I dont have any way of recording the AITs, but the inlet to the core is hot and the outlet is cold after some hard driving. Once I get the Rtek 2.1, I will be able to give ya'll some data. Boost response is great.

 

Figure I'd share, I put together my own A/W setup with some frozenboost.com bits and others, and found this for a pump: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...6452&viewitem= Same type as the 401FC that frozenboost.com sells, but flows more and is cheaper to boot. Going to use the stock 2nd gen windshield washer reservoir for a water reserve/overflow, as well as icebox for drag days, the stock WW pump is the same diameter as the inlet on the 403C. Pics to come

 

Any updates on this. Did anyone ever get IATs? Also, Trots, were you able to get pictures?

 

Picture of the A/W in place. Just need to mount my pump, heat exchanger and wire it. Should be finished this weekend.

 

I got home the other day and saw fluid under my 7. I had not driven it for a week or two. I opened the hood and saw it was coming from the filler drain nipple. When I took the cap off the system was pressurized and squirted all over. The lines were bulging from the pressure. Once I got the cap off the lines returned to normal. What would cause the system to pressurize? I refilled the system and put a catch can in and in a couple of days the catch can was full. WTF? Is the distilled water causing something?

 

heated water needs a place to go. also... remove it and pressure check it.

 

do you have the rad cap filler neck for it? If so, then you're fine, it will bleed off the pressure above 17 or whatever psi.

 

Pics of a WAIC system on this NA to turbo conversion we did-



Air filter and intake



water tank in spare tire well



water tank on bench-



Water fill and other plumbing in the engine bay, lines run to heat exchanger in nose, to the water tank and the IC core itself, holds a lot of water works very well.

 

The water is at room temps and the car was turned off. Why would it pressurize by it self? The filler cap is .9 bar. Here is a pic before I put on the drain line comming off the filler cap.

 

If you re running your system "closed" then you will build pressure and have to vent it to a recovery tank like any other closed cooling system. If you run a vented sytem with room in the system for expansion of the coolant you wil build less pressure but will lose a bit over time.

 

So if water goes to the catch can from the filler release port, will it get sucked back into the system, like my radiator overflow tank does?

 

yep. vacuum works on springs the same as positive pressure.

 

Well the relief port let fluid out but not back in, so I relocated the filler to the highest point in the system and plugged the relief port. I added a clear hose in its old location so I can see flow and air bubbles. I ran the system with the fill cap off and added fluid untill the air bubbles were gone, then I put the cap back on. I think the system was pressurizing due to air in the system and the filler to low in the system. Gets up to 105 F in my garage, very hot in Texas right now. I will post new pic when I get home from work.

 

Hi guys,
I wanted to try a W2A setup for my daily driven FD and I'm not one to listen to what people "think" it will or wont do. As you guys know actual data out there is a bit thin, so I thought I would give one a go.
Here is the link to where I am up to so far: (www) fdrx7.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4753&page=4

(sorry low post count on this forum!!

I am yet to fit the new front bar, with appropriate openings for the coolers, and I dont have a tank either, so water capacity is (I believe) too low. Even with the radiators seeing LESS than 50% open area the temps are around 20c above ambient while cruising.

Will post updates when the new bar goes on and I will hopefully incorporate a water tank.

Cheers!!

 

Here are some pics of mine , https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/air-liquid-intercoler-894666/ , it is now complete and working absolutely beautiful .I did a b it of tuning on the dyno and the tuner swore that my IAT sensor was bad ! temps never got over 35*C @ 15 psi . I ended up adding a secondary cooler (a turbo 2 oil cooler,) , mainly to take advantage of the gaping hole that was left at the front of my car (and to also improve on the systems performance) ! The amount of air flow to the radiator was soo huge that it was actually overcooling the motor ! At cruising speed on the highway , water temps would hit 68 *C , causing my ECU to turn on the rev limiter , I had to keep boosting to get it up in the 70's but it would fall right back off .Eventually I had to put back in a thermostat ! Just another advantage of a good AW set up !

 

pics of what my set up has / will have



CX racing sells the IC ^above^ for $199. I also got the 3" intake tubing from there for $12 per tube, they have 45 degree bends to 180 degree bends.





^This water pump^ is rated at 32 gpm or 1920 gph with less than a 4 amp draw

All of this will be plumed with steal braided lines and 10AN fittings. Im also thinking about mounting water squirters in front of the heat exchanger, but ill see how it works without it.

 

damn $320 bucks for that pump.

 

the pump is cheaper at robear racing

 

I went with the Bosch Cobra pump for mine. Not too bad on price, and is used in some OEM apps, so cant be too bad!

 

i went with a bait well marine pump, been 10yrs, still works.

 

Hows everyones system working?? UPDATES!!

 

Still waiting on my car to get done

 

LOL x2.. mines still chillin upside down

 

Well now that my car is finally finished (finished....no such thing...its an FD), I thought I would start a thread here about the results that Im getting with the sort-of non standard intake/intercooler I thought I'd try.

My setup can be viewed here at my build page : w w w .fdrx7.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4753&page=5
I did a bit of low revs-full boost stuff the other day and found it interesting that so far the intake temps do not move in doing so. Im sure once it is fully sorted and I give it a good full-throttle blast through many gears I may see otherwise but so far, stable as.

The first part is the airtemp inside the airbox. I used a modified standard intercooler duct and directed it between the radiator and intercooler. The intake is a 4inch duct into the side of a modified standard airbox. It has a 4inch K&N inside and has a decent duct from the main front bumper opening (you can see it in the pics).

Temps measured in there are around ambient +5-7c. (30c outside/35-37 inside). It obviously soaks a bit of heak through the plastic, (which is wrapped in 6mm thermobrake) when it passes through the radiator air. At idle it gradually rises, I let it go to 60c before I got bored! But when moving it gets it down to normal pretty quick.

The other measurement I have taken so far is the water temp of the water in the intercooler. I have a resevoir after the intercooler, before the water is passed through the 2 small coolers in front of the oil coolers. During driving the temp in here was pretty much the same as the CAI. When boosting (low revs still-5000ish) the temp rises, after a small delay, by about 2c, which in turn after cruising returns to normal.

Problem I have, is that my intake measured on the PFC is about 50c, or roughly ambient +20c, or if you take ambient as the CAI temp, ambient+13-15c.
However, whether its colder (25ish) or hotter (32ish) it is always 45-50c intake. Also after idling for a while or parked and temps reach 70c, once driving it returns to 50c. This is also the temp that it did not move from during boosting, and I have the fast -reacting IAT sensor too.

What I think is happening is heatsoak from the engine is soaking the hell out of the UIM and the elbow. I think the intercooler may in fact be working well, but once everything is stable, it cannot get any better than that temp due to the soak. I can hold my hand on the outlet pipe of the intercooler, but fat-chance doing that on the elbow or manifold.

Does anyone have intake temp figures of before and after a vented bonnet?

 

I switched over to a bigger heat exchanger and it is keeping the water cool longer. My first H.E. was 12"x12"x2", my new one is 24"x8"x2.5". Outside air temp was 80F, after 30 minutes of hard driving the MAS was seeing 98F and the AIT was at 128F. I think an ice box would add more volume to my system and make it better. So far no problems.