Hey I am having problems with oil blowing by the seals on the GT35R, what is the recommended pressure that the turbo should be receiving?
I am feeding it through the vertical oil passage using the supplied –3 line and the maximum return size allowable for the return, but am still having problems with blowby because of the engines high pressure.

Don’t think I want to go the ATP restrictor wrought if I can avoid it. It seems much more reasonable to go high flow low pressure instead of restricting it down to 1/16” to get at the proper pressure
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=OIL

What kind of seals do these GT series turbos use for sealing oil?
I read from garrets site that some use piston ring type seals, and a friend told me he thought they used seals similar to main seals. What kind of pressure can they hold up to?
Any ideas?

 

are the oil inlet and outlet perfectly verticle? Sometimes it becomes a problem if it isn't because it's not letting the oil out fast enough

 

Yes they are very very close, maybe tops 5 deg off of vert, I knew his was an issue from talking to Ralph about it.

Do you get any information regarding the recommended feed pressures from your suppliers?

I am running stage 3 oil mods from Rob and talked to him yesterday about it, and he said I need to get in contact with someone that would know the recommended specs on the seals and pressures.

 

You barely need a trickle through the oil feed line.
Don't get overly paranoid about adequate pressure at the oil feed.
Run the restrictor - this will probably solve your problem.


-Ted

 

Right out of garretts book,

oil pressure at oil inlet to be 2.11 kg/sq cm minimum at peak torque speed and above and no lower than .70 kg/sq cm at low idle.

oil outlet should be in direction of gravity within +/- 35 degress oil drain size absolute minimum 1/2"

I would run minimum -10. but 12 would work best by what I've seen.

The "seal" on the turbine end of the shaft is a piston ring, there is no positive oil seal, therefore the drain tube must be free of "goosenecks" or elbows due to drain flow is not under pressure.* The drain tube must return the oil and vent back up the same tube, that is why the size needs to be so much larger than the inlet.* The compressor end seal may also be a piston ring seal or a carbon seal.* If it is a carbon seal, then its more of a positive seal than the piston ring, but we still have the piston ring on the turbine end.*

Gt series turbo are internally restricted Garrett does not recommend restricting them further.

 

I run about 100-120 psi peak pressure and haven't had an issue if that helps as all. Mine's clocked dead on vertical.

 

I'd run the restrictor, it's working on my setup.

 

Before running a restrictor I'd look at your crank case vent and make sure you have sufficient ventalation. How do you have yours ran? I'd run one or possibally two lines straight from the filler neck to the intake. If it helps then you'll probably want to put a catch can on them. Some highly modified cars have to run two crank case lines to get enough vacume in the pan.

hope it helps

 

Instead of restricting the oil inlet, how about making some sort of a bypass? Picture this.... Have a "t" on the oil inlet port of the turbo. One side will have the oil pressure line. The other side will have a restrictor, then leading into the oil pan. This will lower oil pressure but still have the volume. I'd start with something like a .030" restrictor, then go up as needed.

 

Thanks for all the ideas and info guys, especially ZeroR, just what I was looking for.

Is there a place us normal people can get that “book” by garrett that has information regarding garrets GT turbos and technical specifications?

I will be stopping by my local hydraulic shop and see if I can dig up a system that will allow me to keep a relatively high flow, and still get me close to what ZeroR posted for recommended pressures. Perhaps the internal restriction will take over from there

At the suggestion of a very helpful guy over at another site(Thanks Greg), I am thinking it will take a adjustable needle valve inline to get close to the stated range of pressure.
And just for reference for people that like Psi instead of Kg/cm^2, 2.11Kg/cm^2=30Psi, and .7Kg/cm^2=9.96Psi~10Psi
http://www.projects.ex.ac.uk/trol/scol/ccpress.htm

This is how I have the drain hooked up, the SS tubing I used is .625 ID, larger than the actual drain port on the turbo I believe, so I would have thought that it would have worked for free flowing drainage.

 

The problem with using a orifice restrictor in any kind of system I would end up having to make, as I see it is, that it is not infinitely adjustable, and I would be messing with a lot of different sized orifices to hone in on the right one for my application.
The one ATP sells no doubt is for a much lower pressure supply line on piston engines.

Mine is on an already high pressure rotary engine that is running higher than stock pressure. So if I can get a adjustable restriction and put a oil gauge inline after the restriction, I can go with my high flow idea and get real close to the proper pressures that the turbo is supposed to see.

 

Here is what i use, It comes out straight and has a pretty good slant running to the block. I use a straghit -12 coming out and a 45* -12 going into the block. Havnt had any issues with oil getting past the seals yet. Its also a little cocked clockwise cause a bit of stress but nothing that caused me to worry.

 

We had a GT40R on the dyno at one of our tuning session. He was having smoke issues and a few people told him he needed restrictors. I spent 5 minutes redoing his crank case vent and his problem was solved. He just had too much pressure building up in his crank case and the turbo drain line wasnt draining efficiently.

Based on the fact that you dont have an intake in that turbo picture I'm guessing your crank case vent is either going to the uim with a check valve (bad) or going to atmosphere (better but not that great cause it makes your crank case atmospheric pressure instead of vacuum). If you run it to the intake before the turbo and put a catch can on it you'll get the best results cause it'll pull vacuum on the crank case which will greatly help your turbo drain.

EDIT* - Sorry I thought the pic above was your car, I didnt have my screen all the way out and didnt realize someone else posted it. Still though, unless you have a vac line or two going straight from the oil filler neck to the intake then I'd do it just as a test.

Stephen

 

Yeah thats mine, I have a filter for it but just didnt have it at the time of the pic. But right now Both of the nipple on my oil filler neck are open. But i will try and hook them up to the UIM, thanks for the advice.

 

Who made that retrofit idler pulley???
It's a very good idea for running underdrive pulley sets on the FD 13B-REW!!!


-Ted

 

Ted, I think I saw in a thead that he made that himself. Pretty cool idea.

Has anyone looked at a RX8 water pump? I believe they are reversed flow from ours and that the belt runs on the other side. If so, it might make a good swap, I believe it bolts up the same so it should swap right over.

Stephen

 

i was going to say that same thing

much more contact surface on the wp.

Is that a FC main pully? It also looks like the serp tensioner is not being used for the pwr steering/AC