Single Turbo RX-7's Questions about all aspects of single turbo setups.

S366 Fitment

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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 09:42 AM
  #26  
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I have some hoses to move around and am working on a few proects simultaneously so excuse some of the clutter:

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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 09:52 AM
  #27  
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BAM!

S366 fitment cost:

S366: Six Fiddy Shipped
OBX / Megan / SSAC style ebay manifold: $100 ish (already had this)
Synapse 50MM Wastegate: $300 Shipped (already had this)
Marmon Flange and Clamp: $80 shipped
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 10:43 AM
  #28  
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From: spring hill fl.
looks to fit ok. congrats man.

id like to fit this turbo on an hks cast but i'm sure it won't clear without a spacer of some sort.
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 10:48 AM
  #29  
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Maybe this ebay manifold its diferent than the one Jorge used on his S366 but his did touch the frame, he had to weld another spacer on top of the manifold in order to clear on his car, anyways great that it worked for you.
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 10:53 AM
  #30  
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From: spring hill fl.
might be hit or miss on the manifolds
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 12:08 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by danameisoj
looks to fit ok. congrats man.

id like to fit this turbo on an hks cast but i'm sure it won't clear without a spacer of some sort.
I will be trying to fit this turbo on an HKS cast manifold within the next 4 weeks, maybe sooner if time allows.
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 01:02 PM
  #32  
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From: spring hill fl.
Originally Posted by djseven
I will be trying to fit this turbo on an HKS cast manifold within the next 4 weeks, maybe sooner if time allows.

I was looking at it closely and it looks like the compressor will hit the frame.
I spoke with arthur with the YouTube famous videos and he put a slit into the frame to clear it.
i'm thinking maybe an extra t4 flange will bring the turbo high enough to clear.


keep us posted on that David.
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 06:37 AM
  #33  
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From: spring hill fl.
Hey 7dust, didyou get the car running yet?
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 08:42 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by danameisoj
I was looking at it closely and it looks like the compressor will hit the frame.
I spoke with arthur with the YouTube famous videos and he put a slit into the frame to clear it.
i'm thinking maybe an extra t4 flange will bring the turbo high enough to clear.


keep us posted on that David.
We listed our house Tuesday for sale and it is already under contract to close in 4 weeks, that is great of course but will delay testing. I figured it would take months to sell and I would have time to finish the car. I may still be able to test fit it before we move but it will be cutting it close.
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 11:39 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by danameisoj
Hey 7dust, didyou get the car running yet?

Not yet. Had some trouble getting the marmon flange but I finally got it.

Also a few things I'm fixing on my FD at the same time that have been bugging me. Oil leaks, squeaky stuff, stupid wiring, changing boost controllers, larger intercooler, replace AC condenser

My girlfriend has been bugging me to get her turbovert finished enough to start it so there's that.

Oh yeah, to top it off I'm trying to get the very first 24 Hours of LeMons FD caged, running and ready. Its a real shitbox and needs lots of attention too.

I do all my work outside in a gravel driveway and its been kinda chilly and dark lately when I get home during the week.

/whining
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 08:21 PM
  #36  
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7dust, sent you a pm buddy.
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 11:45 PM
  #37  
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Its a tight fit, mine was literally against the fender, I also had to move a water hose beneath the turbo.

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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 10:07 AM
  #38  
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Dan,

Is that with the HKS cast manifold? I received a pm yesterday stating it would not fit as it would hit the inner fender/frame. Is yours actually touching? Personally I wouldnt run it if it was touching as any vibration in the engine will cause a terrible rattle. Not to mention probably high unreliable knock readings and other issues.
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 10:20 AM
  #39  
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First, yes I know I work slow.

Turbo fitment went great except will probably end up making a new heater hard line. For now, the stock one got a longer soft hose and I zip tied it out of the way.

Since I'm in the middle of so many other projects on this car I hope to be able to drive it in a week or so:

I went from China Speed M-spec Knock off IC to a Greddy 3 row so need to trim the bumper just a bit more.

Need to figure out if I can live with that Type R BOV perched precariously over my hot battery terminal or if a piece of rubber between them (just in case) will let me sleep at night.

I noticed my front sway bar bushings are non existant so ordered some polyurethane ones and waiting on them before putting the undertray back on.

AC system was evacuated since I replaced my old beat up piece of **** condenser with a new kinda beat up less shitty condenser. I was a cheap, lazy bastard and reused my old o-rings and hoped it wouldn't leak. Well, it does. Its easier to fix this with the undertray off too.

My girlfriend makes me work on her Turbo Convertible when she's around so there it that too. I was supposed to have it running last September but I rolled the LeMons RX2 over in a race, and broke my arm in a few places. My arm still aches so I like to do my wrenching in short sessions.

My 24 Hours of LeMons FD should be back from being caged in the next few days and it has to be running by the first week of May.

I'm rally racing in Mexico the last week of April.

I'll get there.

Promise.
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 09:34 PM
  #40  
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I guess someone should have spoke up and just told you to flip the hard heater line upside down.
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 10:58 AM
  #41  
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I think it could be made to work better with a tubing bender and some persuasion - but flipping it upside down wouldn't help too much.

Putting it under the turbo like MazdaSpeedDan might be a viable option too!

Its not that bad as it is, I'll get around to fixin it.
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 03:49 PM
  #42  
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When you flip the hard line upside down it runs the lines beneath the turbo and still hugs the frame rail. It is the common fix for that problem with big single kits and is really nice and hidden afterwords and is more out of the way of the heat from the turbine housing.
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 05:32 PM
  #43  
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Anybody tried the 366 on a greddy T78 manifold?
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 01:01 AM
  #44  
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So dan, you made it work on the hks t4 mani?
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 07:16 AM
  #45  
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ebay mani worked
Attached Thumbnails S366 Fitment-brick-20120912-00083.jpg  
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 01:07 AM
  #46  
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Will it work with A-Spec long runner manifold?
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 09:41 AM
  #47  
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From: hsv al
i am having charge pipe issues with my s366 and 90* housing.

i cant seem to make the bend work with my rx7store greddy knock off FMIC.

i see in the picture above that the hot side IC pip that goes around the rad is 2 pieces on yours, mine is only 1. so i had a fabricator friend over to make some pie cuts to try and make it work but still couldn't get the right angle. But i am using a track forged manifold that may sit higher then others.
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 02:05 PM
  #48  
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From: trinidad
what size turbine are u all using on the 366? .91/1.00/1.10??
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