I have just been offered a t04 garret that has .60 compressor and 1.32. im only thinking about upgrading from my hybrid as im losing boost at higher rpm. starts dropping around 4000 from 12.5psi to 10 psi by 6000.

Just wondering if this will cause me too much lag?

any help or advise would be great.. turbo is dirt cheap

 

Stock port engine? what engine is it? a little more info would be nice...:-p

 

s4 motor, extend port, microtech, 500hp fuel pump, 660 secondarys, aftermarket gtr fmic, light flywheel, full 3 inch exhaust no cat

 

Very laggy and annoying in a street car. Tried it before. So, the exhaust housing of the turbo was swapped for a Turbonetics .81 exhaust housing. You can get one for about $150.
.96 is pretty much the norm.

 

let's put it this way: on what i would presume to be a similar style port, my .96 a/r 62-1 (granted, it is a turbonetics turbo without the ceramic ballbearing option) doesnt REALLY get going until about 4,000 rpms. with a 1.32, you'll probably trick yourself into thinking that your car is slower than it really is. :P

 

uhhh you don't have enough fuel for this anyway. That's enough fuel for maybe 250whp, unless you meant 1680 secondarys? I would do 720/1000, 550/1680, or 720/1680, depending on how much power you plan on making. You have a standalone to control it so go for it. I use 720/1680 with a 60-1 .96 hotside, .70 compressor.

.60 compressor and 1.32 hotside seems like a mismatch. Better off with .82 , .96, or 1.0 hotside with .70 compressor and at least a 60-1 equivalent wheel or larger.

I wouldn't put a 1.32 on anything less than a bridgeport personally.

 

nope only 660cc secondarys although im only running lowish boost 10-14 psi.. i have a wideband installed and have plently of fuel at redline at 9 psi.. although now im told my hybrid turbo should be able to flow 15psi till redline.. i am running a 44mm tial wastegate but suffering from boost drop after 4000 rpm.. would it be wise to change my feed to wastegate after intercooler incase my pressure drop is through there? i can get 13 psi at 3000 rpm this is normal??

 

It's not a matter of how much boost you're running (psi), it's a matter of how much hp you are putting out.

 

A 1.32 A/R turbine housing will work on a high overlap motor with a tuned-length, divided manifold. I only know of one successful setup like that and it's Comitatus' car. I tried a 1.32 A/R P-trim on my T70 and it was way, way laggy even on my half bridgeport. I swapped it over to a 0.96 and it's much better. For your setup, I'd recommend a 0.81 or 0.84 A/R.

B

 

+1.

This is a common misunderstanding the average enthusiast has -- it's easy to get hung up on some (x) psi boost figure but it's only one part of a larger equation. The thing we ought to be measuring is mass air flow. In the case of a compressor on a turbocharger, it's the output of air measured in lbs/min at (x) pressure ratio. Don't get hung up on trying to hit some target boost pressure. Instead, focus on the power you want, then figure out the amount of airflow needed, then find a turbo that'll do the job.

B

 

The reason I'm on about boost pressure is because I don't want more than 1bar of pressure going through my motor for reliabilty reasons. I'm thinking of getting around .82 hotside and .7 compressor now. will upgrade injectors for this too and hoping 500hp pump can handle it. not concerned about hp figure but it made 290 atw on 9 psi stock turbo so 350+ shouldnt be too much of an ask with larger turbo?

 

.81 undivided .84 divided will get you a good overall responsive 500whp capable car on that frame turbo. I wouldn't look any larger than a 1.0 divided maybe .96 undivided if you don't mind a little loss on the low end.

 

for me, a 1.32 is good, thats why i have one. its also on a pp.
for you about a .8-.9 is good, if you want response to be kept.

having a twin scroll manifold and the necessary hardware to go with it is also a factor. That as well as the amount of intercooler tubing you have.

keep in mind that a 500hp fuel pump for a piston engine is about a 400 hp pump in a rotary.. due to the lower B.S.F.C.

defiantly need to throw on those 1680cc injectors as well, without them, you are wasting your money on all the other stuff.

 

Ok.. so ill wait till next year so I can can have it all sorted.. around .84 turbine.. I'll make up a surge tank and throw an external pump to make sure i Have enough fuel at that end and soem bigger injectors at the other end.. shoul i consider a FPR as well?

Sorry i don't know what B.S.F.C is

Should be over 400hp+ at this stage? that will be plenty for me want to keep spool and not lose top end

 

Brake Specific Fuel Consumption.

Basically the efficiency at which your engine can convert the potential energy that your fuel has into mechanical motion.

You need more fuel per horsepower on a rotary, so a 500HP rated fuel pump on a piston engine won't be good for 500HP on a rotary engine.

 

what fuel setups do you have?

 

well you just need to multiply the rated horsepower by .85 and that is a rough estimate for how much fuel a rotary will consume. so a 1000 hp pump for a piston engine is only good for around 850 hp on a rotary.

you defiantly need a f.p.r. for your system. you will also need all the correct sized fuel lines, throughout the entire setup.

 

Chances are you have either a 57 or 60 trim TO4E( or similiar). If that is the case .96/1.0 will be good up to 25psi( assuming its a P trim). Past that exhaust back pressure will be too high.

 

This is what im looking at


For 13b model GT37 with GT P trim turbine .7-.84 is ideal for 1-1.3bar. its basically same spec as garrett and hks T04S.
Its suitable for 400-450whp with good spool.

 

a gt35r is good for 500rwhp at around 20psi

you should be able to get more out of a gt37