I have read most of the pages on this thread,with some people bagging or de-grading the dyno-dynamics dyno. Being an Australian built dyno,this is the most common used dyno in Aus and has become the industry standard.. The figures quoted along with the boost pressures & overall setups quoted,the power seems about right. I dont understand why you would add 20% as maybe the dynojet dyno's read high. We have customer cars tuned on our dyno dynamics dyno withsimilar or less power running the times. 1 of my customers [RX2] recently made 335 rwhp on our dyno dynamics dyno on 12psi + pump fuel ran 10.9@127 missing a gear,the same car ran 11.0 @ 124mph with 300rwhp, so given the weight of a rx7 with 318 rwhp...the time/mph sounds about right. This is only my own personal opinion and im not here to flame anyone,but by our standards,444 rwhp is good power and will EASILY run into the tens in that weight of car. Us Aussies now know that when we hear power figures from the U.S to subtract about 20%... :P...lol
cheers

 

I was told that the engine has 160miles on it but all bearings were reused and all internal along with apex seals were slightly used. doesn't sound like it needs break-in to me. compression won't change much for at least 3000miles.

 

we didn't came up with the 20%. The owner of the dyno told us the number and we use it as a guideline. Like I said from the first post, based on the other 3 cars on the dyno, the 20% seems about right.

We also used Lupe's previous dyno # and his 1/4 mph to determine if it was right before using that #.

to me, dyno is a waste of time and money since it takes me twice as long to tune a car and doesn't affect the tuning a bit when compared to street tuning. The only advantage is that it is safer and easier to troubleshoot when problems occur.

 

I simply said that I have dyno'd on three different dynos, and never seen, or heard of a 20% spread, and that any dyno where you enter values that effect the final reading, but do not list those adjustments on the sheet, can be easily manipulated. I also said that happy customers, and tuners are what counts, and we have those. No bashing, just trying to get educated I do think 20% is silly, but that is the owners business. I'd think he expected his sort of response, but was proud, and confident, so he posted what the dyno operator told him. Anyway, there really is no debate, this is not even a corrrection, it is pure fiction, the point is that it should be stated from the beginning as such, and then there would be fewer haters(I am not one). Anyway, I have a reputation for doubting, so it's likely people will assume I am a hater. There is a big difference between legitimate questions, and arbitrary bad mouthing. Carl

 

Can you confirm all the reused "old" seals and springs were put back in their original positions / grooves / slots?


-Ted

 

of course not, but the car was pulling descent vacuum (15" from memory). besides, the only time I require longer break-in is when it has new bearings. if the tolerances between side and corner seals were set correctly and everything else was reuse, I only require 200 miles of break-in on our engines.

 

Bond will be retuning in the coming weeks at Mustang Muscle. A few of the cars in questions should tag along for a couple pulls on their Dynojet.
Mike will be running trailing and have the AF61R on his car. We'll see what it'll do on a ported s4.

 

You should always put a few hundred miles break in regardless of bearings. It's plain silly not to on a street driven car.

 

If it works for other people why dont you think it will work for you? Unless you think their lying and trying to screw you over, I dont care, do what you want. Whatever works for you.

 

huwhat?

 

Dude, I knew what I was getting myself into when making this thread. Steve and my friends were telling me not too because "certain" people would badger me. I say, bring them on!

I'll be running my car at the track next tuesday. Doubters will be put in their respective place

 

This whole argument is pointless. Just put the car on a dynojet and prove the numbers. Until then its a 445 RWHP car on a Dyno Dynamics dyno, which are good numbers anyway and in reality what the car is making on the street.

This is the reason why I dont quote dynojet numbers on my Mustang Dyno. I usually give them the number and tell them its around a 10% difference from a dynojet.

Jason

 

Think of it this way, what does it hurt to break-in the motor? Now what can it hurt not to? Where did I ever say someone is lying and screwing anyone over.

 

No, I'll put the car on the track and prove the numbers.

 

Wow, I got a negative rep from some mindless shitbag on this post.

It read:

"Pointless post by penniless loser."

Well, lets see if this ****** makes himself known.

 

Congratulations on the numbers LUPE. You may have just swayed me to be tuned by Steve the next time he is in my area.

And I thought my dyno numbers thread was controversial!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You take the cake with this one.

 

Take the Fu$$er to the track and if it's trapping 130mph you know you putting down 500rwhp or so. Dyno's are just tuning tools to precede street tuning unless your using a load bearing dyno.

There is a 03 cobra that dynoed at 504rwhp through a automatic it runs 10.01@136mph at 3810lbs. The numbers don't match do they? It was dynoed on a low reading Mustang dyno.

What matters is the trap/time not the freaking dyno.

 

what kind of clutch are you using

 

btw you wanna see some power go to www.visionboy.com. they have a wicked IS300 with 642hp

 

I agree.

Track / trap speeds will work too. Until then it's a 445RWHP Dyno Dynamics dyno-ed car. Be happy with the facts and a tuned car, Eric.

Tony

 

nice numbers...... Post the dyno graph. I'm curious what the power window is.

I dynoed at 2 different dyno jet places and there was a 1.85% difference. 431rwhp vs. 439rwhp. May be attributed to a slightly lower air temperature.

 

i still think you are a pointless ***! ....btw, the seals you use suck too

 

 

Are you referring to the car you rebuilt 2 motors for in 5 months, supposedly ported and tuned. The problem with your tuning is you only adjusted the PIM volts and didnt touch the timing, which blew his motor both times. I won't mention the port job since it wasn't even ported.

 

Eric, sent you a PM.

Jason