FD New Brake Options
#876
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TO AOC007, Andy, how much filing did you have to do on the mounting nubs? we have little real world feedback to the thread so far on this, if yours is ground about the same as Howard and you have that 2mm clear then those of us still making the choice might feel more confident with the grinding route........
Gracer7-rx7 (posting on pg 32) seemed to have more than the minor clearance issue, if Gracer could comment further it would be welcome as well.......
chuck
Gracer7-rx7 (posting on pg 32) seemed to have more than the minor clearance issue, if Gracer could comment further it would be welcome as well.......
chuck
#877
needs more track time
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^Yes, I did. The passenger side would not rotate at all once the wheel was on. When the wheel was off and I tried to spin it by hand, it would touch pretty hard at a certain point. Kinda like an out of round bicycle rim. I suspect that the rotor hat might be out of round but don't know for sure. I'll have to wait until I get the replacement hardware from RB.
The driver's side rotor was a more constant interferance/rubbing against the nub that you referred to.
The driver's side rotor was a more constant interferance/rubbing against the nub that you referred to.
#880
Perpetual Project
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#882
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I'd say we ground about 2mm, I didn't think to measure. On a side note last night I was doin a u-turn a bit fast (full lock) and heard some noise coming from the right front, not sure if it was brake related though.
#884
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The front and rear stainless lines come with the front big brake kit. But Racing Brake sent me a set of front lines that were for a stock caliper not their alum. caliper and the front lines are being recalled anyway so we put the rear lines on the front and let them sit behind the shock and I kept my Goodridge stainless lines that I had before on the stock rear calipers, they worked fine.
#886
needs more track time
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Now that some of you guys have these installed how about some reviews?
I am particularly interested to know how the brake pedal feels overall. Does it feel stiffer?
Does hard braking feel more powerful?
Is the pad knock-back improved?
Inquiring minds wanna know...
I am particularly interested to know how the brake pedal feels overall. Does it feel stiffer?
Does hard braking feel more powerful?
Is the pad knock-back improved?
Inquiring minds wanna know...
#887
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Does hard braking feel more powerful?
-Andy
#891
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I measured the clearance between the RB caliper bracket and rotor with a feeler gauge then ground the factory bracket until it exceeded that measurement. Clearance ended up being around 2mm.
Hopefully, this will ensure the bracket never interferes.
The caliper mounting bolts supplied by RB did not engage the last three threads, so grinding off the boss shouldn't impact anything. I made sure the ground area was well radiused and smooth so not to induce any stress risers.
I'm heading to the track this week, but they are calling for rain. :-(
#892
Re-engineering everything
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Please do post after your track event. As the rotors are floating and the FD hubs/uprights are known to flex, I think we're all very interested to see if you notice any contact.
I'd suggest that you color the metal with a Sharpie so that you can easily see any new wear that may occur.
-ch
I'd suggest that you color the metal with a Sharpie so that you can easily see any new wear that may occur.
-ch
#893
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Please do post after your track event. As the rotors are floating and the FD hubs/uprights are known to flex, I think we're all very interested to see if you notice any contact.
I'd suggest that you color the metal with a Sharpie so that you can easily see any new wear that may occur.
-ch
I'd suggest that you color the metal with a Sharpie so that you can easily see any new wear that may occur.
-ch
Another update, I installed the recall stainless lines and they work well, not as much slack as the goodridges on my stock calipers but still there seems to be enough at full lock. Also I installed brake shims for the front, my pads already had about a thousand miles or so on them (im easy on them on the street) and the pads are pressed against the rotors hard enough that on a slight incline I can let off the brakes and the car stays still...
P.S. Hyperion your surge tank cover seems to be working good I'm looking forward to my next trackday.
-Andy
#894
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Andy, thank you for the feedback and the info. One question, can you provide further info associated with the following quote?...
I can't figure out why you attribute vibration to floating rotors...
Jeff
Jeff
#895
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I was thinking because there is some room for movement between the hat and rotor that it can vibrate a bit. My setup is different now and I am re-breaking it in so I will have to see with time but right now it doesn't seem to be doing it very much.
#896
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Keep us posted.
Jeff
#897
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Nah. The rotors don't actually "float" they are indeed hard mounted to the hat. There really isn't any movement btw the rotor and hat. There shouldn't be *any* vibration from the brakes regardless of the circumstance. You will, I'm sure, feel the pulsation of the slots in the rotors but this is a decidedly different feeling than that of a vibration.
Keep us posted.
Jeff
Keep us posted.
Jeff
And no matter what I do I can't seem to get these damn ET700 pads to not squeak... I have the shims and anti-squeak on now and under light braking they always do, not as bad as before when it was like a symphony but it annoys me. Hopefully they will just brake in or else I will return them.
-Andy
#898
Warming the planet.
Nah. The rotors don't actually "float" they are indeed hard mounted to the hat. There really isn't any movement btw the rotor and hat. There shouldn't be *any* vibration from the brakes regardless of the circumstance. You will, I'm sure, feel the pulsation of the slots in the rotors but this is a decidedly different feeling than that of a vibration.
Keep us posted.
Jeff
Keep us posted.
Jeff
I've gone though a set of EBC yellows on the OEM size two piece RB rotors and am experiencing a vibration if I really push the brakes on the track. I attributed it to over heating the pad material and having a excess pad deposit issue. I was going to push RB to make the 700s for the OEM calipers but now I'm not sure I want them.
Anyone else experiencing this vibration?
Paul
Also, the hat to ring fasteners needed to be re torqued after a couple of track days some of them were loose to the touch.
Last edited by Gadd; 08-20-07 at 11:13 PM.
#899
Lives on the Forum
I was at a driving school recently with a couple friends, one of the instructors (a racer himself) and a novice student with a Skyline GTR with EBC Yellows. This is a fairly easy track on brakes too, but after 4 laps with the instructor at the wheel he'd have brake fade of the pad variety (hard pedal, much reduced stopping power). Happened every time he took that car out. Not good pads, so you probably were overheating them.
#900
Re-engineering everything
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Nah. The rotors don't actually "float" they are indeed hard mounted to the hat. There really isn't any movement btw the rotor and hat. There shouldn't be *any* vibration from the brakes regardless of the circumstance. You will, I'm sure, feel the pulsation of the slots in the rotors but this is a decidedly different feeling than that of a vibration.
Keep us posted.
Jeff
Keep us posted.
Jeff
http://www.zeckhausen.com/Brembo/Rotor_Replacement.htm
But as it results to vibration, I agree that floating rotors shouldn't contribute unless they are improperly installed.
-ch