GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

The fuel looks tight but not very stock, expecially with the FPR mounted. Is the intake manifold covered with heat shield (looks weird)? Did you wear sandals when you dropped the engine on yer foot, I mean in the bay lol

fastrx7r1-rotary

look fantabulous!

what are you using for the heat shielding? if you could provide a link that would be great. thanks.

atihun

I've already built the line ... the pictures are a little out of order; look at the 3rd pic up from this post and you'll see that the line is already there. It fits great and I can actually screw it on. I just need to make sure that everything is leak proof!

I will probably go to a bosch 044 or something larger external later. But at 16 psi I think that the FPR and the Cosmo fuel pump will be adequate to feed the 750's and 1600's.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I can't find any specs on the Cosmo/Nippendenso pump. The Walbro is 210/LH and my Nismo Skyline pump is 276/LH. The Apexi looks the same as my Nismo but no spexs on that either.

Lookin good. I gotta play catch up now so we can do a dyno day or it's a road trip to Texas for me.

atihun

Yes the lower intake manifold is covered with a heat shield... it may look weird but you won't be saying that when you see where your exhaust side of the GT35R sits.

The heat barrier is made by ThermoTec; it has an adhesive backing. I ordered it from Summit Racing (THE-13590)http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp

I was wearing socks at least!

The Cosmo FP is rated at 255 lph.

Asleep

Looks great! Makes my setup look ugly, dirty, and oily!

BTW, the adhesive on the ThermoTec will last about a years worth of heat cycles. At least mine did around the same areas of the body, I didn't do the LIM.

Tony

zayrx7

Tony! you sould come by the shop too see this extended street port, that's going with a gt40r. I'll be putting it together tomorrow.

Asleep

Okay, Z, be by tomorrow afternoon.

On topic, using the flexible and vented stainless sheeting that Jegs/Summit carries as a heat barrier works really well between the LIM and turbo. Also, good wrapping on the DP with generous overlap (on SS) has been great for heat reduction in the 'bay area.'

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

This line here between the secondary rail and the FPR has almost no room for movement. If anything that is what I would re-arrange, but if it works out for you what can I say. Other than that it looks like it's coming along pretty well.

atihun

I'm hoping that the ceramic coating on the downpipe to the cat will help with the heat. I bought a stainless steel heat shield for the turbo exhaust housing.

As for the main cat (Metallit SS high flow), I will be wrapping that with exhaust wrap. The wrap I bought says only to overlap 1/4?... So are you saying that generous overlap on stainless steel is okay, won't heat stress the metal?

atihun

I've put the braided hose in already, and I can fit everything without problem. If something will move around then I have some bigger problems. With the bracket, the FPR, rail, and the fittings don't move at all.

Asleep

My ignorance is bliss. I am no metals expert so heed them. Last SS pipe that just came off had no ill effects after 2 years. Discoloring, is all. This DP is bigger diameter for a new setup. My overlap is 1/2 the width, or on average <1". If it halves the life, I am okay with having another one made in a few years.

Did you coat the inside of the pipe or the outside?

Attila, I am a pervert for garage setups. Do you have any pics of your garage shelves and containers? I noted some color coordination in there and nice shelf around the tool chest.

Tony

atihun

They're coated inside and out. The inside coating is not the black color but greyish.

I have this old one from a while back. I built those shelves myself as our atic is on the second floor, and I like to be organized!

(I actually built the shelving around the dimensions of the bins and the tool chest)... so I guess I'm a pervert too!

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

^ Osha approved work shoes. I still can't beleive that you still don't have any stains on the floor, uhg.

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

Make sure that you leave some room from the fuel hard lines (unless you replaced them all the way back to the fuel tank) to the splitter you have mounted on the iron for the engine to move some. The only way I could see it not needing any slack is if your using solid motor mounts. Other wise when you go WOT the engine shifts slightly to the pass side. Obviously the better your motore mounts are the less movement you will have. With no slack for that movement you can imagine the problems that could create.
I learned that lesson with zip-tying my engine loom to tightly to the firwall and over to the engine. I ended up breaking some of the connections on the injector resistors.

Anyhow food for thought.

Best of luck.

Asleep

Nice! My wife came into the study as I was reading the thread and her comments were:
(1) why can't you have a garage that neat (2) my what a big tool he is using there!

Next house will have a detached 2.5 car garage and ideas I've gathered from looking at pictures like yours.

Good idea coating the inside of the pipe. Did you ceramic coat the front cover of the engine? I had the "ceramakrome" done to mine, not that it can be seen.

You have never leaked oil in you engine bay, have you?!

atihun

Some Updates:

What a shame that the Tial WG has to be under the car; it's soo purdy!



Quite a tight fit... I hope those solid motor mounts don't allow any movement.



Stainless heat shield:



Undercar views:



Knightsports Metallit High Flow Stainless Cat:



Yea, I don't like a dirty bottom!

dubulup

still looking good! I wish I had wrapped my manifold...as I just ceramic coated it. Cuts down on a little noise as well; something to think about

BoostedRex

Wow!! That is a great looking setup! I can't wait to see what it does for you when it's all finished, broken in, and put on the dyno. Plus I'm sure the "smile factor" will be really high on such a nice car. Congrats!

Zach

ggoldfingerd

iTrader: (1)

You're setup is very clean, nice job man. I want to see some Hp #'s too.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Look's pretty tight. I think you'll be ready for the Kan tuning session in March. Is your heat shield rubbing the intake manifold and the sidewall? Will the air pump tubes to the cat clear that turbo heat shield? Do you have the V-Mount all worked out yet? Did your clutch come with the push/pull conversion kit and where did you get it? I'm deciding if i'm going to swtich mine and which brand.

atihun

Nothing's rubbing; there's about 1/4 inch space on each side.

Is Steve coming to town in March? I will be doing my own tuning but it sure wouldn't hurt to have Steve look it over...

I will re-route the airpump tubes a bit. The V-Mount is almost ready, I just received about 20 feet of aluminum tubing .

The clutch is a twin plate pull type, so no conversion was necessary. It's an Exedy.

atihun

You think I should wrap the downpipe as well? Won't that rub through the ceramic coating after awhile?

dubulup

you can, I think the black exhaust wrap is sharp looking, Gotham sells a black fiberglass turbine blanket too...little extras like that might give the adhesive (thermotec) a longer life (I don't have as much as you, and mine is still stuck after 12k miles, up to 18psi worth of heat...not sure what that other guys issue was).

Ceramic is a soft finish, but I think if you wrap tight enough and properly secure the straps, you shouldn't have any movement.

Asleep

"The other guy" says heat cycles and if you ever drive the car in the rain. Don't worry, it is not permanent and you'll get a chance to replace it. And we're talking a GT40r sitting low and tight, baking all that shiny goodness with up to 23psi. Your results may vary.

"The other guy"