lsusaints7

As the title states, here are the parts I have and the prices for those of you that are curious. I have a 93 touring with stock ports. I have a PFS intercooler and PFS cool charge intake. I am hoping that I can modify both to work with my new system. What order should I do everything in, and what parts am i missing?

Used A-spec GT35r kit 1.06 A/r w/ t3 housing $2050
Walboro Fuel pump $93
Tial 50mm BOV w/9lb spring $215
Innovate lc-1, xd-1 standalone wideband kit $360
Differential Brace $125
Cork sport resonated mid-pipe $225
Factory Service Manual $100
PFC + commander $790
Pulley kit and belt for water pump and Alternator $70
Greddy profec B spec II boost controller $290

Fuel kit for $600 includes
Aeromotive 1:1 FPR
Secondary rail
Lines, fittings, resistors
ACV Block off plates
Fuel pressure gauge
1680cc fuel injectors

All this for $4918. I think I got some good prices, and hopefully I can finish the whole project for under $5k.

Where do I begin? Do I upgrade my fuel, then turbo, and exhaust last? Do I do things one piece at a time and test to follow the three mod rule or do I rip the whole thing apart, put everything in and then tune it? To me the latter would be the easiest. What things should I install and test before moving on to the next step of converting? Is there anything essential that I am forgetting?

Thanks,

Dave

dubulup

If I were in your shoes (and I was 4 years ago when I left LSU)...

1 - I'd install the PFC, with a base map.
Drive the car around the block makes sure everything is fine.

2 - Install the WB kit.
Drive around the block and on the interstate and check A:F's to make sure everything is still okay.

3 - Install fuel pump.
Drive around, check A:F's, etc...if you know how to tune a PFC, have at it, bring car to redline and make sure fuel pump doesn't lose pressure in high rpms.

4 - Install Profec B
Drive around, tune a little (up to 12psi)...make sure it works as it should. (you will have to change the settings on this for external WG later, but just a sanity check)

5 - Tear down motor to the block. Install the turbo, exhaust, diff brace, FPR, rail, injectors, BOPs, pullies, BOV, etc.

6 - load a single base map to the PFC, and go tune. Have fun.

I've modied the IC to work with a single (BOV on the cool side)...it is the bottle neck past 16psi with a single; maybe even before I haven't done any pressure drop tests.

Heisenberg

iTrader: (3)

I am a work in progress in the similar situation. I pulled the motor and am doing it all out of the car at once. If i had to do it all over again i would do it the same way. Having the motor out of the car makes life alot easyer.

lsusaints7

That is a great suggestion. I forgot to mention one aspect when I was describing my setup, my stock twins are toast, so when I go to test the components you mentioned, I won't be able to get into any kind of boost. My car runs good at low RPM, as long as I don't try to step on it to get boost, hence my entire reason for going single. I can still drive around in it, just not aggressively. Does that change your suggestion for the order of installation? I think the only thing it would really affect testing would be the greddy boost controller, since I would only be loading base maps into the PFC. Glad to hear from an Alumni of the "real" 2003 national champs.

BTW, is that heat treatment coating on all the IC piping, compressor, and intake manifolds? Very nice. Great Idea for BOV placement. I was already concerned about that. I see you had to cut the hotside of your IC to get the piping routed properly, good work. I had even considered cutting that "S" curve out of the cold side of the IC to make a strighter path to the intake, but now that I see how perfect it is for a BOV, I will reconsider. By copying what you did, I don't have to worry about changing the piping to the Throttle body from the IC at all. That will save a lot of time and money in fabrication.

I didn't realize that the PFS intercoolers were a bottleneck above 16psi. That is good to know if I ever decide to port my motor. Thanks Again!

Dave

charlies7

iTrader: (4)

all i have to say is take your time....im in the middle of mine..Take the time to relocate everything under the uim....even the coils etc. Make everything look clean so u dont have to do it again in the future....im in the middle of all my bs..here is a pic..see the coils in the upper right of the picture.

dubulup

Even with toasted twins, I'd do the same...just no boost tuning. Profec is a pretty simple install, so that can wait until you have the single in.

I do have a ported motor, and run up to 18psi...the IC can only flow so much air, I believe it is the most restrictive part of my air path. Intake and exhaust.

The coating is powder coat, except on the exhaust components thats ceramic. I did think about running the greddy elbow and cutting the cold side too...less bends = better flow, but I wanted to run WI, and aluminum piping would soak up some of the "coolness" I'm trying to get into the chambers (stock elbow won't transfer heat)...here's a pic of my WI line...just under the BOV

signofinfinity

hmmmm, are you V Mount? if not, do you have any duct to reroute cold air onto the ic? am askin since I am upgrading my IC, and my front bumper doesnt permit alot of space. i Like your idea for the BOV too. Any issues with heat soaking on the ic?

Very nice set up BTW!!! I had my Housinds etc all powder coated satin black too!

Glad to know it will look awsome!!



