FD New Brake Options
#826
On to the front…
Install caliper mounting bracket. I recommend you grab a Nicholson 12 inch Bastard file and spend no more that 5 minutes tops filing the outboard side of the upright casting as it might/could contact the inside edge of the rotor. You do not have to file much…. Just on a RADIUS from the center of the rotor out thru the raised area. Maybe a tenth of an inch. Not the whole area, just the area on a radius. You can eyeball this by putting the rotor on and looking. Both the top and bottom caliper mounting bolt areas need attention. 5 minutes tops. I did this and have NO contact whatsoever.
The plus here is that RB maximized the rotor size PERFECTLY. All you have to do is a tiny bit of filing and you get to run a 1.26 inch thick manly rotor.
Bolt on the caliper mounting bracket. 65 pounds torque.
mount rotor. mount caliper. Torque caliper to caliper mounting bracket bolts to 30 pounds. You will need a 10mm hex socket. Or a 3/8 will do… Holding rotor to hub, slide in pads. Place chrome spring retainer against pads. Place thru bolt tube in channel. Install thru bolt (you will need to push thru bolt tube towards wheel center a bit to line it up w hole. You need a 6 MM hex drive… Apply modest torque (any help here appreciated).
The front brake line install is exactly the same as rear…. Don’t forget to index.
Brake bleeding…
Unless you are contemplating running under the lap record at your favorite track I recommend any DOT 4 brake fluid. Buy a couple of quarts. You want to get all of the old fluid out.
Install caliper mounting bracket. I recommend you grab a Nicholson 12 inch Bastard file and spend no more that 5 minutes tops filing the outboard side of the upright casting as it might/could contact the inside edge of the rotor. You do not have to file much…. Just on a RADIUS from the center of the rotor out thru the raised area. Maybe a tenth of an inch. Not the whole area, just the area on a radius. You can eyeball this by putting the rotor on and looking. Both the top and bottom caliper mounting bolt areas need attention. 5 minutes tops. I did this and have NO contact whatsoever.
The plus here is that RB maximized the rotor size PERFECTLY. All you have to do is a tiny bit of filing and you get to run a 1.26 inch thick manly rotor.
Bolt on the caliper mounting bracket. 65 pounds torque.
mount rotor. mount caliper. Torque caliper to caliper mounting bracket bolts to 30 pounds. You will need a 10mm hex socket. Or a 3/8 will do… Holding rotor to hub, slide in pads. Place chrome spring retainer against pads. Place thru bolt tube in channel. Install thru bolt (you will need to push thru bolt tube towards wheel center a bit to line it up w hole. You need a 6 MM hex drive… Apply modest torque (any help here appreciated).
The front brake line install is exactly the same as rear…. Don’t forget to index.
Brake bleeding…
Unless you are contemplating running under the lap record at your favorite track I recommend any DOT 4 brake fluid. Buy a couple of quarts. You want to get all of the old fluid out.
I did not receive a "caliper mounting bracket" for the front kit. Nor do I see a way for a caliper mounting bracket to fit.
As far as "might/could contact the inside of the rotor", in my case it is more like - will contact the inside of the rotor so that the wheel is completely locked up and doesn't rotate.
The driver's side wheel scrapes through the entire rotation of the rotor but at least it rotates. The passenger side almost seems like its warped as it contacts heavily at certain points and will not rotate by hand at all once the wheel is bolted on. So at that point, its either a fitment issue or a quality problem where they aren't checking their parts before they ship them out.
I'm not sure I feel comfortable enough to run the rotors as is on track at speed. The FD already has pad knockback issues from the wheel bearings kicking back the pads as the bearings move around. What testing has been done to determine if the rotor will contact the steering knuckle for the same reason? It seems like more of a risk with the RB kit than with other kits given those tight tolerances at the steering knuckle.
Beautiful kit but these issues are disconcerting.
Last comment. Both FDs that I've owned had the brake line mounting tabs facing forward. Both 93.
#827
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Year model car
Shock type/brand
Brakeline mounting tab - front or rear
I'll look at mine tonight and post back.
#828
I'm not sure I feel comfortable enough to run the rotors as is on track at speed. The FD already has pad knockback issues from the wheel bearings kicking back the pads as the bearings move around. What testing has been done to determine if the rotor will contact the steering knuckle for the same reason? It seems like more of a risk with the RB kit than with other kits given those tight tolerances at the steering knuckle.
This is something that I personally mentioned to both Howard and Warren at RB. I just want to be clear that I'm still very excited about the kit, but I do not want to be the guy that tests whether or not the rotors will bind against the upright due to flex in the bearings/upright under hard cornering.
I am going to wait on installation until I've seen some testing that makes me feel better about this point. Again, I'm happy that there is a new brake kit for the FD, but I need to be sure that known issues with the FD have been carefully addressed.
And FWIW, my tabs face forward.
-ch
#829
I had to sand 1.5 mm + 0.1mm off my rear pads in order for them to fit without shims. Anybody else have this issue?
My tabs are facing forward, but since I have Tein Coilovers too, I will rotate the shocks.
With the front rotor to caliper mounting ears, I have 2-3mm of clearance, but I wonder how much flex is seen in the system under extreme load?
My tabs are facing forward, but since I have Tein Coilovers too, I will rotate the shocks.
