indio84

iTrader: (7)

Well after a 3 month journey my car was finished, been driving enjoying it these last few weeks and it's fun but somethings are starting bother me. and I thought there are a lot of very experience tuners/rx7 lovers that can give me there opinion on the maps I have.

I have a half bridge port 13b rew fd3s
t61 turbo
3inch down pipe
3.5 inch exhaust system
550/1680
stock fp
fuel pr 41 psi (just finished rewire fuel pump and it is def. richer)


I have been reading a lot on this forum, and by taking a closer look at my dyno graph my car was running lean with afr being so lean at the end especially with our crap **** fuel I get around here.
but i first want you guy's to give me your opinion on the fuel and timing maps.

and after that we will go from there.

oh and i think if you would like to see have to down load ems software here
Latest Stinger S-2R Software (V 2.26.0.0)
http://www.enginemanagementsystem.com/frameindex.htm

tune file

http://www.speedyshare.com/files/275...une_14_psi.EM2

any constructive criticism is welcome, any advice, helpful info

dyno



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


just screen shots



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

indio84

iTrader: (7)

bump

indio84

iTrader: (7)

ok I did some road tuning a few days ago, result now the idle afr is 15-15.5 used to be 12-12.2

cruise is @ 14.7- 15.5 depending on the load.

what do you guys think

under boost aft was adjusted just a bit becuase the not enough highway road and was getting dangerous
11.8 afr just pumpfuel and with waterinj On 10.9 afr

wil datalog with my zeitronix and post a screen shot soon.

what do you guys think so far about the afr?

and also when I let off the throthle it goes in vacuum what is the afr suppose to be? mine goes to 20+ afr I have no clue if that's ok becuase it's in vacuum

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

Running lean in cruise will not hurt your motor. You can run as lean as the car will physically run in cruise. That dyno graph is way to lean for pump fuel imo. The 10.9 will water inj is perfect. I would shoot for 11.1 under boost.

elturbonitroso

i woulld add fuel on that map on the laod part something like 12.5 at 0 psi like 11.5 up to 15 psi and 11.0 after 15 psi.

indio84

iTrader: (7)

so finally got a chance to data log with my zeitronix,

did most 3rd gear pull and some 4th gear but rAN OUT OF HIGHWAY.

3rd gear till 72k


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


3rd gear 82krpm


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

4th gear 56krpm



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

4th gear 63k rpm



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

indio84

iTrader: (7)

water inj is on

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

Looks decent. Why is your tps not reading 100 though?

indio84

iTrader: (7)

Tps not connected

indio84

iTrader: (7)

ok did some data logging with the ems s2r yesterday in 2nd gear. wheel spin etc etc. but what bothers me is the timing and pressure can anyone take a look and give me their opinion.

especially the pressure just doesn't seem right to me.

will make some more logs but in 3rd and 4th.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

indio84

iTrader: (7)

ok another question.

the ems has anti lag feature and i would like to set it up, how is a safe way to set it?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

indio84

iTrader: (7)

I'm off today with not much to do

can someone look over my timing maps any opinions?

tuned maps



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


base maps i got with the ems



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

indio84

iTrader: (7)

come on people any suggestions? the most important thing i want to learn is the timing, I don"t dare touch it but if if anyone can tell me if I understand it correctly.

the trail timing is actually the split? if not how do I calculate the split

AND at higher boost should it be given more split or less split ?

as I have it now the car goes from 15 trail timing in vacuum to 8 under boost in high rpms

AND lead timing goes from 27 lead timing in vacuum to about 15 lead under boost and high rpms

if anyone can just give me a quick explanations i would appreciated.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

My general rule of thumb for a conservative, safe baseline is 27-32 at 0 psi and 11-13 at 15 psi leading. Split around 3* at 0 psi and 12 at 15 psi. That, again, would be a generally safe place to start on pump fuel. Many factors will allow you to get more aggressive.

indio84

iTrader: (7)

thanks for the reply ludwig ,

i search a little bit and this thread cleared up a few of my questions about split

RXJJang

https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-forum-47/powerfc-timing-adjustments-base-mod-map-177530/


the split is just the difference between leading and trailing

indio84

iTrader: (7)

http://youtu.be/_RweQwtxN_Q

indio84

iTrader: (7)

hey can anyone confirm that I have it ? that the actual timing split is just the difference between the leading and trailing?

indio84

iTrader: (7)

street tune map


http://www.2shared.com/file/1THzNVJ5/street_tune.html

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I haven't installed the Stinger EMS software yet to look at the latest map, I'm just going off the screenshots you posted a while back.

Do you have any dyno sheets (even on an old tune) that shows the torque? Or do you have an idea where you are making peak torque at least? This is important because it help you get an idea of where you where you need to be careful with the timing. It's best to think about the timing map 3 dimensionally. Maybe I should put some stuff together about this on the Power FC tuning group I am now moderating. Timing split is leading - trailing in degrees BTDC. So at idle an 86+ 13B engine will run -5 degrees BTDC on the leading and -20 degrees BTDC trailing when setting idle according to the pulley. That's a split of 15 degrees. Older engines had the leading mark at TDC and the trailing mark at -20 degrees BTDC, for a split of 20 degrees at idle. Rx-8 Renesis engines actually run negative split at idle, with the trailing firing before the leading.

Do you have the dynojet dyno run files? It'd be interesting to play with the smoothing and correction factors to see how it looks. From the perspective of picking up power, you are basically running a flat timing curve from 5500 rpm up. You could ramp the timing more, but you really should be on a dyno when you do that.

Barry Bordes

Raymond (arghx) is correct being concerned about timing at peak torque. Going lean there will not help either.
Barry

indio84

iTrader: (7)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

20~30 %methanol 70% water

? better



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

stop and go trafic



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

just cruising in 4th gear

indio84

iTrader: (7)

going to do little tuning tonight, just found how to map trace that should help me out on the street

indio84

iTrader: (7)

ok finally back some good news and bad news.

bad news, clutch or something under the car exploded.

but good news had a chance to data log and iat sensor showed 48celsuis under
boost , so water injection working good.
also made little adjustment to lead timing.

but what I did find strange is full boost ~5800 rpm, never really got a chance
to really data log it. 1psi start by ~3800rpm builds up slowly to 14psi, and it
seems i have boost creep to 15.5 psi above 5800rpm.

datalog file
http://www.2shared.com/file/8u30scAK..._3rd_gear.html



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Trots*88TII-AE*

iTrader: (11)

I don't like putting up advice in the public forum regarding tuning and timing, everyone and their dog feels like an expert and I don't feel like getting chirped. So...


You can go a little more aggressive with the timing and narrow up the split in vacuum. Try running zero split until you get into boost to see how much more responsive it is. Start adding split after you get positive pressure. Split is a little debated under boost, but I like to run at least 10* split while in boost, but that's a personal choice. You may want to retard a couple degrees of lead timing at peak torque like mentioned earlier, just to be safe. Understand that it's hard to give advice about tuning through a computer screen, if you have any doubts go see an experienced tuner, otherwise it's a bit of a learning curve. LOL

Good luck.

P.S. What kind of turbo/manifold are you running? By the log it looks a little lazy getting into boost, you can try cutting the split out like I said above, or if the Stinger EMS will allow it, even tune negative split in vacuum. Here's a good thread on negative split: https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/negative-split-443709/ (page 3 has some timing maps)

ErnieT

iTrader: (2)

And 11.8 a/f is not lean so don't worry about it. Keep your timing conservative and you'll run forever.