After trying a bunch of weird setups I finally cracked 500whp and I'm pretty hell bent on going to 600 but on auxiliary rather than pump.




My setup is

13brew full bridge

S366 with 3" exhaust

50mm wastegate

Power FC

AEM coils

10.5 plugs

94 octane

1000/2200cc fuel

525lph walbro pump

I'm hoping to get 600whp but I'm wondering what I should focus on to reach 600whp. I have a set of 2200cc injectors to put in and I am planning to move up to -8an lines but I'm not sure about what turbo to move to. I have a brand new 9180 core but no compressor housing and hotside . Was hoping my s366 compressor housing could be modified to accept it but I have not even tried as yet.

 

Nice power curve. Strong top end there. Well done mate

 

Thanks man! I'm thinking to try race fuel and see how high I can push it

 

That's a lot of boost for just pump gas. Are you planning on leaving it there? The 3" exhaust and boost control strategy at lower RPMs is where I can see room for improvement.

Great power. Someone wasn't afraid to turn that **** up.

 

Did you upgrade your lines to -6AN nd want to further upgrade to -8AN Or you wanna go from the stock line to a -8AN

if you dont mind me asking, whats your injector duty cycle with the current setup? What kind of boost?
Thanks

 

Heyaa Ryan,

I wanted to see how far we could go on pump and I believe that I reached the limit. I am on a manual boost controller and the 3" downpipe will go as the rest of the exhaust is now a 3.5" setup.
Plan is to use use auxiliary injection to keep the IAT's down so it doesn't cause a failure.Personally, I did not expect this to last forever as it was purely experimental and was curious to see the limits of the setup that I built on a beer crate in about 1 hour two years ago. All for the research purpose I suppose lol as I do want to go 20b so I can but the spare adaptronics to use!
I will say, that I am on a pair of scalloped rotors but that's all

The power fc is pretty much useless in managing E85 or blends other than race fuel so it will have to be changed out to a haltech sooner or later.

 

I plan to leave the stock lines at 6AN since I have read multiple times that they can supply up to 700whp. Boost wise I actually do not remember. Will go for a highway pull later this weekend and let you know. I could probably estimate its 20lbs or so? If only we had e85 more accessible, I would switch over right away.

 

Stock lines are 5/16. Not 3/8 (-6AN)

 

Omg, you made 530RWHP on ONLY pump fuel with no AI or E85, etc @ 20PSI!? (I'm assuming 93oct?) That's amazing in itself with the motor holding together... 🙈

 

Very nice, is the motor clearanced for high rpm? Looks like it would keep making power to 9 at least. I bet that thing feels like it just keeps on pulling forever!

 

Hey, I am testing some scalloped rotors and have done to clearances them. I don't take it above 8k as I believe I need a larger exhaust to allow the turbo to breathe more.

I've been curious and decided to post it here as I want to know my next steps to achieving 600whp regardless of fuel type. I don't wish to go e85 as it is not accessible on pump stations here and if I must move to methanol injection, I would be interested in what nozzles everyone uses at 500whp.

Also is it possible to achieve 600whp on the s366 cast wheel? I plane to go billet and/or look into the s4xxx series but would like to know what others have possibly done or tried

 

Thank you for reminding me, this will be on my to-do list to change over to -8an then

 

Looks like it's breathing alright at 8400 on the dyno sheet Your turbo should get close to that number (on that dyno) at around 25psi. You'll want water or water/meth injection at that level for sure. Stock fuel lines will probably work just fine on pump gas. If you're going to build a new exhaust, 4" tubing tends to be cheaper than 3.5".

 

I'll install my meth coolingmist stage 2 kit next week with a 3.5" open dump out the hood for the dyno just to see if it can make 600

 

5 extra PSI, a 3.5inch open dump and the more aggressive tuning/timing that water/meth will allow you... I see no problem breaking 600whp

 

here's the S366 comp map, generated a number of years ago a bit more crudely than more recent BW maps as evidenced by the RPM plots.

there is a relationship between airflow and power that is empirical and works well. i have recently simplified it so it is just a one step multiplier. each pound per minute generates 7.536 rw rotary hp.

this particular compressor map shows a max flow of 77 pounds per minute at 41 psi boost pressure. 77 X 7.536 = 580 max from the 366.

the wheel generates 76 pounds at 28 boost pressure/ 2.9 Pressure Ratios 76 X 7.536 = 573.

at 25 boost/ 2.7 Pressure Ratios 75 pounds or 565.

at 20 boost 72 pounds or 543.

certainly there are many other material factors such as thermal efficiency re flow and the compressor map. then there are other factors such as port configuration and system design.

i have an Excel file of 78 dyno plots corrected to SAE. Since horsepower under the curve wins races i have 5 points on each dyno run...500 rpm increments from 5000 rpm (about where the motor is after you shift, to 7500 rpm. i cut it off at 7500 as many dyno runs don't post higher numbers and i wanted to capture as many as possible.

after i have the 5 numbers i add them together and post them in order of the total. your 5 power points totaled 2515 and clocked in at 45 of 78. a good showing for the 366 at that boost.

