Well, I finally started pulling my car apart. Utilizing the lift in my garage , I removed the turbo and found that it is toast. I will have picture up very soon.

The exhaust housing blades are destroyed. Each blade has a dime size chunk missing. The exhaust housing itself has many loose chunks floating around. If you peer into the exhaust housing, you can see grooves and sections removed from the housing area.

Looking into the rear rotor looks the same. Large groves in each rotor.

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Well, little from this turbo will be rebuildable. The seals are toast, exhaust housing destroyed. The intake clip is in good condition as well as the intake turbine blades.

I was never really able to make any power worth anything... This was also because I had an engine that had compression of 4.0, 3.8, 3.6 on the rear rotor.

I should have followed Matts advice (Mr. TT) and not drive it. Ah well. Its only money right?

I was able to put out 320 rwhp at 15 psi with this turbo (60-1 w/1.15 AR housing). Again, thats with 5.6, 5.6, 5.4 on the front rotor and 4.0, 3.8, 3.6 on the rear.

I was trying to decide if I should do a BP on this new engine as well as which turbo to mate to it.
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Question is: Go with the same turbo? Larger?

This is a street/track car.

Thanks for you advice.

Mike

 

DO NOT BRIDGEPORT IT!!

Get the engine rebuilt, get the turbo rebuilt or get the same tubo EXACTLY and away you go!

That turbo is spot on for a street car and don't let anyone tell you the exhaust A/R is too big!!!

 

why the hell not? just dont do a j-bridge if your going for a street car do the secondarys

 

Why do a bridge?

What are the benefits?

Crap drivability with some gains up top?

Get a big street port and your engine will last longer and make just as much power AND be drivable!

 

Duh Passion...hehe

 

what is crap drivablity? im sure it cant be as bad as having a carb'ed car on a cold morning. there is a guy with a repu that has a PP motor with a carb and he drives it to and from work.

people can do what they want to there motors, people that want more horsepower usally go for a bigger port. if i could afford it id get a pp with a huge turbo on it. but until then i will bp my motor and have a decent sized turbo on there.

plus i think the only way the motor wouldnt last as long as a big street port would be if you cut into the water seal, if you dont i dont understand why it wouldnt last as long

 

Here are a few pics of the garage & turbo:

The exhaust turbine:



The work bench. 12 Guage steel on 4" of plywood.



Pride and Joy! The lift:






The big screen! 65" of Diamond Mitsubishi TV



My wifes kichen.



Sorry for the bandwith. More pictures of the house soon...

Mike

 

Mike,

Sorry to hear about your turbo.

I do like the new garage/lift!

How high total is your ceiling in there?

Approx. how much did the lift cost you, and where did you purchase it from? Just curious.

Also, nice bike! Looks like a F2 maybe? Glad to see some other forum guys ride.

-Mike

 

Does the PP go?

The only way to make a PP go is for it to be LOUD! PPs don't idle much below 2000rpm and they drink fuel like an alcoholic!

BPs aren't to far behind! They don't idle too well and neither engine make usuable power below 5000rpm! They attract to much attention of the wrong kind and they are just pains in the backside in general!

The BP and PP engines were built for RACING. If Mazda thought they would be good for street cars, don't you think they would put them on the production models?

And a BP engine will rarely outlast a standard port engine. When you go and make the gap to the water jacket smaller, the metal will weaken around the jacket and start to leak into the combustion chamber.

I will line my car up against any STREET car that has a BP turbo combo and I will eat it alive in drivability, fuel consumption, noise and power delivery.

DO NOT BP YOUR ENGINE!!!

 

i am gong to have to disagreee on the bp theroy many many people up here run bp for daily drivers making at the minimum 500hp at the wheels and still get over 60k out of the motor which in my book is EXCELLENT considering the power you are making. who cares about noise? and who drives there rx for gas mileage and quietness? let alone putting around under 4k if you do you don't belong in a rex. and i highly doubt you would eat my car alive. i drive my car to and from the track 4 1/2 hrs each way, race and drive home so if that is not streetable or dependable enuff i don't know what else to tell you, if you are serious about drag racing bp is the only way to go. you are making what 334 hp? i will take 550 anyday and lose gas mileage and maybe 20k miles on the motor

 

bring the noise!

 

What kinda boost are you running Soul Assassin?
just curious.

