RXJJang

iTrader: (52)

I've been doing some forum "research" on the PowerFC and one issue that has been brought up, but not thoroughly discussed is the issue of advanced timing that the Base Mod maps (which come with new PFCs) seem to have. I did a comparison (http://pb.kenjim.com/pfc/) like many of you probably have between the "base stock" (older version) and the "base mod" and discovered how different the timing was between the two. This issue was also brought up by "kwikrx7" (https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=42163).

I don't have access to a dyno/wideband until the summer nor do I have a datalogit; so I was wondering if anyone could help me out with adjusting the "base mod" ignition maps (which seem to be too high) in order to prevent popping my motor until I can fine tune it later. If you have any maps that would be great as well. My revelant mods are an intake and full exhaust.

If anything I'd like to continue a dialogue on this matter for all of our education.

Thanks in advance!!!

93BlackFD

yeah, which map actually comes on the PFC? the base stock or base mod?

RXJJang

iTrader: (52)

I believe the older version 2.0x came with the base stock maps, while the new ones 5.0x+ have the base mod maps.

twokrx7

iTrader: (1)

Maps are available even through this forum, take a look at the old threads and pick up a Commander. You can remove all the negative splits and if you want to be conservative just retard the timing a few degrees in the boost cells.

Drive around with the Commander on peak hold and watch your knock values. Learn your engine's behaviour and you will be better prepared when you start tuning.

phlanigan

You're correct that the v5.x PFCs come with the Base Mod map.

There are two cells with negative split at P4/N18 and P6/N16 on the base mod map. Make sure that if you decide to retard the leading ignition timing at boost that you keep a reasonable amount of split to be safe. The stock split is around 10-13 degrees at high boost, and I've lowered mine to 8 degrees with no increase in knock and a slight increase in power (measured by dyno). From what I've read, I believe a number of people keep the leading timing under 20 degrees at stock boost levels, and under 15 degrees at higher levels.

Badog

Don't mess with it (too much) until you can test/baseline the AFR/performance of the car on the dyno. Yeah, you can take timing out but be careful...you probably have a lean spot at about/before N14 P14 and are pig rich after P15.

Getting a TEWB O2 is a great investment.

RXJJang

iTrader: (52)

Thanks for the help so far!

I was on the other forum and a similar discussion came up. "Dragon" posted his ignition maps, correcting for the overly advanced timing. I hope this helps anyone else who has similar questions. If you see anything wrong with these maps let us know; however, Dragon has been running these maps without problems.

Leading



Trailing



Split

Badog

Well, unless you know what HIS N row is adjusted to, be careful. You might want to grab that screen and insert it on this thread too. Not to mention the base and inj correction factors.

Everyone's car is different. What is piggie rich on dragon's car maybe a popper on my car. Personally, I don't like the way that IGL and IGT map would behave on my car with my mods.

Get a Datalogit and TEWB O2, do it the right way. The short cut IS the right way.

RXJJang

iTrader: (52)

93BlackFD

what is the boost setting there

at cell 20 it's 24000, what does that mean??

Badog

Not to be mean, but you're going to help someone tune their car of the 'net and you're asking that question?

Badog

I was told I was too mean:

Check out the manual.
10000 = 1.0 kg/cm2
20000 = 2.0 kg/cm2

93BlackFD

i'm a master at tuning the idle out

it's an aquired skill

fuel correction i am learning now

Badog

A true master is the one who is never done learning and does not make proclamations.

tfhuth

:Yoda voice on: True it is :Yoda voice off:

Tom