one of the interesting aspects of my collection is the apportionment of power...

the % of the total power at each RPM point.

adding all 78 dyno sheets at each RPM shows that

12.2% of the total power was generated at 5000
14.7 at 5500
16.8 at 6000
18.2% at 6500
19% at 7000
18.8 at 7500

your power spread certainly behaves like a bridgeport:

9.7% at 5000
14.1 at 5500
16.7 at 6000
18.8 at 6500
19.8 at 7000
20.7 at 7500

you are behind the curve until 6500, then ahead.
with the crappy OE gear ratios shifting at 8800:

2nd gear 5104
3rd gear 6072
4th gear 6336

to take advantage of the bridgeport power profile you will need to be shifting above 9000. balance and clearances become very important above 9000.

another thing i look at is where do you make 200 rwhp... i use it as another way to I D the nature of a power band. you make 200 at 4750. i am pretty sure this is simply the early give up from the bridgeports which is all regained later in the RPM band.

none of the aforementioned should be construed as a negative, rather just a characterization of what you have. i still love the 366 and the SX-E 366 is my favorite 600 hp bread and butter turbo as it can make 650 rotary rwhp, has a 52 Trim so it spools now and can be bought for lunch money.

600 rotary rwhp requires 4736 CC into the motor and if you run 85% duty cycle, have 20% lag and want to be able to run down to 10.0 AFR requires 7000 CC/Minute Gross.injector capacity. the Walbro "E85" pump, used with gasoline can do 5678 CC/Min Net at 30 PSI boost if hard wired and running on 13.5V minimum.

while water meth works well around the 500 level i prefer just meth as AI as you approach 600.

nice job so far, good luck.

 

Ahhhh, I was patiently waiting on your amazing review

I have the car setup volts wise with 14.5 at all times and an 120amp alternator. It really affects the ability to keep it consistent however once I do the meth setup it will drop in volts for sure.

To be honest, I am nervous of the car going above 8k due to some serious vibration caused by something in the driveline. It doesn't shake when free revved. But on full boost it concerns me a tad as I am not sure if it's the road or the diferential that is causing it.

The bridge is extremely agressive and like you said , should be taken above 9k but since it was my first time trying scalloped rotors , I expected to pull it apart sooner or later but never ended up doing so.

In respect to the 200whp zone, I asked specifically to dial the power back so that I could lower the strain the the trans. I do not wish to break it like how I did when I was streetport hence why the agressive Bridgeport to kill the tq further more.

It feels almost linear and I love it. Personally I did this to experiment and see how far it can go but I will try to run straight methanol for the injection.

Do you happen to know if it's possible to machine the s366 to accept the 9180 super core assembly? I have one in a box but no hotside or compressor

 

I'm doing a 3.5" open dump out the hood for this to try and make it

 

Just btw if you run water or water/meth preturbo you'll extend the compressor map a bit, not sure what your plan is there. There's some wiggle room in all these calculations due to the difficulty in measuring rwhp accurately. I reckon you'll get there on the same dyno.

 

Come to think of it, WHY stop at 25psi!? You easily have the setup and pump to max out that turbo (which should be pretty close to 25psi actually with how much VE you've given your motor) Particularly with a healthy dose of water/meth (or pure meth) just keep turning it up until either the S366 or injectors max out. I think you'll be over 600whp in that senerio for sure👍

 

I kinda don't want to imagine what happens if I max the injectors out... Going to investigate what nozzle to use for the setup for the auxiliary injection and if I should do it on the elbow prior to the tb or in the intercooler piping

 

if you do water meth i suggest an M10 which is 630 CC/Min at 100 psi.

if you do 100% meth (my preference) an M15 works well 945 CC

meth needs a bit of lead to "flash" (atomise) so i recommend locating the nozzle upstream at the leading end of your Greddy elbow.. it is this atomisation that lowers your IAT around 30 to 50 F. . locate the nozzle as in the picture so it works against the turn to the TB. you could also locate the nozzle in the silicone coupler just before the elbow. this distance from the TB allows the meth to lower your intake air temps. water or water meth can be located closer to the TB as it doesn't atomise until it is in the combustion chamber.





while i am aware of the pre turbo AI concept i don't recommend it for your setup as you have a softish cast aluminum wheel and water (which is a very heavy substance, over 8.3 pounds per gallon) hitting a cast aluminum wheel spinning at 100,000 rpm and at 300 F can temporarily warp the blades. i have never done preturbo as i have always run 100% meth and would not want it near my IC.

 

Howard, where can I order the M10 nozzle from? I have a coolingmist kit I want to use it on for my single'd R1. Thx

 

Got it, My coolingmist setup is now wired up and all that is left is ordering the fluid lines and the nozzle. 3.5" down pipe has been made as well! will have to remake it as a full downpipe once after I have made it over 600whp. Another option i'm weighing is to change the primaries to 1050 or 2200cc but I really do not wish to battle idling issues as I do regularly drive this thing around. Also looking to change my plugs to the Autolite ones to see if the are really that good as to what I seen on paper.