how much testing RB did on these parts.

To summarize the issues that I observed with the front kit:

1. The "guide holes" or "set screw holes" that help attach the rotor hat to the hub are off by 1/4" - 1/2". Not a huge deal but I do like using those set screws and would prefer if they were in the correct placement for the RX7.

2. The brake line is too short. See previous post.

3. The rotor rubs the spindle / steering knuckle.

Here are some pics that help try to show the location where it is rubbing and the stretched brake line.

 

Here are more pics of the issues listed above, I also experienced.

Another one is the rear pads are too thick causing a combined 3mm difference between the caliper piston/fork gap and the brake pad/rotor gap. I had this same issue with my stock brake setup with HP+ pads. Had to remove pad material with a sanding wheel in order to fit.

Nice kit though, looking forward to abusing them at the track.