If you don't plan to track the car, I wouldn't worry about it. Like I mentioned, its a track thing due to extended high exhaust temps. If it has any affect on street driven only RX-7's, I wouldn't be able to tell you with certainty.

thewird

 

That clutch looks stock !! If it is you're making a grave mistake !!!

 

Looks good dude, keep up the good work! I'm runnin an A-spec 500R as well...Love it!

 

Clutch is not stock, Exedy clutch capable of up to 400rwhp. Going to purchase a new clutch when I get the car running 100% and AI is installed for when I push for over 400. I know it's easier to do it right now, but at this time, I'm just wanting to get the car back together and running. Plus, it's something to look forward to in the future to do

 

So working on the car today, we have the engine mated to the transmission and all bell housing bolts, but I don't think we have the actual "connection" with the transmission because when I go to push the clutch pedal in, it just goes straight to the floor and stays there. I don't have to put any force on the clutch pedal or anything, I push it just a little and it basically shoots to the floor.

I've done a few searches, but it seems like it could be a master/slave cylinder problem? Checked the brake/clutch fluid and it's fine. I don't understand how this could be a problem if it was in perfect working order when we were pulling the engine out. Any suggestions?

All I am really waiting on are my injectors, once they get in, I'll be able to install those and put the radiator/intercooler in and then just start hooking everything up electrically.

 

This is what we are looking at through the peep hole...that doesn't look right, we need to get that into the actual clutch correct?

 

So I was able to get the ring back to the clutch and it connected but when I push the clutch to test it, there is no resistance. The clutch pedal does now pop back up, but no/little resistance. When I take a look through the peep hole when someone pushes it, the clutch is pulled just very slightly.

 

did u bleed the slave cylinder? if u didnt that would cause the weak pedal

 

the clutch locking ring of course should be locked into the clutch fingers.spring/diaphragm.

i have never seen the ring out of the clutch until now. it will be important that it has actually snapped/locked onto the clutch fingers. which may be the case since you can see the clutch throwout bearing pulling on the fingers... which of course it should when you step on the pedal.

if it stays and you aren't getting enough movement of the clutch throwout bearing or arm then it is hydraulic.

you will need to bleed the clutch slave cylinder to firm up your pedal.

a long winded copy of post 34.

howard

 

So I haven't updated in a while but the car is coming along pretty well. I have the following left to do.

1. Wire the injector harness into the engine wiring harness
2. Put the UIM/elbow/IC piping on
3. Connect the wiring harness to all sensors
4. Double check clutch/bleed clutch little more probably
5. Add oil/transmission oil
6. Load new base map (is this really needed for just start up? the base map has a tune for 550/1300 injectors, I now have 725/2000 injectors)
7. Cross fingers and hope the car starts up/doesn't leak/runs

Here is how it looks like right now, going to be in Vegas this weekend, so won't be able to get to the car again until two weeks from now.

 

Aloha!!!

 

Hey,

How did you run the coolant hose from the water pump housing lower neck to the firewall? I'm currently trying to do that right now.

- Andy

 

Buy about three or four feet of the hose in the link below and source a 90 degree plastic barb fitting from a parts store. Run the hose from the wp housing under the compressor cover over towards the fan relays, use the 90 degree there, then run it back towards your oem hard line. It's also a good idea to heat sleeve all the of the coolant hose.

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant..._Code=ATP-OIL1

 

How are you going to get this thing smogged?

 

Well, I think the day is coming!

There are a few problems though

I go to put my UIM on and hook up the sensor that is underneath the UIM and well, the engine harness doesn't fit the sensor.

I purchased this UIM already ceramic coated from a user on here and it looks as though the sensor is an aftermarket one. I looked at my old UIM and the sensors threading is A LOT smaller and the fitting is different.

Here are some pictures of the sensor and the threading. Is there a way to find a connection or how exactly am I going to get this to work? Is it an essential part? I'm pretty sure this is the air intake temp sensor.

Also missing is, I do not know where my O2 sensor is that goes into my downpipe. I see pictures of it in when I first took pictures of the car, but where could this have gone? Is this part of the wiring harness? I'm totally at a blank right now.

Here is how the car sits right now



Things left to do:

1. Put the last IC pipe on
2. Add fluids (oil, transmission oil, 2-stroke oil, coolant)
3. Load new base map

START THE CAR!

 

Well I don't know if this is good or bad news.

The car started amazingly on the first attempt. I had to keep giving it gas it would never idle but I am pretty sure that is just adjustments.

Second, I didn't really check my FPR as you'll see in the videos it wasn't the main concern, but checking on the videos, my FPR is reading ~50psi, so we'll have to loosen it correct?

Third and the most concerning as I'm sure you'll be able to hear is that "tick/knocking" noise. It sounds as if it is coming from the water pump area or just in that general area.

I've uploaded the 3 videos I took and I have no idea where to start checking first.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyIyT7Ts3rk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6UETMqlq_A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kk0AK5uyfR0

 

Crank the engine manually at the alternator pulley with a wrench and see if you can more easily identify the problem without exhaust noise. It almost sounds like something is up against one of the pulleys or possibly a clutch/flywheel issue. Basically look into anything that spins as thats what it sounds like. This noise is very familiar for some reason but I can't recall from where.

Glad that map worked for you to get the car going. Set the fuel pressure to 43.5 PSi with the vacuum hose disconnected and the engine running.

thewird

 

How close is that Water hose clamp to that pulley? it looks like its hitting it in the second vid... Its definitely metal on metal....

 

Now that I think about it.....look closer at the bolts holding on the water pump pulley...they look really close just at the vid....

 

Just went out to the car to check them and it looks like they are at a safe distance from any of the pulleys. It definitely sounds like it is coming from that area though, or possibly something under the UIM is loose and it's rattling on it but I can't figure what it is.

 

Take the air filter off the turbo and see if it if it spins freely.

thewird

 

Are you sure..... I'm a little stubborn.. haha. But the bolts...themselves may be okay..but the clamp that is holding on the coolant hose right next to it... The backside of the tightening nut may be getting nicked by those bolts maybe?.....

 

the back end of that tightening bolt might be sticking out just enough to barely nick those bolts... if that makes sense...

 

No I definitely understand what you're asking. I checked it the first time and it looked fine.

I snapped a pic just to show the clearance.

 

are all of your pulleys secured well like to your water pump and what not? it sounds like it is related to engine speed not just any clunking or rattling. it sounds to me like it is definitely related to a pulley hitting or scraping on something. good luck let us know what it is when you find out.