hondahater

iTrader: (2)

850's and 1600's.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Yeah sounds fine to me

RXHEAVEN_WA

i "PERSONALY" know of the 044 doing 480rwhp (on lower reading dyno's haha) on its own then with the superior BAP you will totally **** it in mate

very easy job done and its a sick set up ! let us know how you go

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Thanks fellas for the words of encouragement! I'll definitely let ya'll know how it goes!

BluRR

iTrader: (1)

I dont know for sure..but i think they are more concerned about getting 500 rwhp on straight 93 pump with no AI etc reliably. Yes it can be achieved..people have done it on their own cars..but tuners generally may not want to do that for their customers as they know it may blow because you walking a fine line.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I've got alky injection on there but I don't think kilo uses it. He just doesn't know if the 044 and Boost a Pump will pump enough fuel for 500hp.

BDC

Given the unreliability of pump fuels even from station to station, it's just too damn risky. There's a reason why several of us over time have shifted towards lower and lower boost figures (and ultimately lesser amounts of HP) for the tuning of street cars. So many variables involved with the largest one IMO being the grade of the fuel used. Most of those variables aren't even done properly or engineered correctly on most street cars anyways.

B

BDC

Notice also Zack -- the opening edge of the exhaust port on those RE Cosmo housings isn't flat and level; it points downwards at an angle. Even if you were to put T2 or FD sleeves in it, the lip on the bottom at the opening edge would create a turbulent point.

B

BluRR

iTrader: (1)

So how much do you aim for on 1) pump and then 2) pump and alky for a "regular" customer car with all the standard average supporting mods..like a street port, hi flow pump, 850/1600 injectors, FMIC, etc?

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

to be on the safe side here in aus.

I stay at around 15psi that usually nets a very reliable car.

But you guys only have 93 octane fuel so it would be lower again.


If you want big numbers on pump fuel. Get the irrigation water out. And start spraying. 30+psi.

BluRR

iTrader: (1)

I run 12-13psi on 90 octane and seems fine there

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

I would say 14 would be the max on 90 octane.

forcefed7

15-16psi or so is where I normally stop on 93 octane for customer cars depending on their setup. Here is a car we did a few months ago.

-SP
-61mm turbo
-93 Octane (no AI) boost creeps to about 17psi at high revs.
-500rwhp

With water injection I think this car would approach the 600rwhp range with 93 octane.

Xcentric

I have since blown it up, think I got a bad ethanol blend tank of fuel. I still think
you can do this if you could confirm good fuel- impossible to do.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Any opinions on how hot is "too hot" for exhaust temps under boost, preferably pre turbo? I'm mostly interested in cars running only pump fuel (93) and nothing else added.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

I think the fuels are about the same octane, just different rating systems. RON and MON vs AKI (US). 98 RON is equivalent to 93 AKI. A general rule is to multiply other countries fuel by 0.95 to get the US AKI equivalent.

98 RON Octane x 0.95 = 93.1 AKI Octane (US measure)
100 RON Octane x 0.95 = 95 AKI Octane (US measure)

AKI = Anti Knock Index
MON = Motor Octane Number
RON = Research Octane Number

So if ya'll run 98 RON it's about the same, but 100 RON would be better by a couple points.

Before water injection found me, I ran 15-16 psi on the street. Now with water I'm running 20-22 at this point, and have less knock.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

under 1700* F is what I've read as being safest.

It's probably relative though to the use of the car, and the abuse it sees. A car that's under boost constantly for long periods will probably need to watch the EGTs much closer then a street car that has short bursts here and there. or even a drag car. Sustained temperatures in my mind is more dangerous then short bursts of a higher temperature. But I'm no EGT expert so I could be off on this line of thinking.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

and it seems like a car with higher intake temps would be running more dangerously at a given EGT than a car with lower intake temps. Though I don't think it would be easy to precisely quantify the relationship between intake temps, exhaust temps, and the possibility of knock.

I wonder: I'm running 8.5:1 compression rotors. Does that mean I can withstand higher temps under at least some conditions? Or does it not make a meaningful difference?

Busted7

I would say you can run a little more boost with less chance of damage with 8:50 compression and if intake temps are cooler then the exhaust temp should be cooler if tuned correctly!
I was always taught a cooler rotary will run better and longer. (If tuned correctly)