mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

One more thing... even though you added more coolant..there could still be air bubbles stuck in the system.. So I'd advise you to Either use one of those Huge funnels to get the Rest of the bubbles out of the coolant system...or use a 2 liter bottle. Either way..it would be a shame to overheat that nice rebuilt motor ya know!? Good luck!!

-ap

zaridar

iTrader: (3)

Nice job man glad you got it idling now. interested to see how it runs when you take it down the street... its going to be hard not to get into boost tho!! be careful its too much fun when it starts boosting.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

When I bought the car it had hot start problems and I knew the engine was fragile so I have actually never boosted the car just yet. Seeing with how much money I've dumped into the car, I'm not going to risk anything until I know for 110% that it'll be ok to finally boost the car.

zaridar

iTrader: (3)

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

So was able to work on the car again today and we are progressing!

I was able to fix my coolant leak on the coolant filler neck by creating a gasket. No more leak.

I ended up starting the car and it moved for the first time in over a year! Put the car in reverse and backed the car down into the street.

Put the car into first and....stall

Started the car again, held the gas down more annnnndddd stall...

Took the car 4-5 tries to get it going again. It would act as if it was about to start and then just die. On the 6th try it started (hopefully this isn't a "hot start" problem)

Finally drove the car lightly down the street. Shifted into 2nd and third, turned around and headed back. Drove almost a mile!

Definitely need to get used to the clutch.

After shutting down, there was smoke on the turbo oil feed and there is a small leak so I'm going to have to seal that up.

Other than that, I'm pretty happy the car drives although very rough as I'm still trying to get a base tune.

Once I get that settled and I don't stall the car, I'm setting up an appointment to get my water injection and my gauges installed.

Water temp on the PFC last I checked after coming back was 85 degrees so it seems as though the car is running at ideal temps right now.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

You probably have a tip-in fuel problem (tuning issue). That can make the car more prone to stalling.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Worked on fixing the "oil leak". Added teflon tape to it and all but the smoking still existed. Ended up concluding that it is coming from under the turbo blanket? Is this typically normal for having a new turbo blanket on? This is the first time using one and if I lift up the blanket a little, more smoke comes out.

Anyway, here she is leaving her "home" after over a year of sitting and being worked on!

Don't mind all the dust collected after just sitting around

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zX7QF7NdOWM

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Have an appointment setup to get my water injection kit and gauges installed tomorrow so I'll finally be able to read more into the car.

Any special instructions of what needs to be done/where to install the water injection kit? Should be pretty self explanatory to them but if there is a special location that I should tell them?

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

Yes!....there is an ideal location...is it strictly Water? or water/meth? if so..I'd look into Running some window washer fluid as it's a 50/50 mix...I run it and it's cheap. But look at howard Coleman's thread on water injection or do a quick search on it. Theres something about it needing to be far enough away to atomize or something like that.. OR you could just look at Howard Coleman's single turbo texas mile thread and eye ball his set up.. I'm sure that would work just fine..

thewird

iTrader: (8)

I prefer having it being injected just after the intercooler to give it maximum time to atomize. I suggest pure water as it doesn't affect tunes, doesn't require having "meth safe" everything, and is the best knock suppressor after all.

thewird

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

meth is location critical. water is not. water does it's job in the combustion chamber. locate your nozzle where convenient. i like the silicone coupler in front of the elbow.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

I went to Howard's thread and he has two nozzles in his coupler connecting his IC and Elbow. One at the 3 position and one at 6. Seems like a pretty simple install and if I want to remove it, I just get a new coupler.

I will be running straight distilled water only, no 50/50 water/meth injection at the time. It will mainly just be used for "engine protection" purposes.

EDIT: Beat me to it Howard

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Aren't you getting a little ahead of yourself? The car is smoking under the hood...

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Oh sorry for not updating you on that. Took the turbo blanket off and no more smoking. Put it back on and it started to smoke so the culprit is just the brand new turbo blanket. Let the car run for 10-15 minutes and there is now no smoke with the blanket on.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

From what came with the kit, I'm guessing it's this one?

http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmai...0PSIStandardTM

Here are some pictures of the kit I took







From what I can tell it's only a single nozzle kit unless I'm looking at the wrong things.

If it's dual nozzle, I'm going to have it at a 3 and 6 o'clock position as stated above but if it is only one nozzle, where should I mount it?

Double_J

iTrader: (28)

Like above if you are running just water, you can run it where you feel is most convenient. It will not effect the tune. That can still be the coupler, or elbow, or.......

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

So it's been a while. Just wanted to give everyone a quick update.

I dropped the car off to get a look over and get my gauges/water injection kit installed.

The good news is, my gauges are all installed and working well.

My water injection kit is installed but I have yet to test to see if it works as I'm not going to be going in boost until tuned/engine break in is good. From what I see, all I need to do is change the min and max pressure? With this set, is this just telling at what boost PSI for the water to inject?

