1994 A-Spec 500R Single Turbo Build
09-30-10, 02:53 AM
#52
all the pulleys tight?
did u do anything to the water pump perhaps excessive heat (Seize bearing) lol i did that haha...
pulleys alligned correctly
100% sure nothing fell into the engine? or front cover?
it deffff sounds like metal on metal... anyhting fall in the bellhousing? hmm running out of ideas... =/
did u do anything to the water pump perhaps excessive heat (Seize bearing) lol i did that haha...
pulleys alligned correctly
100% sure nothing fell into the engine? or front cover?
it deffff sounds like metal on metal... anyhting fall in the bellhousing? hmm running out of ideas... =/
09-30-10, 11:10 AM
#54
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: US
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
all the pulleys tight?
did u do anything to the water pump perhaps excessive heat (Seize bearing) lol i did that haha...
pulleys alligned correctly
100% sure nothing fell into the engine? or front cover?
it deffff sounds like metal on metal... anyhting fall in the bellhousing? hmm running out of ideas... =/
did u do anything to the water pump perhaps excessive heat (Seize bearing) lol i did that haha...
pulleys alligned correctly
100% sure nothing fell into the engine? or front cover?
it deffff sounds like metal on metal... anyhting fall in the bellhousing? hmm running out of ideas... =/
It is my first single but the previous owner had the single on the car already. I just pulled the engine, rebuilt it and added some other parts (new fuel system etc) I've heard nothing but great things about Sean and A-Spec and this kit though so I stayed with it.
09-30-10, 11:32 PM
#58
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: US
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well great news guys! Found the problem! It was the tab that held the OMP lines that went up to the engine. I took the belt off and turned the engine and just watched the green tab on the crank pulley. Saw that it came awfully close to that OMP tab and then noticed it had some scratches on it. That was the only thing I could see coming close to it. Bent it up, started the car and the knocking was all gone!
So now the questions and concerns
1. The car doesn't hold idle, I had to keep my foot on the pedal the whole time in order to keep it alive. Is this just based on tune or are there adjustments I need to make in order for it to hold idle or a combination of both?
2. Previously, my gauge showed that I didn't have oil pressure when I first tried to build oil pressure before starting the car up. After pulling the oil feed line to the turbo and then turning the car over without the spark plugs and fuses pulled, we got oil coming into the cup, so we knew we had oil pressure but the gauge didn't show any. I noticed when I was inside the car just now, that the oil pressure gauge was moving. It was in between 0 and 60 just sitting there at idle. Is this normally where it should be at idle or do I have weak oil pressure problem?
3. The car literally sounds like it has a cam in it haha. It sounds pretty rough from inside the car and as if things were "shaking/knocking" and just didn't sound smooth at all I'm guessing and hoping this is just a tuning issue or is there other things I need to check for.
4. Fuel pressure. As you can hear in the video if you watched it all, we adjusted fuel pressure to 43. Should it be adjusted to 30 because I've heard it should be 30 at idle. At this time, I rather be too rich than too lean. On the good side, no fuel leaks!
At the time that is all I have! The video is boring, but it definitely made me happy to have the car at least started!
P.S. Go ahead and shoot all the insults you want about what I'm wearing lol.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xB-obBxl464
So now the questions and concerns
1. The car doesn't hold idle, I had to keep my foot on the pedal the whole time in order to keep it alive. Is this just based on tune or are there adjustments I need to make in order for it to hold idle or a combination of both?
2. Previously, my gauge showed that I didn't have oil pressure when I first tried to build oil pressure before starting the car up. After pulling the oil feed line to the turbo and then turning the car over without the spark plugs and fuses pulled, we got oil coming into the cup, so we knew we had oil pressure but the gauge didn't show any. I noticed when I was inside the car just now, that the oil pressure gauge was moving. It was in between 0 and 60 just sitting there at idle. Is this normally where it should be at idle or do I have weak oil pressure problem?
3. The car literally sounds like it has a cam in it haha. It sounds pretty rough from inside the car and as if things were "shaking/knocking" and just didn't sound smooth at all I'm guessing and hoping this is just a tuning issue or is there other things I need to check for.
4. Fuel pressure. As you can hear in the video if you watched it all, we adjusted fuel pressure to 43. Should it be adjusted to 30 because I've heard it should be 30 at idle. At this time, I rather be too rich than too lean. On the good side, no fuel leaks!
At the time that is all I have! The video is boring, but it definitely made me happy to have the car at least started!
P.S. Go ahead and shoot all the insults you want about what I'm wearing lol.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xB-obBxl464
10-01-10, 01:19 AM
#59
you can adjust the throttle body...and hopefully get the idle to sit around 8-900ish.. But other than that...it's a new motor..and you should get a decent base map on there if there isn't one already on there...
also...how thin is your exhaust piping? almost sounds like a slight exhaust leak somewhere..
also...how thin is your exhaust piping? almost sounds like a slight exhaust leak somewhere..