With the front rotor to caliper mounting ears, I have 2-3mm of clearance, but I wonder how much flex is seen in the system under extreme load?
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the other problem related to rotor clearance i believe. i did post an install tip piece and mentioned that you do need to file a minimal amount off the upper and lower knuckle so as to accomodate the large rotor. a real easy job that can be done in 5 minutes of filing.
How much clearance is required? I've seen 2-3mm recommended as the minimum caliper to wheel clearance. Wouldn't this be similar? If so, I have more than 5mins with a file... and would need significant convincing that removing that much material is an appropriate fix.
My Tein HA's have the brake line mounting tab on the front. Likewise for the stock '93 R1 shock.
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You have a problem with your rear calipers, or maybe you are not screwing in the piston all the way in!
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March 92 R1
stock and Tokico Illumina shocks
tabs always in front
I replaced my front EBC REDS with the ET500s which is all that RB makes for the front stock calipers. See my previous tests.
The ET500s are better than the REDS for multiple 60-0 stops as they stopped by over .1 seconds faster.
The brake feel was also better.
stock and Tokico Illumina shocks
tabs always in front
I replaced my front EBC REDS with the ET500s which is all that RB makes for the front stock calipers. See my previous tests.
The ET500s are better than the REDS for multiple 60-0 stops as they stopped by over .1 seconds faster.
The brake feel was also better.
Last edited by cewrx7r1; 07-31-07 at 12:52 AM.
#842
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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there's been discussion about the filing necessary to clear the RB rotors... i thought this might be of some help.
i pulled my caliper and rotor to give you a better idea of what has to be done. please note that you are not compromising strength here as it is just a bit of the bolt boss. notice you do not have to file the whole of the ring around the bolt, only the edge nearest the rotor.
top
![](http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/9568/rb08qe9.jpg)
bottom
![](http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/319/rb11qq1.jpg)
i have logged 700 miles on my RB system and have had no rotor/upright interference whatsoever. clearance is around 1 mm. i could have filed additional but it appears unnecessary. perhaps.... perhaps at the track i will find some contact but if i do i will just grab my file and spend another 5 minutes on it.
bottom line.... no safety issues. little work to get it done. 1.26 inch rotor.
i am still not sure as to the brakeline length. my car is a 93 VIN 669 so it is an early model. i have another set of front shocks that are the same as mine w the tab rearward. but it appears most have the tab forward which requires a longer line.
here's a 93 (early) not mine... front right shock. note R denoting right
![](http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/4355/rb13sl9.jpg)
here's a closeup of the tab
![](http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/9072/rb15mr7.jpg)
here's my right front.... note R on tab
![](http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/2888/p1000468ei6.jpg)
hc
i pulled my caliper and rotor to give you a better idea of what has to be done. please note that you are not compromising strength here as it is just a bit of the bolt boss. notice you do not have to file the whole of the ring around the bolt, only the edge nearest the rotor.
top
![](http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/9568/rb08qe9.jpg)
bottom
![](http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/319/rb11qq1.jpg)
i have logged 700 miles on my RB system and have had no rotor/upright interference whatsoever. clearance is around 1 mm. i could have filed additional but it appears unnecessary. perhaps.... perhaps at the track i will find some contact but if i do i will just grab my file and spend another 5 minutes on it.
bottom line.... no safety issues. little work to get it done. 1.26 inch rotor.
i am still not sure as to the brakeline length. my car is a 93 VIN 669 so it is an early model. i have another set of front shocks that are the same as mine w the tab rearward. but it appears most have the tab forward which requires a longer line.
here's a 93 (early) not mine... front right shock. note R denoting right
![](http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/4355/rb13sl9.jpg)
here's a closeup of the tab
![](http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/9072/rb15mr7.jpg)
here's my right front.... note R on tab
![](http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/2888/p1000468ei6.jpg)
hc
#846
looking at the 2 piece caliper setup howard received (well caliper and mounting bracket anyway), it would be nice if the same one piece caliper setup that the rest of us received in our kits would be [track] tested. otherwise i'm not sure that the testing would be completely valid.
from a QA standpoint, you always want to test with the same product that goes out to the public for various reasons - including legal liability.
from a QA standpoint, you always want to test with the same product that goes out to the public for various reasons - including legal liability.
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#847
FWIW, I've got the Stoptech BBK and the brake lines are not long enough to go around the front of the shock where my 94 OEM shocks and Tokico shocks had the mounting tab. I've been running Advance Design shocks for 6 years or so now with no tab and have never had a problem with the line rubbing.
With the Stoptech's brake lines, they are coated and I zip tied some rubber hose around them in case they would contact the shock. I check this every time I get under the car since last October and there are no signs of rubbing.
Jack
With the Stoptech's brake lines, they are coated and I zip tied some rubber hose around them in case they would contact the shock. I check this every time I get under the car since last October and there are no signs of rubbing.
Jack
#848
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'93 R1 manufactured February '92, Koni Yellows have the tab on the front and I also believe my stock struts did.
>>>Will there be a recall on this or should I have my BBK installed as-is because I just recieved it yesterday?
Thanks
-Andy
>>>Will there be a recall on this or should I have my BBK installed as-is because I just recieved it yesterday?
Thanks
-Andy
#850