The bad is he didn't do too well in fixing the leaks I had. First was an oil leak that seemed to be coming from the oil pan (I have my oil temp sensor in the oil pan now and it seems as though it is the leak) He said he fixed it, but when I backed the car out after having it sit for a few hours, there was oil.

Another leak that he was supposed to fix was the "smoke" coming from the turbo. At first I thought this was the turbo blanket as you can see in the old video, but it really does seem to be coming from the oil line.

Here are some pictures and/video of the smoke if anyone can help

tapped into the Greddy Elbow



mounted in the trunk where you can remove the divider and fill the tank, make adjustments.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF_jIyfD41g

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Just wanted to do an update

Since last time I posted in this thread, I have fixed any fuel leaks that were happening at the time and I believe that the oil leak from the oil feed line is fixed. It is still smoking but I believe the turbo blanket soaked up oil while it was originally leaking so hopefully the smoke is just the oil burning off from the turbo blanket. I will see how it turns out.

Car seems to be running well. Put around 10 miles on the new build so far.

The car is still note tuned to go into boost or anything yet, but from what I've seen, AFR is sitting around 12.7-12.8 when sitting idle and sits pretty lean (14's or so) when just cruising at a constant speed.

Fuel pressure is sitting around 38-40psi when idle/driving around conservatively so that's good.

Water temp reading from the PFC sits at a comfortable 85 degrees.

Oil pressure is around 40-50psi when ideling and oil temp is around 140-150 degrees so I believe all of my readings are where they are supposed to be correct?

Haven't brought the car into boost yet obviously since I'm not tuned yet. Going to drive a few hundred miles to make sure the motor is running well and then get it on the dyno to get a tune.

Washed her today here is just a quick cell phone picture.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Today was the day the infamous Steve Kan flew in to tune the car. It's been a long 1 year building this car but it all payed off today.

There were a few hiccups during the session such as the boost and water injection not working correctly, so I got a conservative tune on just the wastegate spring (13-15psi). I didn't want to try to push the motor without the proper safety precautions. Once I get the water injection and boost controller fixed, I will set another tune with Steve.

Just some quick pictures I snapped, along with the dyno video. Finished with a safe 345rwhp/270rwtq. I was expecting ~400 with water injection, but again since the system wasn't running, I am playing it safe.

Until then, this power is plenty enough for me to have fun with. Big thanks to Steve and Chris (twomucboost4u) for all of their time and effort to get this together and run smoothly.







http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnPbA_P-FqU

G's 3rd Gen

iTrader: (11)

nice! you will have fun w/ that for a while. Get that injection working and let her rip!

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

What specifically is your WG spring? 12 psi or 15 psi?

I made around 440 rwhp IIRC at 15 psi..... seems like you're pretty down on power to be honest. How does the car feel on the street?

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

When Steve was first doing WOT runs, the boost was starting to spike to 17psi with the boost controller off. We ended up taking off the wastegate to see what spring was inside and it was a large blue which I believe is a 13.5psi spring. I am running a TiAL 44mm. The clamp on the WG was leaking which was I guess causing the spike. Re-clamped the clamp and he said it was holding around 14-15psi.

But like you said Rich, I was also pretty surprised on how low the numbers were.

As far as the car. I could care less about the numbers right now, it's just been a year of having this car and not being able to boost it. I just wanted to make sure I could finally enjoy the car and I definitely enjoy the "low" 345rrwhp. But once I get used to that, I'll have the potential to go higher.

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

I also have a similar set-up as you and right now I'm pushing around 420 rwhp at 13-14psi at 10.7 AFR's. I'd bet the problem is the B10EGV's w/HKS TP... I was down over 100rwhp with those plugs on my dyno day, we immediately swapped them for stock 9's and we were back in business over 400... I know your happy with where you're at right now but imagine another 100 rwhp!

Btw, Steve also tuned my 7 and he was the one who suggested we swap my plugs after being stumped on the first few runs...

Either way, have fun finally going WOT!

thewird

iTrader: (8)

You guys are getting to hung over on dyno numbers again. Different dyno, different number. I've had cars make 325 rwhp on one dyno and then make 370+ rwhp on a dyno across the street on the same day with nothing changed.

Also, an exhaust leak can cause a drop in power if its before the turbo but not that big.

thewird

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

first off, CONGRATULATIONS on your personal accomplishment!

the turbo'd modded FD is a complex beast even for those of us that have dealt w it over the years. Brian started pretty much at ground zero and did most of the work himself. most initial dyno sessions end up as fixing this and that and many don't even result in one good pull...

i think, given your car hadn't even been boosted prior to the session you had a very good day.

further i like your mature attitude to your project... being O K w a power output that is a start towards your eventual goal.

i started building/learning my FD in 1999. i am still building, still learning and there is much much more to do.

while there is much to applaud re FD modders the primary problems created come from wanting everything perfect yesterday. life doesn't work that way. if you are serious about accomplishing your FD project goal understand it is a journey, enjoy the process, take it in steps and i will promise you one thing...

the FD is capable, when properly modded, of delivering to you your wildest performance dreams.

Brian, WTG and just continue to take it one step at a time and you will be a happy camper.

howard