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Not sure if this belongs here, but my idle is bouncing around and the afr is all over the place. Could it be something in the adaptronic select series or something like the IACS/AWS?
The car has block off plates and rats nest removed for the single turbo setup. I can easily take more pictures if anyone has any suggestions.
You should unplug the IAC motor, and configure the throttle body to idle properly on its own always, then introduce the idle control motor to help for any changes past this( electrical load, etc). This will also help you trouble shoot your poor idle condition, it could be the tuning, engine health etc..
None of those parts blocked off affect the idle. You still have an idle air control motor intact also. As said before you need to unplug or disable the idle control motor in the ecu, and properly configure the base idle with just the throttle body( and make sure TPS is set too).
Thanks. I forgot to respond but this did help. I also found out that the plastic intake elbow was a leak with a blown out o-ring. Couple nuts weren't tight and one stud is stripped. Got it tightened up for the time being which helped smooth out the idle as well.
Another thing to add to the list.
One thing that leads to unstable idle is targeting too lean an AFR.
Turblown is right that the idle control must be disabled (as well as closed loop fuel control) while finding the settings to achieve a stable idle.
Making sure of your injector dead time setting will help too.
Good luck
Since you’re reviving an old thread, lol, what is everyone idling their cars at? I just started tuning idle on mine. I’m at 12.5 but will probably try leaning it out a bit more.
Since you’re reviving an old thread, lol, what is everyone idling their cars at? I just started tuning idle on mine. I’m at 12.5 but will probably try leaning it out a bit more.
I felt like I needed to bring up AFR as a consideration in achieving a stable idle...
Because there are so many variables, such as porting, injector location, injector type and size, etc, there's not a set AFR for Idle that will work across the board. If you have a completely stock engine you should be able to get a stable idle close to stoich. But bigger injectors that don't atomize as well, located farther from the port with porting that has more overlap will need to be much richer. The key is to get it stable without being richer than necessary. It's likely that your 12.5 is way richer than necessary unless your running a bridgeport and some wambo sized primary injectors.
I felt like I needed to bring up AFR as a concideration in achieving a stable idle...
Because there are so many variables, such as porting, injector location, injector type and size, etc, there's not a set AFR for Idle that will work across the board. If you have a completely stock engine you should be able to get a stable idle close to stoich. But bigger injectors that don't atomize as well, located farther from the port with porting that has more overlap will need to be much richer. The key is to get it stable without being richer than necessary. It's likely that your 12.5 is way richer than necessary unless your running a bridgeport and some wambo sized primary injectors.
I’m running ID1050 injectors which shouldn’t give me any issues, I’m also using a GM 102mm DBW throttle which gives me the ability to make small precise changes but without secondary butterfly’s I have a lot of air wanting in. And it is a full Bridgeport, so there’s only so low I can go.
I wasn’t specifically asking for my setup though as it’s quite unique and not applicable to most. I just thought that since you mentioned AFR, that it would be a good time/place to discuss what you or others have found to be the sweet spot when idling.