 

It shows that Steve hangs with Matt doesn't it.

Personally i think if ya want a semi BP turbo then go for a semi BP turbo, one of the reasons to do it is just to prove to all the "experts" out there that it can be done, in a say of saying "up your's to buddy, i thought you were the expert"

I see no problem with BP or PP turbo's but then again i aint the type to spend big bucks with a 400+HP road car motor.

For a road car i want something that gets as many MPG as possible so is cheap to run, when it comes to my play/race car i want it all and then some...........

 

on race day i run 1.6bar for day to day driving 1.0 bar for sat street races 1.2 maybe 1.3bar

 

Mike-

I love the lift too.. My garage is quite bare right now. Soon, I will have my AirCompressor lines attached to the walls, my grinders, tools, etc all up on the walls.

My ceiling is 14.5 foot all around, with a 16 foot ceiling center section. The I-Beam sits down a little low, but doesn't effect the RX-7. The RX-7 goes all the way up until the lift doesnt take it any further. The arms which push the car up goes 6 feet. (Higher than I can practically work on the car).

Its a 9000lb rotary 2 post A-Symetrical lift. They run about 3500 after taxes.

Yeah, thats my bike. 1992 CBR F2. A little messed up right now. My buddy Art (RTS3G) decided to be cool and throw it into a ditch. I still laugh thinking about it... Anyhow, it drives down the road sideways now. (Thanks Art!)

I plan on turning it in to the insurance some time soon.

Mike

 

Mike, just port your motor some more, like a bigger street port. Keep the turbo you have, it is the right size for what you want. Do you know why the turbine and exhaust housing are damaged? Is somethign falling apart in your intake path, or did something pop out your motor and cause the damage. Last thing you want to do is rebuild the turbo and then have it chewed up in a month.

I will have to come back out next year and see this beautiful house that I stayed up all night pulling cable in . This time I will have my car trailered out there, so don't fill up the garage to much

6' isn't high enough for a lift. What about those of us that are taller than that

 

My sig is old. Last week my car made 440rwhp on an Australian dyno which reads less than any American or Japanese dynos. On a Dynojet dyno 440rwhp equates to just over 500rwhp and that was with the mixtures rich as and on 23psi.

What times has your car run? I ran an 11.1 @ 125 on Sunday and that is the first time I have raced and the car run 100%. HITman is going to lean the mixtures back a bit (it was tuned at about 11.1 a/f ratio to be safe) and I will take the car back to the track to run a 10.

I drive the car on 1.0 bar on the street, when I race and when I cruise. The car did a 12.5 @ 86mph, on a back off on 15psi and pump fuel. What has your car done again?

Who cares about noise? The police, the neighbourss and me when Im driving! If I am going for a 4 hour drive I don't want to listen to a droney *** exhaust!

If you drive below 4000 you don't belong in an RX?? WHO THE **** DO YOU THINK YOU ARE? The only reason ****** like you have to drive above 4000rpm everywhere is because your car barely goes below that! I can nail my car at 2000rpm in 4th and it will pull the spine out of a chickens ****! Would you prefer your car to drink fuel like it was free and make 500hp, or be good on fuel AND make 500hp? I HAVE the 2nd option!

Theres the noise, do with it what you want.

As for Shane...well....what have you done lately?

At anytime did I say that PP turbo engines are crap? For the street they are. For outright HP they are not. If they were crap overall, would Racing Beat have made 1000hp out of a triple rotor triple turbo PP and set a land speed record? Would Rice Racing be making hupe power out of a 13B PP turbo? Would the Mazfix Corolla have made 500rwhp (dyno dynamics) with a PP 13B turbo if it was crap? NO!

 

I am sure I have mentioned this in other threads? but here is a brief scientific description of either styles in broad terms

street port: BSFC cruize,low load/low to mid rpm = low, VE% = high at 3500 to 6500rpm, power = narrow, torque = narrow in general best compromise of street set up for noise and economy at the expence of lower power and narrow torque range.

