21 days since Howard's last post and still no road race braking results.
What's up DOC?

 

i was on the dyno aug 19 and based on the results sent my turbos back to majestic for stage 5 turbine wheels... they should arrive today and i am scheduled to be back on the dyno sep 23.

while all here are interested in brakes my primary thrust for the last 4 years is proving out my twin TO4 setup and i am very close.

assuming the sep 23 dyno session works i will be at BHF as soon as there is an open date.

i have over 1000 miles on the system and while none of it is ontrack every aspect of the setup looks 100% so far. wear pattern is perfect on the rotors so the alignment is good. no rotor upright interference after my 10 minute file job. performance is powerful and linear.

howard coleman

 

Mine arrived in the mail the other day and I'm impressed with the fit and finish of the product. I hope to have them installed (along with my superpro'd control arms) within the next few weeks.

 

NICE!

 

RB sent me replacement rotor rings and a label to send the cracked ones back, although I will have to pay for labor I appreciate that they are fixing this free of charge. They are very nice guys to deal with.

Now the RacingBrake lettering on the calipers is starting to come off although thats probably due to too much brake cleaner. But the paint doesn't seem very durable. I'll give them a call monday and ask for some kind of stencil so I can have them laser etched or repainted and clear coated.

-Andy

 

I got my replacement calipers (color swap), longer lines, and replacement rotor hats (damaged during initial shipment) and am very happy. Haven't installed it yet, but I do have everything I need at this point.

FWIW, I chose the $150 rebate option just to be clear.

Now that I OWN an entire set of brakes, bushings, suspension, sways etc I need to actually INSTALL it.

-Chris

 

I know that feeling

I think I'm going to go play around with the front rotor and caliper, they're like works of art

 

 

i put my (150 rebate) 4 wh kit on this weekend, you need not concern yourself with the clearance of the bracket boss, it took just a little grinding down to get some space, what is really of note is that the gap between the caliper bracket and the outside edge of the rotor, it is .082" as measured with feeler guage, if the rotor will rub anywhere this it. I imagine it might well be the same on the revised kits too...
Other note: the front rotor hats are drilled for the phillips set screw but they dont align with the stock holes, not even one of them, my hub is drilled Eq Eq between the lug studs, the hat is drilled off center closer to the stud........
I have the RB 700 pads, just been thru the bedding per spec, the last 55 mph stop got a quick plume of smoke going up front...i will have them on T-hill track wednesday if i get the time to run over there........
It all went in very smoothly, very nice kit.
chuck

 

BTW, no brake pad shims in with my kit, i installed/running them without any.....

 

Does anybody know why the FD has a set screw for the brake rotors? Bolting the wheel on pretty much holds the rotors in place anyways.

I've changed the brake rotors on a few different cars, and I can't recall any of them having a set screw. A threaded hole in the rotor hat perhaps, but nothing for it to match to on the hub itself. I always though that the threaded hole was there to simply help break free a rotor when replacing, since they often get 'frozen' to the hub after use.

 

As I understand it, the phillips-head screw was to hold the rotor to the hub when the car was on the assy line w/out wheels mounted.

 

i initially raised the screw hole non-alignment w RB and received the same explanation as stated by goodfella...

hc

 

Some pics I snapped comparing the RB setup to my old stock setup

 

A few more......

 

You need to change some rotors on a mid-80's Mercedes. They use a hex-head set-screw.

If you ever had a frozen wheel stuck to a hub, you'll appreciate the set-screw. Yes the brake caliper assembly will hold her on, but it so much nicer to have at least one other side bolted on.

:-) neil

 

See my initial feedback here: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=923

I've logged on another 400-500 street miles or so since my initial feedback, including a 300+ mile labor day trip. The ET700's are very rotor friendly, but not completely benign. They did squeal a few times at very low speeds and light brake application (parking lot maneuvers). Dusting is very reasonable. The rotors look great and pad wear is minimal.

I wanted something more aggressive so I switched to ET800's front and rear. I only have a handful of miles on them, but I'm very impressed thus far. The torque is notably higher then the 700's. On par with or higher then the HP+ I was using. Also, they handled the motorsports bed-in procedure with aplomb. I haven’t had them on long enough to assess squealing/dust.

I have a track day scheduled for tomorrow, but picked up a (*&*^* nail and got a flat tonight... note, the spare tire doesn't fit front or rear. Any suggestions for a suitable 17+" spare tire? Hopefully I can find a suitable replacement tire tomorrow morning and salvage the event.

 

My car is my DD and my ET700s squeal like crazy every single time I come to a stop on the street. (I brake lightly for a good ways up to the stop, they don't do this if I brake more quickly) And it takes about a week for them to dust up my clearcoated silver wheels badly. I'm really getting sick of this but I see no other choice than to have a street pad and track pad, I think I will order ET300s at some point, I was hoping the 700s would be able to pull double duty, but not for me.

-Andy

 

I've been wondering the same thing. A cheap 17" rim with a very low profile and narrow tire that may actually fit in the stock spare location.

 

You can also import the 17" spare wheel & tire from Japan, though I have no idea whether it would clear your setup.

 

wed i had my 700 pads on the track at T-Hill, they were very predictable and felt good, the bias was slightly more rear than desired but only slightly, and only noticable in T10 & T-14 and only when comming in really hard to get that little wiggle going, i must admit that my rear end is slightly high and my springs are a little soft so that might account for the that......i was instructing so i got limited time out (1/2 tank) and didnt drive it 100% braking too much, but i got no fade and good bite every time, enough that the stock brakes would have been gone......T-hill is not that hard on brakes as there is time to cool between heavy zones.....i drove 2.25 hrs there and 3hrs back some in pouring rain, so far not a peep (squeeking), lots of dust though.

 

I just wanted to say 'thanks' for taking the time to post the four pics that you did. They helped quite a bit during my install

 

I'm almost done with my install, and have verified that the RB setup works with my Fikse FM5 classics. There is around 6 mm clearance between the front face of the caliper and the backside of the spokes, so plenty of room. I know that the Stoptech setup would not have worked with the Fikses (there was 1mm of 'overlap' so spacers would have been needed). The RB setup was a breeze to install, and the brake pads are very beefy, they dwarf the stock pads.

 

Set screws:


Countersunk screws:


The screws on rotors are countersunk screws.

Howi

 

So, the Racing Brake Calipers sit 7mm farther in than the Stoptech kit. Is this based on the Stoptech provided template from their website?
Thanks