heidihi

If i have a large street ported motor (granted I know nobody will be able to be exact but a rough guess is good) and i run a GT35r turbo with a .82 ar with the HKS cast manifold on my 13b-rew, will it still spool fairly quickly and be able to support near 400whp? i heard that the cast manifold will lag it up and also cause for less hp than a full tubular manifold?

I just have a HKS cast one already for my use and id like to use it for my build if it will do what i like.. im lookin for boost around 3000-3500rpm with my motor (full boost)

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

Didn't know they made a GT35r with a .82 hot on a T4 foot print.

You would have a quick spool.

your "X boost" at "y rpm" depends on what you plan to run to make "z hp".

the GT35r can easily make 400rwhp jsut at what boost lvl.

Find a boost lvl your comfortable with and work back wards from that.

The difference in the spool between manifolds depends on the qualit of them. An equal lengh will spool faster but a poorly designed tube could potentially spool slower.

heidihi

im thinkin 13-14psi.. not really going for 400whp just quick spool up.. id be plenty happy around the 370hp mark..

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

get the supporting fuel mods, stick with the twins........ if that isn't enough then go single. baby steps bro

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

if your hp is flexable then you can focus more on spool.

for best spool you'll need a small exhaust like you were looking at. I wouldn't go lower b/c you'd introduce too much back pressure.

Get a divided turbo

BB would be ideal

There are alot of external factors that also effect boost besides a turbo.

You can do a search for those (such as Dp wrapping/tuning/back pressure).

I had about the same intent but honestly it came down to a deal I couldn't resist.

It was a bit larger than i wanted (62-1 - divided 1.00/water cooled/BB) but honestly i love the turbo and wouldn't change a thing. I also run a 1 bar (14.7psi) spring with the HKS manifold (semi-stock ports).

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

Good advice-

For spool it's very hard to beat the stock.

The hp is there on the twins at that boost lvl with supporting mods.

You really need alot of quality components and behind the scense "non-go fast" items.

The reason I made the transitions was strictly from reliability/ease point of view. For Power/spool I was happy with the twins.

LOL alot of ppl would think otherwise but if you know what your doing I would argue a single is much more reliable (especially with boost - external wg).

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

Several factors here. All the advice is good thus far, get supporting mods first (injectors, FPR, Fuel pump, Some type of EMS, Intercooler,etc. etc.) then get the turbo and associated systems.

As for specifics...... GT35r will spool up quickly in pretty much any trim/level you decide on and theres many options. First, if your really wanting to use your manifold, lets see which particular manifold you have. HKS makes several manifolds, two different cast iron ones that I know of and some tubular manifolds. As for cast, one for the FC which is T4 non divided and has an ok design. The secound is for the FD which is a little better design being fuly divided. If you have the FD manifold, your going to have to purchse a matching divided manifold from A-Spec, as far as I know, they have the exclusive divided T4 turbine housings for the GT35r. So you'll need to either buy the turbo from them or get a housing from them. I'd stick to a .8X flavor for quick spool up and as suggested anything smaller might cause issues due to back pressures. If you have the FC version of the manifold, you should stick to a open valute or non-divided turbine housing (FC mani might have issues with your frame rail clearance). Those can be had through most Garrett dealers including ATP. Its a .8X A/R (.82??) but flows like a t3 so spool up would be quick, but it lacks the flow of a true T4. You could also get a t3 to T4 adaptor and just buy an off the shelf GT35r which come standard with a T3 footprint. Go with the 1.06 A/R as its a T3 sized and will still spool up quickly. You could always just sell the manifold and buy a complete kit too. I'd recommend A-Spec, they got great stuff and nice long runner divided tubular manifolds and great support. Unless you like making Down pipes and intake pipes and such, going with a kit is easier. mind you, theres still a ton of stuff you'd need to buy if you don't buy a kit, like a wastegate, downpipe (you'd have to make it), intercooling pipes, oil feed and drain lines, water feed and return lines (GT35R like all ball bearing turbo's are water cooled), etc. etc.

~Mike..............

heidihi

thanks guys.. only reason i was looking to ditch the twins was mine are non seq already which i like.. but i was just looking to clean up my engine bay some and also give me more room for growth later on.. thats why my HP numbers are where they are.. i just have no ambition yet to realy go hog wild with power.. just a fun street car setup! and ill be sound as a pound!

Jason

iTrader: (5)

You will be pressing that turbo going for 400 RWHP. We have done it on a large street port at 15-16psi. It does spool fast and great street turbo. It will work fine with the HKS cast manifold.