George

dubulup

no not V-mount, SMIC...hard to see the black FG duct, but check out the first couple pics...there is a red cap with a IC sprayer line going thru it (that and WI are my defense against heat soak).

a SMIC does heat soak if you are not moving...traffic, mostly. I remember when I was on a mountain run with other 7's. My core was just as chilly as a friend's V-mount, but as soon as we hit traffic, you know who was hurting.

signofinfinity

so you reckon that a big smic is the better alternative then fmic? what do u use for spraying? ethanol water mix? when the fans turn on dont they blow tons of hot air onto the ic? since they are directed to the IC? is the ducting stock or custom?

Would love to see more pictures of your setup....

Thanks

George

ps, i think this is thread related, it helps you get the things you mentioned installed in a logical and effective way!

G

dubulup

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/electron-manipulation-336924/ <--build up thread

I wouldn't say, its a better alternative to a FMIC...the both have advantages. Yes, when the car isn't moving, the fans blow hot air right on the IC (my intake is heat shielded and ducted for fresh air from the pass.side oil cooler duct).

My reasons for the IC I run...when I was seq. twins, I didn't want to more the battery, and wanted a stock appearance from looking at the car. When I went single, I needed to move the battery for my electric air pump for Atlanta emissions, and just sunk money into the IC and duct (PFS) and couldn't sell it for half of what I paid...so I decided to make it work.

If this guy (22 seasons of SCCA national experience) is happy with a SMIC...and 2 To4s, I'll be happy too This looks to be the largest SMIC you can fit.

lsusaints7

Great info guys, yeah I feel this is very relevant to the thread. That is a nice setup. I like the powder coating, it makes the plastic duct from the IC to TB look much better than the way it originally looks. I also have heard of the same intercooler being run in 20b's as well. If its good enough for twin t04 and 20b, then it is fine for me.

I have a problem, I was looking at the compressor housing that I got on my used turbo kit and the guy never mentioned the dents and scrapes in the housing when he was selling it, and he omitted them from the pictures. The worst part is that there is a crack about 1/4" long in my housing and i can blow air through it. It is hard to see the crack, but it is there. I will be posting "red fd3g" on the bad guy list tonight. Should I just get someone to weld a bead over the crack or do I need a new compressor housing?

I was trying to load my pictures, but they are too large. I will upload some tomorrow, thanks for the great feedback already.

Dave

signofinfinity

[QUOTE=dubulup]

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=336924 <--build up thread

I wouldn't say, its a better alternative to a FMIC...the both have advantages. Yes, when the car isn't moving, the fans blow hot air right on the IC (my intake is heat shielded and ducted for fresh air from the pass.side oil cooler duct).

My reasons for the IC I run...when I was seq. twins, I didn't want to more the battery, and wanted a stock appearance from looking at the car. When I went single, I needed to move the battery for my electric air pump for Atlanta emissions, and just sunk money into the IC and duct (PFS) and couldn't sell it for half of what I paid...so I decided to make it work.

If this guy (22 seasons of SCCA national experience) is happy with a SMIC...and 2 To4s, I'll be happy too This looks to be the largest SMIC you can fit.

Ok, so effectivly you are getting the front cold air from the gap between the radiator and the chassis crossmember( where the bonnet lock lies) right? Is that enough air?

Thanks

George

lsusaints7

Charlies7,

How hard was it to relocate the coils? What did you have to do? And how did you secure them?

It definately looks like something that would be worth trying. That looks like it would save some trouble of having to take off your UIM, not to mention it probably provides better circulation around your intakes. Do you think it is going to affect your coils being so close to the the gap where the hood meets the fender? It just seems like there might be a potential for water to affect them. I'd like to hear more about it.

Thanks,

Dave

Nuvolari

iTrader: (4)

Nice look with the black coating dubulup. I polished just about everything, and it seems thats going to be my new pastime. I had the same SMIC you have its the PFS one. Its not bad for twins at 11-13 psi but its a little heat box. I think its so thick the air flow has to be above 30mph to have any coolong effect. But both you and the guy with the race size PFS SMIC have done some nice work getting air into your turbos. I installed a huge FMIC on my FD , I will see if its any better, but the car is for drag and some weekend rides only. I recently saw a sweet V mount and I was very jealous. It has to be the best set up, or at least the best of both worlds.

Nuvolari

iTrader: (4)

My fuel system ..and what I will be doing for a few weekends



KG parts did a nice job, I kept it clean looking with the silver finished fittings

dubulup

94 and 95's had black elbows...don't try to powder coat yours, it won't work.

I'd try to talk to a turbo builder...Bryan @ BNR is a good guy and won't steer you wrong.

upload into a photobucket account, they will rezise them and you can just post a [img] file name [/img]
and the pic will show up in the thread...the account is free

charlies7

iTrader: (4)

pm'ed

charlies7

iTrader: (4)

just snap a pic open it in paint ..HIT control W and resize the image. Make it 50/50v or something in horizonal and vertical then it shuld be small enough to post.

lsusaints7

Here are the pictures of the damaged turbo. Do you think the crack that is circled in the last two pictures can be welded closed or is a new housing in order? Thanks for the help on getting these pictures up charlies7.

Dave