Possible to get a good idle with bareblock?
#1
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Possible to get a good idle with bareblock?
I've been trying to get my car to idle properly for the past few weeks, and I cant seem to make any progress, the idle is *sometimes* fine, but starts getting a little erratic after a spirited drive. What could this be?
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I have no cats, no ACV, no EGR, no rats nest, no BAC even, and I have absolutely no idle problems.
Oh yah and I also have TB mod and no actuators/sleeves so the aux ports are open all the time.
I think you just need to work at your idle a little more. Have you been playing around with the idle stop screw at all on the back of the TB?
Oh yah and I also have TB mod and no actuators/sleeves so the aux ports are open all the time.
I think you just need to work at your idle a little more. Have you been playing around with the idle stop screw at all on the back of the TB?
Last edited by ddub; 10-11-04 at 04:38 PM.
#4
Vacuum leak?
Also, check your TPS. I've been having an erratic idle (sometimes it's dead on at 750, other times 900-1100). Turns out my TPS is dying on me (new one in the mail), and doesn't always indicate "idle" to the ECU.
I have no rat's nest either, but still the BAC and other bypass valves (I really like my A/C and power steering).
-=Russ=-
Also, check your TPS. I've been having an erratic idle (sometimes it's dead on at 750, other times 900-1100). Turns out my TPS is dying on me (new one in the mail), and doesn't always indicate "idle" to the ECU.
I have no rat's nest either, but still the BAC and other bypass valves (I really like my A/C and power steering).
-=Russ=-
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I've checked for vac leaks, messed with the throttle stop screw, but havent checked the TPS. I assumed it would be fine since it was fine before I took everything apart, but I'm probably wrong. My only problem is idle, I have no driveability issues at all..
#7
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Check the nipple on the Turbo comp. Mine has been giving me so much ******* hell. I can't get the thing to stay in for more than a day, and to make things worse I slopped JB Weld on the damn thing and after 24 hours of drying it pushed on it with my index finger and the JB Weld broke, WTF?. If I can fix this I am sure my idle would be great. I have my rats nest removed but have the BAC and set my idle with the fast idle screw and it was pretty solid at 1000(Anything below that and my exhaust starts to shutter because my mounts are bad). I take a look at my turbo and that ******* nipple is hanging out, big *** vac leak like that and I still had a pretty steady idle.
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#10
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Time to go stand-alone haha
Check to make sure no *soft* pliable parts have gotten soft from your hard drives and allowed for any vacuum leaks. Trust me, it happens.
If you are sure, then check the TPS.
Check to make sure no *soft* pliable parts have gotten soft from your hard drives and allowed for any vacuum leaks. Trust me, it happens.
If you are sure, then check the TPS.
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Originally Posted by Enthu
My car has the TB mod and will not hold an idle until it has warmed up. I have tohold the car at 1k rpm for about 5-8 minutes, and the idle is a bit shaky for a few more afterward.
smooths out nicely after driving for a bit. I probaby have vacuum leaks....
smooths out nicely after driving for a bit. I probaby have vacuum leaks....
#12
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I have done the TB mod with all vac circuits removed except BAC, FPR, waste gate & BOV.
Mine takes half a minute to warm up, then idle holds.
In a colder climate the Fast idle cam & it's coolant circuit might be needed.
The BAC handles the switching loads from the PS, AC, & alternator with no problem.
Mine takes half a minute to warm up, then idle holds.
In a colder climate the Fast idle cam & it's coolant circuit might be needed.
The BAC handles the switching loads from the PS, AC, & alternator with no problem.
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