Single Turbo RX-7's Questions about all aspects of single turbo setups.

NA vs Turbo

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Old 01-05-13, 04:59 PM
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How come Rich closed my thread but not this one LOL.

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Old 01-05-13, 05:40 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by thewird
How come Rich closed my thread but not this one LOL.

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because NA is better.
Old 01-05-13, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
because NA is better.
It all makes sense now. Dat atmosphere power.

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Old 01-05-13, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by thewird
It all makes sense now. Dat atmosphere power.

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well you get to get rid of the little girly side ports and go peripheral, its really better in every way except emissions.
Old 01-05-13, 06:31 PM
  #30  
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Except that, the high idle, and loudness. Lol

For street driving it's not really practical, for racing yes.

If 20b's were as abundant/cheap as 13b's there'd be a lot more na's around.

No one wants to spend an assload of money to make 200+ whp on an na when they can do it on a turbo for a fraction of the price.

Rotary >Pistons
Old 01-05-13, 08:14 PM
  #31  
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A fire breathing 4 rotor PP shortblock can be put together for around 10k. And is capable of producing over 600 rwhp. Most people on this forum spend more then that to convert their FD to a reliable 400+ rwhp single turbo. 25-30k for a proper 20b setup, what are the people thinking!

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Old 01-06-13, 12:33 AM
  #32  
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You sure you have your numbers right? They do seem a bit exaggerated.

Maybe if you don't care if you're getting ripped off you'll pay those prices.

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Old 01-06-13, 12:37 AM
  #33  
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Which part, I think they are highly accurate LOL.

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Old 01-06-13, 12:44 AM
  #34  
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All of it seems high other than the price of the 4 rotor, that actually seems cheap. Lol.

I thought the eshaft for those was like 10 grand alone.

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Old 01-06-13, 01:00 AM
  #35  
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You can get the shaft and 2 modified intermediate plates for ~6.5k + shipping from the green brothers. The rest is all 13b parts. Find 2 good condition 13b-REW shortblocks and you have a your 4 rotor shortblock.

Ask any shop for a 20b conversion start to finish and they will quote 25k minimum easy. I'm doing a 20b conversion myself and its about 17-18k in parts ALONE for just the engine.


Take a completely stock FD. Now lets see what we need to do a proper single turbo conversion...

Good turbo kit 4k
Cheap ECU (powerfc) 1k
fuel kit (injectors, rails, regulator, lines) 1k
intercooler kit (this can very a lot) 500-1500
cheap clutch 600
ignition amp or coil change 400-500
spark plugs 70-140
block off plates 50
aluminum rad 300
fuel pump 200
boost controller 300-500
midpipe or high flow cat 100-300
catback 400-1000
blow-off valve (some would say optional) 200

Oh, look we're at $10,000 in parts alone. But lets not forget this (some are optional)...

tune + dyno time 500-600
misc gaskets that need to be replaced
motor mounts
oil pan brace
water injection
gauges, don't forget the gauges!
And LABOR LABOR LABOR if your not doing it yourself

But wait? Don't most people rebuild their engine when they go single too? Boom another ~3-4k

hmm, maybe some rims and rubber to actually put that power to the ground? Another 2-4k

I'm sure there's more but you should get the jist by now . Most upgrades are done slowly and the hit isn't noticed until you start thinking.

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Old 01-06-13, 01:05 AM
  #36  
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Well I've got an fc and my short term goal is 225-250whp and long term of 300+whp.

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Old 01-06-13, 11:54 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by wthdidusay82
Except that, the high idle, and loudness. Lol

For street driving it's not really practical, for racing yes.

If 20b's were as abundant/cheap as 13b's there'd be a lot more na's around.

No one wants to spend an assload of money to make 200+ whp on an na when they can do it on a turbo for a fraction of the price.

Rotary >Pistons
my peripheral port idles @900rpm, and would happily idle lower, except the CARB can't do it.

as far as noise, its a problem, but its actually the same DB as my friends 6 port FC, we both get flagged for sound when its cloudy at the track.

its not practical for street driving, yes, but that's just because i'm stuck behind a prius, other than that its better.
Old 01-06-13, 12:08 PM
  #38  
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What's it redline up to? My last car was a 6 port s4 na with a streetport.

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Old 01-06-13, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by wthdidusay82
What's it redline up to? My last car was a 6 port s4 na with a streetport.

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the guy who balanced my engine says 11k, but i could tow with it. it makes the same power as your 6 port by 4000rpm, and keeps going
Old 01-06-13, 12:28 PM
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My old car was maybe 140-150whp with no tune.

My car now is a 87 t2 that needs a rebuild, I'll be using the stock turbo.

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Old 01-06-13, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by wthdidusay82
My old car was maybe 140-150whp with no tune.

My car now is a 87 t2 that needs a rebuild, I'll be using the stock turbo.

Rotary >Pistons
i'm running around 170-180rwhp@5500rpm in a 12A, and there is another 50hp on the table with some tuning
Old 01-06-13, 05:15 PM
  #42  
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1st Gen? Must be fun to drive. I bet it hauls ***

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Old 01-06-13, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by wthdidusay82
1st Gen? Must be fun to drive. I bet it hauls ***

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yes, its a blast actually every car should have a power curve that starts good and then just goes UP with RPMs
Old 01-06-13, 06:08 PM
  #44  
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I'm hoping to get 225-250whp out of the stock s4 turbo with my 3" exhaust at 12psi.

Later I'll upgrade the turbo and hope to get 300+ whp on a bnr stage one.

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Old 01-06-13, 10:38 PM
  #45  
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CA

A triple, or four RE NA engine will do the trick.

Turbo either and the fun factor is 100 times more.
Old 01-06-13, 11:43 PM
  #46  
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N/A: person sits in your passenger seat,and when you punch it he says: "WTF is in your car is crap"!
Turbo: Sits in the Passenger seat and you punch it and he Says:"WTF!, Is in your car?I just Crapped! "
Old 01-18-13, 10:28 PM
  #47  
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I always enjoyed NA rotaries.
Old 01-21-13, 08:37 PM
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Ive always had a na but my buddies t2 made me want boost lol
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