I posted the dyno graph a couple months back somewhere on the forum.

DriftDreamzSS

iTrader: (4)

Thats the turbo I use on my fd with streetport. It spools very very fast. Its probably not going to make 400 on pump gas tho. I have some boost control issues to sort out before I go back to the dyno but im going for 360whp at 14psi. I made something like 330 at 12psi last time at the dyno just doing afr tuning but the overboosting prevented a real power pull.

heidihi

thats fine 400hp is justa number i tossed out there.. 360-370 is more my taste really while cleaning up everything and sounding mean!

also where does ur turbo spool up and when you get full boost by?

DriftDreamzSS

iTrader: (4)

I dont know the exact numbers, someone else was asking me that same question awhile ago. I never paid attention to when it starts because its almost instant, probably like 2300. It makes 10psi before 3400, maybe 3300. I havent been able to run hard anything past wg spring pressure but im sure 14 or 15 wouldnt be much longer.

atihun

With a large streetport, GT35R 1.06, I made 417rwhp at 16psi. At 3800 I'm at 16 psi.

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

Aren't you at 200RWHP at 3800 RPM also? Now that's bad ***...

heidihi

well I think I know my setuup I'll use.

heidihi

well since i cant find the gt35r i want.. anyone have anything bad or good to say about running a 60-1 turbonetics turbo thats ball bearing and a .84 ar? would it be a good choice to run to get around 370whp etc at a decent pressure on a ported motor?

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

The 60-1 is a good choice for what your looking for and has simular response and power to a GT35R. You have a FD divided manifold right?

~Mike..........

heidihi

yes i do.. i have the hks cast manifold for the fd, and it is divided t4 flange.

i gues my next issue is what wastegate do i run? i have to use a 4 bolt one.. and sadly im seaching ebay for um and there all knockoffs.. is OBX do they make decent wastegates? i heard of them before but dont know much.. im trin to find a tial or turbonetics or hks but no luck.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

Stay away from the knock-off's. There are 4 bolt adaptors for other wastegates. I personally like Tial. A 44mm would be a appropriet size for your application. The standard HKS (40mm) will sufice as well and bolt right up.

~Mike........

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

hks 50mm is what u want.

holds with in .5 psi (2-5 kpa) in all gears (no boost controller - spring only) on my car @ 1bar.

heidihi

i have a greddy profec b boost controller, and im just havin an issue finding a good wastegate thats a 4 bolt design grrr....

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

Which one are looking for? Turblown sells a P trim Gt35R with all of the available standard T4 turbine housings. .84 sounds a little small for that size of a compressor. You gotta remember what you put in, must come out. If you are looking for better response run a bigger exhaust system( 3.5"+)

thetech

iTrader: (1)

Before reaching this conclusion I suggest you read this thread in its entirety. I just bought the same Wastegate described below and in the thread for $128 delivered, and have taken it apart and compared it to the Tial 60mm I have sitting here and reached basically the same conclusion as Carl did 3 years ago:

https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/hks-style-50mm-wastegate-438673/

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

Been there, read that. I've personally inspected at least 3 knock off's before. The machine work was HORRIBLE in one, the other was marginal and the 3rd looked good as it gets. I know personally two guys that had problems with these. One was on a EVO, it had sticking issues due to poor machining and what ever materials they used the valve guide galled up (resulting in blown pistons from over boost). The other an Rx-7 with sealing issues (boost was sluggish and non-consistant). For another $100~200 you could get a quality unit, why play rulette with your engine for a measly $100~200?? And I'm all about budgets, but I know quality when I see it and know were you should use it (I'm am a machinist amongst other job tittles). Now blow off valves on the other hand.... use the knock off's all day, they don't see the heat a WG does and it won't destroy your engine if it fails.

And btw...... you don't think there is only 1 company making knock-offs do you? And if theres more then one comapny (the more likely scenerio), I doubt they all have the same QC amongst each other.

~Mike................

thetech

iTrader: (1)

I'm not saying I would use one, or even vouching for the overall quality of "knock-offs" as a whole (of course there are multiple manufacturers of these things), I am simply saying do your own research and figure out whether it works for you or not. If you are using a good standalone you should be set up such that you are not grenading your engine if you overboost, as this can happen for many reasons (broken hose being the most common I would guess) outside of the quality of your wastegate.

Fundamentally there is nothing complex about a wastegate and I don't think that ruling out the knock-offs completely is a sensible course of action.