S366 Fitment
#32
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I was looking at it closely and it looks like the compressor will hit the frame.
I spoke with arthur with the YouTube famous videos and he put a slit into the frame to clear it.
i'm thinking maybe an extra t4 flange will bring the turbo high enough to clear.
keep us posted on that David.
#34
Eh
iTrader: (56)
I was looking at it closely and it looks like the compressor will hit the frame.
I spoke with arthur with the YouTube famous videos and he put a slit into the frame to clear it.
i'm thinking maybe an extra t4 flange will bring the turbo high enough to clear.
keep us posted on that David.
I spoke with arthur with the YouTube famous videos and he put a slit into the frame to clear it.
i'm thinking maybe an extra t4 flange will bring the turbo high enough to clear.
keep us posted on that David.
#35
Not yet. Had some trouble getting the marmon flange but I finally got it.
Also a few things I'm fixing on my FD at the same time that have been bugging me. Oil leaks, squeaky stuff, stupid wiring, changing boost controllers, larger intercooler, replace AC condenser
My girlfriend has been bugging me to get her turbovert finished enough to start it so there's that.
Oh yeah, to top it off I'm trying to get the very first 24 Hours of LeMons FD caged, running and ready. Its a real shitbox and needs lots of attention too.
I do all my work outside in a gravel driveway and its been kinda chilly and dark lately when I get home during the week.
/whining
#38
Eh
iTrader: (56)
Dan,
Is that with the HKS cast manifold? I received a pm yesterday stating it would not fit as it would hit the inner fender/frame. Is yours actually touching? Personally I wouldnt run it if it was touching as any vibration in the engine will cause a terrible rattle. Not to mention probably high unreliable knock readings and other issues.
Is that with the HKS cast manifold? I received a pm yesterday stating it would not fit as it would hit the inner fender/frame. Is yours actually touching? Personally I wouldnt run it if it was touching as any vibration in the engine will cause a terrible rattle. Not to mention probably high unreliable knock readings and other issues.
#39
First, yes I know I work slow.
Turbo fitment went great except will probably end up making a new heater hard line. For now, the stock one got a longer soft hose and I zip tied it out of the way.
Since I'm in the middle of so many other projects on this car I hope to be able to drive it in a week or so:
I went from China Speed M-spec Knock off IC to a Greddy 3 row so need to trim the bumper just a bit more.
Need to figure out if I can live with that Type R BOV perched precariously over my hot battery terminal or if a piece of rubber between them (just in case) will let me sleep at night.
I noticed my front sway bar bushings are non existant so ordered some polyurethane ones and waiting on them before putting the undertray back on.
AC system was evacuated since I replaced my old beat up piece of **** condenser with a new kinda beat up less shitty condenser. I was a cheap, lazy bastard and reused my old o-rings and hoped it wouldn't leak. Well, it does. Its easier to fix this with the undertray off too.
My girlfriend makes me work on her Turbo Convertible when she's around so there it that too. I was supposed to have it running last September but I rolled the LeMons RX2 over in a race, and broke my arm in a few places. My arm still aches so I like to do my wrenching in short sessions.
My 24 Hours of LeMons FD should be back from being caged in the next few days and it has to be running by the first week of May.
I'm rally racing in Mexico the last week of April.
I'll get there.
Promise.
#41
I think it could be made to work better with a tubing bender and some persuasion - but flipping it upside down wouldn't help too much.
Putting it under the turbo like MazdaSpeedDan might be a viable option too!
Its not that bad as it is, I'll get around to fixin it.
Putting it under the turbo like MazdaSpeedDan might be a viable option too!
Its not that bad as it is, I'll get around to fixin it.
#47
Rotary Enthusiast
i am having charge pipe issues with my s366 and 90* housing.
i cant seem to make the bend work with my rx7store greddy knock off FMIC.
i see in the picture above that the hot side IC pip that goes around the rad is 2 pieces on yours, mine is only 1. so i had a fabricator friend over to make some pie cuts to try and make it work but still couldn't get the right angle. But i am using a track forged manifold that may sit higher then others.
i cant seem to make the bend work with my rx7store greddy knock off FMIC.
i see in the picture above that the hot side IC pip that goes around the rad is 2 pieces on yours, mine is only 1. so i had a fabricator friend over to make some pie cuts to try and make it work but still couldn't get the right angle. But i am using a track forged manifold that may sit higher then others.
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