Stugots7

I have been fabbing my own t4 divided turbo manifold. I have been using all the good info on here. It is definitely a task. I was using a miter saw with a chop for the cuts. My saw just died on me and I wanted to know if buying a chop saw was the best thing to get to make the cuts? I was wondering what kind of tool/tools are generally used for cutting the wastegate runner holes in the main runners?? thanks

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

I have a Hitachi Mitre saw that I used to make mine but they aren't build for that kind of work so you're better off getting a chop saw.

I'd like to know about cutting the holes for the wastegate runners as well since I'll be doing that this weekend.

Stugots7

just went out and got one..cut 3.5 inch piece of stainless pipe in like 5 seconds.

speaking of manifolds I also wanted to know how low of boost you can run in theory if you have a streetport, decent manifold with ~11 inch runners, a bw s300 with 61 wheel, and a 44mm wg with good plumbing. I have a 5 psi spring and a 1 bar spring. I need to upgrade some other things before i put down 400 whp in my fb so I wanted to run low boost.

with the wg holes in the manifold runners.. would a carbide bit with a die grinder be able to remove enough material efficiently? thanks

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

I used a uni bit and a carbide rotary file. Run the uni bit in all the way and then open the rest with the rotary file. I have also used a hole saw before

moremazda

iTrader: (4)

For the wastegate runners I like to weld the tube in place on the manifold and then use it as a guide for a hole saw... is space allows.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

Best possible tool is a rollin band saw along with a plasma cutter, and rotary files. Not cheap though... and if your only making one probably not worth it.

philiptompkins

iTrader: (4)

Me and a fellow fourm member who may prefer to remain anynomus built one for my car in an afternood with a $60 junkyard turbo, $40 in 14 ga mandrel bent exhaust pipe a sawzaw, and a recycled racing beat flange.


I'm not sure all of what its capabe yet, but due to poor tuning the EGT's have gotten hot enough to turn exhaust sleves into this:

and the manifold/turbo stayed together. it does have a reinforcing bar that connects the flange to the exhaust housing.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

EGT's went out of control because that is a TINY TURBO. Theres a reason why you see a lot of "THAT TURBO IS TOO SMALL FOR A ROTARY" on here from guys who know what their doing. Tiny turbines (T25, T3) are plain just too damn small to contain the heat from a boosted rotary. It make the EGT's skyrocket even when running pig *** rich which intern kills power (and engines).

Looks like a fun afternoon with too many beers project lol. I'd prefer to remain anonymous too lol. Please don't take offense to this, it looks like it was just messing around anyway right?



~Mike..............

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

iam going to be making my own mani for my to4b thats comming in the mail. i know what to do on the fab side of this since its close to what i do for work. but what type of tubing should i buy?

ChrisRX8PR

I would recommend 2" 304ss Schedule 10 cast pipe and elbows. The thing is indestructible, welds real nice and the 2" schedule 10 pipe is actually about 2 3/8" outside diameter .

Chris

p.s. you can get the at www.mcmaster.com

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

the only problem i see with ss is getting the flanges needed. any one know who makes 304ss 12a flanges, and turbo/ waste gate flanges ?

philiptompkins

iTrader: (4)

LMAOOOOO maybe you need something for size comparison:

2a+RoN

late 90's powerstroke turbo? Similar sized compressor wheel to a 60-1.

Do I win something?

philiptompkins

iTrader: (4)

99-03 you get a cookie!

ChrisRX8PR

Mild steel flanges weld beautifully to SS using 308 or 309 filler rod and they don't warp with the welding like stainless flanges do. I use mild steel flanges on all the manifolds I make with the above piping. It works really nice.

Chris

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

i know you can weld mild steal to it with those rods, i am a tig welder after all. iam just stuck in work mode. i weld ss all day long in the bio field plus all the other crap my work makes. i was thinking of the ozone generators i was making a few weeks ago, and half way done they deiced they didnt want to take the chance of welding mild steel to stainless. so i had to grind out my weld and insert a threaded part . but thats because ozone is so deadly one leak can kill alot of people real fast.

if the weld cracks on a mani no one will die so i guess ill just do that. the only problem i have is that i need to figure a way to tack ss to mild steel with a mig gun so i can bring it to my work to weld up on a week end. since iam broke and cant just buy my own tig welder.

ChrisRX8PR

I see what you are saying.

As for the tacking, I've used both regular ss wire and steel wire to tack stainless to mild steel with a mig. They both work fine....you will weld over tacks anyways. On a good note if you get good metal penetration the weld will not crack. I've made at least 20 three runner turbo manifolds for 13B's(Renesis) with this exact piping I recommended and with this method most of which are driven everyday and have had no feedback of any one of them cracking or breaking so go for it like you said, at least no one will die if one weld cracks

If you are still worried about SS, mcmaster.com also sells this exact same piping in cast iron

Good luck!

Chris

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

i dont do much mild steel to ss tig welding so this mite be a dumb question.

i was just going to tack weld it then bring it to work and purge it with argon. will i be able to fuse it like normal or do i have to use the 308 rod? cause normal when i weld mani in my trade we wont use wire. we set the inside purge pressure to about 10 psi or so(thats what it reads on the mag reader so who know what the psi really is.) when fully penetrating fuse welding this stops the weld from blowing a hole and falling in, if you set it two high the fuse weld will bulge up or blow out while welding. but if you set it just right the pipe will be smooth where the weld is on the inside ie no concave or convex weld. does that make sense to any one lol.

ChrisRX8PR

Wow. that sounds kind of complicated. You probably will not have any issues with the weld behaving strangely that would require such an intensive process. I would recommend however that you use filler rod because the manifold will be as strong as its weakest link and if you just fuse the parts together the metal thickness will get awfully thin in the joints. I don't use much filler rod, just enough to fill the weld to the point where it isn't concave inward. Usually once you lay a drop of filler you can stretch it out for about an inch or two of weld before having to touch the filler rod on the weld puddle again. I don't think that whole positive pressure welding process will be necessary at all.

Hope this helps...

Chris

p.s.I set the gas flow at between 15-20lbs(flow not pressure) and the amps at around 70 and it yields really nice predictable welds between the stainless pipes and the same gas but with 100amps between the thick mild steel flanges and the stainless pipes.

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

yeah the purging setup is so the welds on the inside wont discolor and the wont sad ect. its not that hard to do believe it or not.i never purged any thing before i started working at my current job. ill just use filler rod on all my weld and on the flanges ill just fuse from the inside after if i dont get full pen.

speaking of welding, i was at my buddys place today working on our rs turbo capri.
where making a custom upper intake mani for it. i just tacked it up and will be bringing it to work to fully weld it. ill take pic and post it after. we went for a throttle body that was barley 1.5 inside dim to 2.75. maine reason for making a new upper.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

WOW, looked like a tiny t24 internally gated saab turbo in your first pics lol.

~Mike.............