Earl's 9919BFH is a 14mm 1.5 pitch male to -4AN male adapter.

It can be seen at : http://www.amstreetrod.com/9919BFAERL.php4.

It can be used to attach an oil line directly to either the front side housing where the Mazda banjo bolt is, or to the end of the stock Mazda oil line.

It can do both because the 14mm male end also contains a female tapered compression fitting like the stock Mazda line from the turbo.

A-SPEC could use this to their benefit.

 

another place that sells them is www.anplumbing.com they ship pritty quick too
edit: i guess they went out of busness or something, the website is gone

 

I used that same fitting for my single turbo oil feed line. Its a very nice piece, screws right into the front cover. I found a nitrile o ring that fit nice and snug so I used it with the fitting. Damonb help me locate the fitting. Such a simple fitting, but spares the complication.

 

do any of you have a pic of it installed?? im in the process of making this same like...

Thanks!

 

you should use a crush washer, not an o-ring

 

boostgasm is right, use a copper crush washer mine started leaking after about 50miles. I'll see if I can post a pic later for you.

 

Check this out, guys:

http://bdc.genxracing.com/BuildingTu...s_FC3SFD3S.txt

And also for pictures:

http://bdc.genxracing.com/BuildingTu...D3S/index.html

Thanks for the fitting update for the 3rd gen, Chuck. I need to get off my rear and update my file for that.

B

 

Here it is attached to the stock oil line outlet.

 

thats the feed side right?? what i want to know is what size it is.. the stock one i mean.. what is the part number of the fitting that you used over there??

Thanks! a lot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-Roman

 

I attached a pic of the fitting mounted at the block outlet (bottom right hand corner of pic)

I did not have very good experiences with www.amstreetrod.com... I'd order items and they did a lot of substituting of "equivalent" items(sometimes "homemade")

Anyway, hope the pic helps.

 

I used the stock Mazda oil line and banjo bolt because my engine was already built and did not want to remove all that extra stuff to replace the complete oil line from the front engine housing. The fitting listed on post 1 of this thread can be used both ways, like mine or like GQMRacerX7.

 

hey, thanks for all the help!! i have a question about this pic, i am going to buy the blue fitting that is used here but what i will need that im having trouble tracking down is the braded line that was used to connect that fitting to the turbo's fitting!! i cannot source that out! any help??

 

This is what I've been wanting! Great stuff BDC.

 

Here's what you need:

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul....asp&x=23&y=10

I'm not sure if you need to use -3 or not.

I would re-use the metal line and only put the connector from the end to the turbo (like Chuck did). The metal line is more efficient at flowing anyways.

You will also need the fittings.

 

so that connects to the end of the stock metal line?? then, ill need a braided line going from there to the turbo??

will this work as a line?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...960249545&rd=1

Thx!

 

It would work, however the stock metal line is very close to the turbo, so you only need about 10 inches; if you use the fabed 18 inch line it will be too long. And the 18 inch line will not reach from the port on the engine to the turbo by itself. These lines are pretty easy to make yourself.

Here's what you would need to make it work:

Use the existing metal turbo oil line from the engine.
Buy the 18 inch line from ebay; cut it to the right length and add the new adapter. (however it's only $34 to get a 6 foot lenght of the SS braided line)
Buy the adapter that Chuck used; should be a metric or NPT to -4 AN fitting (male/male)
-4 AN straight female fitting for the end of the line
-4 AN 45 or 90 degree fitting for the other end of the line to the top of the turbo

 

EAR-184004ERL Earl's Performance Assembly Lube $6.50 $6.50
·The part is classified hazardous. Additional fees may apply. If you purchase this part, your order can only be shipped by ground.

EAR-300104ERL Earl's Performance Auto-Fit Hose Ends $5.88 $5.88

EAR-406004ERL Earl's Performance Perform-O-Flex Hose $34.39 $34.39

EAR-849092ERL Earl's Performance Swivel-Seal Hose Ends $29.69 $29.69


This might help you start off .

 

bumping this thread because its relevant...

with the fitting, is a crush washer needed? the fitting i have now fits but when threaded as far as it will go, there is a slight gap as if the fitting needs more threads. i was going to teflon tape it and call it a day but i am unsure if it will leak or not.

 

Yes you need an aluminum or copper crush washer. Not an o-ring and definitely not Teflon tape. Teflon tape does not seal straight cut threads. It is only for use in sealing tapered threads such as NPT "pipe" thread.

 

just get a banjo fitting the right size that converts to a -4 AN male on the side. Use a copper washer on each side just like stock, then a normal -4AN hose over to the turbo.

 

mine is the 1.5 to -4 adapter and i used thread SEALANT. not teflon tape...

 

Ok.... I would just used an o-ring. I always found that copper washers have to be torqued alot more than I felt comfortable with to not leak. Ive broken 2 -10 oil cooler fittings trying to keep the copper washer from leaking.

I just use orings. Did this a over a year ago. and have not had 1 drop of oil leak.

 

Copper washers only need like 20lbs of torque. If it's leaking after that then your surface is not prepped/flat

 

Here’s my fitting rant:

Definitely use only a crush washer. Basically all seals on an RX7 are metric straight thread with a crush washer. O-ring type seals (SAE, ORB, ect) require that there be a chamfer at the top of the threads for the o-ring to sit. If you put an O-ring on a thread that was cut to seal with a crush washer the o-ring will be stuffed into the threads and get cut. It may seal once or for a while or not at all, don't do it.

Also, crush washers are one-time-use. After they are flattened, they aren't meant to be flattened again.

AND PLEASE, don't use Teflon tape on straight threads. Teflon tape is a thread LUBRICANT, not a sealant. It works well with NPTs because it's slippery and allows the threads to be tightened more than if it was dry metal-on-metal. It does not contain some magical fluid-stopping power that will keep oil from flowing around straight threads. I work with high pressure/purity hydrogen for work and use SAE, NPT, compression, and AN (JIC) fittings all day. Teflon has it’s place and it basically starts and ends with NPTs. That said, using oil or a suitable thread lubricant (Krytox) will prevent galling and make fittings last longer, especially with stainless.