DamonB

I have stock twins but my turbo oil supply line leaks at the compression joint in the middle. Replacing both ends of the line still left it leaking slightly so the new plan is to build a stainless line that goes from the banjo on the front cover to the stock hardline at the turbos.

The fitting circled in green is where my leak is. I want to build an ss line that goes from this joint to the front cover banjo; I will still connect to the stock hardline on the turbo side. I know guys use this hard line to plumb your turbo to, anyone know the thread size of the fitting? Better yet, is there already an ss line available I can use to go from the front cover to the stock turbos? Thanks.

RETed

We've never found one capatible that will fit.
We normally cut it off, weld on a steel AN male, and use a female AN fitting on the other side.


-Ted

teeter

i've got a stock line(banjo bolt to the connection you list) that I could send you for the cost of shipping.

or I could take it down to my local "place" and get em to silver solder on what ever AN fitting you'd like so you can easily attach whatever line you'd like to it.

course you'd still have the stock connection there.

better solution would be...

for me to take my stock oil lines that attach to the twins down there and get them to silversolder and AN fitting on to that. Then you'd get rid of the stock fitting altogether.

cost...umm...PM me.

john

DamonB

I'm no single turbo kit expert but I've looked at a few installations. The ones I have seen still use the stock hard line from the front cover, but I never looked really closely at the fitting. So is everyone cutting off the end of the stock line and welding on a new fitting?

jdhuegel1

I just run a -4AN line all the way from the corner of the block.. The block adapter is 14X1.5mm to -4AN. Screws right in the block and then you can do a 90 degree -4AN swivel fitting off that to a nice -4AN braided line to the turbo.

DamonB

jdhuegel1 by "from the block" you mean the top of the front cover where the stock banjo fitting was? So now I know I can completely dump the banjo on the block side, but I'm hoping for something standard that will mate to the end that comes off the turbos as well.

rex u.k

It comes from the top of the front side housing, you just replace the whole thing with a stainless overbraided teflon hose with the appropriate ends fitted on.
A hose assembly shop will be able to make this line for you.

jdhuegel1

DamonB, yes that's what I was talking about..

I think to make anything custom mate to the stock line on the turbos, there will be some cutting/welding.. It's been a while since I played with twins so I'd have to look to make sure I'm not feeding you crap. I'll take a look at a set tomorrow and see what I can come up with.

Justin

DamonB

All the ones I can find are 14x1.5mm to -6AN. I'd rather not add another adaptor to go from 6AN to 4AN, so where do you find yours?

jdhuegel1

I ordered it from summit. You'll have to call and ask for it though.. As it's not listed on the site. The part number is 9919BFG (I believe) I'll double check and get back with ya.

jdhuegel1

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/shop1...&dept=Aluminum

There ya go. It's 9919BFH.

DamonB

Summit is the place. Now I have to call them about 4AN weld on adaptors; don't see them.

So from the front cover to the turbos I have:

14x1.5mm to 4AN adaptor (for banjo at front cover)
4AN 90 degree swivel (metric adaptor to hose)
hose
4AN hose fitting
4AN weld on fitting (welded to turbo hard line; original cut off)

Thanks for the help.

jdhuegel1

You got it! Post pics when you're done. I'll look very good!

DamonB

All the parts are here. As long as jdhuegel1 didn't lie to me about the thread of the front cover banjo I will probably install this weekend

I ended up going with 6AN because everything was in stock and available right away. I don't see it causing any issues though since I'm still using the stock hardline on the turbo side, albeit with a 6AN bung welded on. All Earl's Swivel Seal parts from Summit.

SPOautos

I'd like to see a pic of it all installed when you finish it

STEPHEN

DamonB

Just FYI for everyone the stock Mazda coupling in the line has a 16mm x 1.5 thread. A 9/16-18 brass coupling could also fit if forced, but it would slightly goober the threads and may not be up to being re-used if ever loosened.

DamonB

Line is fitted and installed and so far leak free. My car is still stock and the line runs under the solenoid rack near the OMP lines just as the stock one did; it isn't fun going in there.

Everything worked out great though. The 90 degree off the block adaptor works fine but is taller than the stock banjo. I had to face the 90 towards the rear of the car and then bend the line under the coil rack/solenoid rack before running it over the top of the motor and bringing it out the side under the wastegate/precontrol solenoids and mating up with the stock hardline that I welded a bung onto. My 90 degree on the block sticks up and does not allow the extra tab on the oil filler to bolt up to its bracket; I had to cut the tab off.

If I did this over I would use a banjo hose end at the block rather than the adaptor and 90 degree combo. If I couldn't find a properly sized banjo hose end I would cut the stock one off and tap it for an AN fitting.

Sorry, no pics. You can't see the thing at all installed in the car (it's completely covered by the airpump/solenoid rack/alternator/oil filler) and uninstalled it looks like any other ss line you've ever seen I used 6AN since that was the size in stock for the block adaptor. If there's room for that there's easily room for 4AN.

jdhuegel1

DamonB,

Can you possibly get a pic of the fitment issue you describe? I didn't have any trouble (Swung mine to the front) but I'm curious to see yours. Hope my suggestion didn't give you any headaches.

teeter

for mine I bought a banjo bolt adapter that went straight to -6(which I then adapted down to -4 and -3). If you want to change...I can probably scrounge up the part number...mine does point straight back towards the tranny and then around....because the adapter is quite long.

john

DamonB

Doing that would not have the oil filler problem I did but I wanted the hose to run in the stock direction under the solenoid rack as I wanted it no where near the engine accessories. My car still has stock twins so the vac reservoir under the alternator is still in place. If that reservoir was gone it would be no trouble to go out the front and then loop back under the solenoid rack; the oil filler wouldn't need to be cut in that case. Also since I have the stock twins I'm still mating to the stock hardline at the turbo end. There's not much room between the turbo end hardline and the block so if you don't run your new line just as the stock one you're going to have issues mating at the turbo end. You still have to keep the line straight at the turbo end because if you use an elbow there to save room you'll hit the back of the airpump (but no self respecting single turbo guy has one of those ).

Thanks for the lines, teeter.

diyman25

Sorry to bring this tread from dead..

Yesterday I am install my new turbo. took me about all day to do it, when I start up. not thing leak at turbo side. every thing look fine. but when I check on left side. I notice I had a huge oil leak from front of engine. so I stop the car and check for leak. cant not find any thing leak from my oil cooler and oil cooler line. so I told my friend to star the car again. I notice there just oil coming on top of engine . so look like it when I install turbo. I also bend or destroy the metal oil supply line.

SO by research this tread

I need one 14x1.5 adp. and one 90 degree -4 and another X adp to install on single turbo oil line. mabe some line to complete the job?

I also need to remove
Remove alternator
Remove UIM
Remove coil tray
Remove oil filler tube
Remove mounting bolts for solenoid rack
Drain coolant
Remove water hard line on turbos
to complete the job?
I will post some pic later
thanks in advance