Hi everyone , I need some thoughts and advise to get my crank case pressure under control. I've searched this topic and found a couple threads relating to this issue , but I would like to know if there have been any new developments or innovations in this area. I am presently runnimg 11 psi boost and its manageable , but I plan to go over 20 psi to a max of 30psi soon and I expect my catch can to fill up quickly ! Is anyone using the oil drain hole for the rear turbo on the rear iron ? if so , how doe this work ? I am thinking of using this point in conjunction with the oil filler neck , since the vacuum effect induced by the turbo would be interrupted once oil gets up into the filler neck and the catch can.

 

A big freakin' catch can or dry sump. No joke. Ask me how I know

Crispy

 

exhaust scavenged pcv system!

 

booya! f*#$in' ay bro. A true oil burner

Crispy

 

I have -6 lines running to the rear oil drain and the oil filler neck coming into my Moroso catch can/ vent. I also have a line running from the bottom of the catch can plumbed into the front cover so it drains back into the pan so I never have to empty it. The gases get vented while the oil remains is the theory and it seems to very work well at the track

Unfortunately, ever since I got my RE-A vented hood, I have to clean my windshield every session or so because the venting of the catch can sprays right onto my windshield lol. On the other hand, I can clearly see my engine venting through the vent on the hood while driving even cruising on the highway (after oil is up to full temperature)

thewird

 

Diagrams and system operation are now required! I understand this is what they were using in Formula 1 in the mid 80s with boost around 4-5.5bar

 

I would seriously consider a dry sump setup if I could find somewhere to put the oil tank.

 

For a heavily used track car...dry sump (if you can afford it) is definitely the way to go. All this catch can, venting, modified oil filler neck, mumbo jumbo is just a patchwork of bandaids. The issue being oil slosh in the pan...get rid of the pan!
Regards,
Crispy

 

Who makes an oil pan baffle for the FD to reduce oil slosh?

 

I've always wanted to go drysump but its not very feasible in a street car. Plus the cost is just insane.

thewird

 

I use the venting system that Damian sorted out. Works very well.



Guy

 

The OEM pan is already baffled.

The problem street cars with oil pans, baffled or not, are not really designed to cope with lateral forces in sometimes in excess of 1.5g when on Hoosier slicks.

FWIW:
13B dry sump front cover (PN0000-01-9314) $2462.56.
13B dry sump gear kit (PN 0000-01-9313) $415.00
Then you add plumbing, special hard piping o-rings (if using the factory dry sump system) hoses, pump(s), pump hanger, oil tank, and engine base plate.

Regards,
Crispy

 

^ and it eliminates the omp so premixing isn't an option but a requirement

 

Vent both sides of the engine with as big and short of a line as you can get away with. Problem solved.
I had an FC and I vented the front cover below the turbo drain on that side and out the filler neck on the other. I never had another drop of oil in the catch can after that and I used to fill a quart sized catch can every 20 minute session.

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=205
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=210
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=211

There are some crazy ideas and over-engineered solutions in that thread (most of which don't work). It's as simple as finding a place where the compressed air can escape from with no oil in it's way to push out.

 

RX-Heven, your solution also eliminates the OMP.

thewird

 

I like to keep it simple. But i also don't do much cornering.

 

So seeing a small puddle of oil under my car from the middle iron vent being left open during some dyno time at 20+ psi is normal?

 

I have been thinking about an exhaust scavenged crank case vent system utilizing a check valve in the downpipe. Would this system require/benefit from the use of a catch can and if so would it make sense for the can to be vented or locate a vent elsewhere (i cant think of another location).

 

you would get the most benefit outta using a catch can in a esv system. you wouldn't want to vent the can because then you would loose all your vacuum the exhaust has created.

 

I tapped the Center iron were the oil gets filled. Put a -10 line almost half way up th iron. Then i put another -10 line on the side of the Oil filler neck, both running to a catch can.

 

This thought did cross my mind but I thought you need a vent that the vacuum can draw from. If not the can, where can you put the vent?

 

no vent, the way the system works is this, you have a bung in your dp with a angle tip tube cut in the bung(http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...oducts_id=1244 or moroso's http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstu...scavenging.htm)

Then plumb in a one way check so that no pressure can come from the exhaust system. from that check valve you would then run a hose to one port of your catch can. now take another piece of hose and connect that to the other port of your catch can and run that to you breather tube on the oil filler neck or were ever else you have your vent on the engine. all the blow by and gases with be burned in the exhaust and any oil will be collected into the catch can and can be drained.

I used the check valve from the factory acv pipe off the cat. ill snap some pics this week of my setup and show yall.

 

"Vent both sides of the engine with as big and short of a line as you can get away with. Problem solved."

i can't add anything to the above. simple stuff. don't make it complicated.

howard

 

^ It really is that simple

thewird

 

So can I use the PCV nipple on the filler neck and the factory vent nipple on my middle iron and run them both to a catch? Currently the PCV and middle iron nipple are just open.