No tuners here. Gotta do it myself (With your help PLEEEZE)
#1
No tuners here. Gotta do it myself (With your help PLEEEZE)
Please help.
What would be a reasonable setting for my ignition timing (leading) considering my setup? I will be boosting 13 - 15psi, no higher.
Set up:
FDMotor
Medium Street Port (Pineapple templates)
1000/1600 injectors
Bosch inline fuel pump (40psi pressure)
GT4094R single
FMIC
EMS Stinger ECU
My ECU reads 15* at a little over 10PSI, and the car runs reasonably well, but I think it should pull harder..
I want to raise the boost to more than 15psi (pump gas)
What should my timing be about?
What would be a reasonable setting for my ignition timing (leading) considering my setup? I will be boosting 13 - 15psi, no higher.
Set up:
FDMotor
Medium Street Port (Pineapple templates)
1000/1600 injectors
Bosch inline fuel pump (40psi pressure)
GT4094R single
FMIC
EMS Stinger ECU
My ECU reads 15* at a little over 10PSI, and the car runs reasonably well, but I think it should pull harder..
I want to raise the boost to more than 15psi (pump gas)
What should my timing be about?
#3
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
on normal pump fuel don't expect big increases in power from timing unless the map is way off in the first place
it could be a boost leak, it could be misfire, or it could all be in your head. how "hard" a car pulls is pretty subjective. Even dyno testing is tricky because of variations in dynos and ambient conditions.
the car runs reasonably well, but I think it should pull harder..
#5
4th string e-armchair QB
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I think ~17* would be reasonable on your setup for 10 psi, taper it to 15 by 15psi to be safe, and maintain a decent split (10+). That's about where I am without my AI right now on a 35R compressor. S4 though.
Are you getting pretty reasonable AIT's?
Are you getting pretty reasonable AIT's?
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#9
4th string e-armchair QB
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Well, that changes a lot of things. Zero timing acts in a similar way as increasing your leading timing. It makes things very different, you would be best off seeking some professional help for that. Please disregard my advice on the 17* leading, it does not apply to zero split.
#11
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
iTrader: (3)
Now - Doesn't support split as in can't change the value, or it just fires each bank of plugs at the same time, all the time because it only has two channels?
If it were me, I'd be getting an ecu that can control things a little finer then that before doing much more to the car.
If you're comfortable running zero split, you're going to have to really lower the overall advance, and power is going to likely be way down vs. having a proper split capable setup because of that.
If your quest to raise the boost above 15 is in search of more power, I'd suggest first getting a proper ECU and re-tuning the setup at and below 15psi. I can almost garuntee that the advantage of higher leading timing and split trailing timing will raise the power compared to your current boost level with ultra low timing/no split.
#12
And this quote from Racing Beat website lets me know that there are others running without split
Supercharging/Turbo
Supercharged engines deserve special comment. In general, if you are just adding a small amount of boost (low restriction exhaust system), leave the timing at the stock settings. However, if you are porting the engine, running high boost and a large intercooler, or operating the engine at continuous high RPM, consider retarding the timing a bit. In our peripheral port turbo engines, we use 10° BTC total advance, leading and trailing, for dyno development and 12° BTC total advance for racing, after the engine management fuel mixture is well established. The timing is set at 6000rpm and leading and trailing plugs are fired simultaneously. The truth is that the power increase at 12° BTC is small and the danger is greater than at 10° BTC. Each increment in timing increases the risk for smaller and smaller gains in power
Your thoughts ?
#13
watashi no shichi
iTrader: (4)
I think you're going to be just fine not using any split ign.
There is a 20B floating around here who put down over 800hp without using split ign.
I think as long as you pay attention to the knock sensor you will be just fine.
btw, on Sea Island... is race fuel available to you?
There is a 20B floating around here who put down over 800hp without using split ign.
I think as long as you pay attention to the knock sensor you will be just fine.
btw, on Sea Island... is race fuel available to you?
#14
4th string e-armchair QB
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Exactly like on the racing beat website, you can run no split, but you have to retard lead (or in this case total) ignition to compensate. Instead of running 16-17* lead timing, you have to drop it down to 10-12*, depending on your fuel, and what works for your engine. Either way, you are likely losing power and raising the risk, since every degree has that much more impact.
#15
Exactly like on the racing beat website, you can run no split, but you have to retard lead (or in this case total) ignition to compensate. Instead of running 16-17* lead timing, you have to drop it down to 10-12*, depending on your fuel, and what works for your engine. Either way, you are likely losing power and raising the risk, since every degree has that much more impact.
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