BP/PP BSFC cruise,low load/low to mid rpm = high, VE% = high at 5000 to 9000rpm, power = broad, torque = insane! in general BEST for performance and WILL have much lower fuel consumption in high load mid to high rpm (racing) situations cause BSFC is much better (NOTE) this is reflected in the torque curve BSFC tends to be the inverse of the torque curve so where torque is at it's highest this is where the BSFC is at it's lowest, this factor also has a big role on the ultimate power you make from ANY given amount of fuel. THE BIG POINT is that these engines are useless when used with a restrictive exhaust (read legal) and they will never match the low load fuel efficiency of the street port engine.

This is why my road car is a street port, cause I do not like paying the goverment extra tax in increased fuel bill.

My 500bhp 13B road car does 100km on 9 litres of fuel on the highway and around town uses no more than 14 litres per 100 km. It is horses for courses!!!!

My PP uses over 20 litres per 100km in town, no matter how EASY you drive, oh and it does idle at 1000rpm! It's cause the BSFC is so high in light load situations is why the economy is bad in that situation.

And on the topic of reliablity (engine wear related)? Basically if you are making the same power at the same rpm (this can be done with either port) there is no difference in the life of the engine, simple as that.

Hope this clears a few things up.

 

As if I didn't already know that....

My head hurts now.... p

 

I'll explain my post for those that cant understand it.

Now, Notice how this is in a line by itself, in the english language, we have PARAGRAPHS, this line is a PARAGRAPH, the contents in this PARAGRAPH only applies to this particular PARAGRAPH, so anything which follows in the next PARAGRAPH/S is its own concern, having nothing to do with what i have said in this previous PARAGRAPH/

Now did anywhere in those above 3 PARAGRAPHS did it i mention anything about AJC13B saying that PP turbo engines are crap?
No i didn't so dont go flying off ya handle at me claiming i have said something which I MOST CERTAINLY DIDN'T SAY!

(NOTICE THIS IS A NEW PARAGRAPH AND HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH ANYTHING I HAVE MENTIONED ABOVE, just wanted to make it clear)

As Peter said, a BP or PP turbo is a race motor, I have a RX7 for car club events/racing and a shitty little run about as a means of transport My RX7 is not my daily driver.

 

Mike, Not Matt's advice, mine..Matt is my little brother... Sorry to hear about the car..... As far as porting you need to decide how much power you want and what you are going to use the car for. I would say if you are going to drive on the street and and have some civility, big street port. 430 rwhp on pump gas, 485-500 rwhp on c 16.... When you start getting 500 rwhp in an RX-7 you are starting to playing with the same power to weight as a Hennessey 800tt... BTW: I was hanging out with Shannon last Sun..I was messing with some bikes on the interstate and he saw me, chased me down in a friends saturn..lol Anyhow, I have a boost problem and he wanted to help me try and figure it out..He decieded to pull the rack as I watched (fast) but we couldn't...still dosen't boost correctly..... but there are always more weekends...I think I am going with a T-78 and electromotive but maybe haltech...I want a faster car but I want a smooth idle. Shannon wants me to help him port and build his motor. If you wait a little while he can probably build you a motor as he will have the ports.....I would suggest you buy a block from Malloy Mazda @ 1-800-533-3400 pull it apart, upgrade the oil system and water seals and port it....Chris

 

Shane....you need to have a good long hard look at my post, then look at your spray post to me and think about it.

Notice how my sentance asking what have you done lately is on its own? This in the english is a paragraph. Its all on its own.

Now, anywhere in my thoughts on PP turbo race engines did I direct the comments at you? I can't seem to find any reference to you in my post apart from the aforementioned single line paragraph. Can you?

I think YOU need to calm the **** down and read things as they are, not going off on your own little tangent and reading things into it that aren't there.

 

in Australia(Sydney),its a hassle driving a Bp/PP motor to its full potential(meaning freeflowing exhaust).Cops down here try to get you for every single detail.
I had a BP and was getting booked every weekend for noise,cause they could hear me coming from miles away.Got rid of the BP and went for a nice street port,now i only get booked maybe once in 3monthes,and only cause they like to pull over done up cars.Thats why most people now in OZ go for street ports and recomend it,the days of BP/PP motors are gone and no1 wants them,So if you dont want hassles,get a street port,but if you dont care/worry,or use it mainly for drags/racing try the BP.

Now if you wanna talk about REAL STREET cars,meaning having a legal exhaust system with a maximum of 96db noise,the street port turbo will outperform a BP cause having a exhaust system with 96db noise on the BP will be very restrictive compared to a Street port.