10-01-10, 01:51 AM
#60
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: US
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you can adjust the throttle body...and hopefully get the idle to sit around 8-900ish.. But other than that...it's a new motor..and you should get a decent base map on there if there isn't one already on there...
also...how thin is your exhaust piping? almost sounds like a slight exhaust leak somewhere..
also...how thin is your exhaust piping? almost sounds like a slight exhaust leak somewhere..
As far as my exhaust piping, the sound doesn't sound right does it? I don't know how to describe it, but it just doesn't sound/feel right when I'm sitting in the car. It is a lot "rougher" if I can say that. I don't know if that is normal for a streetported car or not. This is my first streetported engine.
10-01-10, 02:25 AM
#61
Fuel pressure at idle depends on a lot of things and should never be set with the vacuum line plugged in. Basically to set fuel pressure you start the car, remove the vacuum line and set the fuel pressure to 43.5 PSi with it disconnected. Then reconnect the vacuum line when your done and thats it.
If you have a street port idle should be anywhere from 950-1100 depending on how big the ports are. Just go by ear. Since this is a fresh engine higher is always better for the first few 100 miles or so, so set it to 1100-1200 by turning the screw underneath the throttle body 1-2 turns counter-clockwise.
Do you have a wideband? If you do I can adjust your fuel for yah. Or I could try loading my old fuel map with the 725's which was done on a streetport.
thewird
If you have a street port idle should be anywhere from 950-1100 depending on how big the ports are. Just go by ear. Since this is a fresh engine higher is always better for the first few 100 miles or so, so set it to 1100-1200 by turning the screw underneath the throttle body 1-2 turns counter-clockwise.
Do you have a wideband? If you do I can adjust your fuel for yah. Or I could try loading my old fuel map with the 725's which was done on a streetport.
thewird
10-01-10, 03:00 AM
#62
yea... Listen to thewird... he knows what he's talking about. I have a street/race ported motor and super thin stainless exhaust piping..and you can actually hear every pulse of the motor...but an exhaust leak is very distinguishable... But maybe it's just the echo from the gorage... all exhaust is bolted up nice and tight?... Sounds great though!! can't wait to get my motor rebuilt and back in!!
10-01-10, 10:19 AM
#63
35r 13b first gen
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Richland Center WI
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Excellent!! glad to hear you got the scraping ticking figured out figured it had to have something to do with the pulleys. Cool now on to the next step huh? I don't know much if anything about fuel injection maps and all that. good luck to you tho
10-01-10, 10:37 AM
#64
Well great news guys! Found the problem! It was the tab that held the OMP lines that went up to the engine. I took the belt off and turned the engine and just watched the green tab on the crank pulley. Saw that it came awfully close to that OMP tab and then noticed it had some scratches on it. That was the only thing I could see coming close to it. Bent it up, started the car and the knocking was all gone!
So now the questions and concerns
1. The car doesn't hold idle, I had to keep my foot on the pedal the whole time in order to keep it alive. Is this just based on tune or are there adjustments I need to make in order for it to hold idle or a combination of both?
off?
2. Previously, my gauge showed that I didn't have oil pressure when I first tried to build oil pressure before starting the car up. After pulling the oil feed line to the turbo and then turning the car over without the spark plugs and fuses pulled, we got oil coming into the cup, so we knew we had oil pressure but the gauge didn't show any. I noticed when I was inside the car just now, that the oil pressure gauge was moving. It was in between 0 and 60 just sitting there at idle. Is this normally where it should be at idle or do I have weak oil pressure problem?
3. The car literally sounds like it has a cam in it haha. It sounds pretty rough from inside the car and as if things were "shaking/knocking" and just didn't sound smooth at all I'm guessing and hoping this is just a tuning issue or is there other things I need to check for.
4. Fuel pressure. As you can hear in the video if you watched it all, we adjusted fuel pressure to 43. Should it be adjusted to 30 because I've heard it should be 30 at idle. At this time, I rather be too rich than too lean. On the good side, no fuel leaks!
congrats man
10-03-10, 02:21 PM
#65
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: US
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I've been working with thewird on just getting the car to idle so I can set my fuel pressure.
Here are some videos I made to check my oil pressure gauge. Don't mind the coolant warning, I added more coolant and that is now off.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIGC1WXeXTM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPxsL58N2QA
My idle problem still exists. I went to adjust the AAS and when I try to turn it counter-clockwise, it is already all the way tight.
Really, once I get the car to idle without having my foot on the gas, I'll be able to adjust my fuel pressure.
Here are some videos I made to check my oil pressure gauge. Don't mind the coolant warning, I added more coolant and that is now off.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIGC1WXeXTM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPxsL58N2QA
My idle problem still exists. I went to adjust the AAS and when I try to turn it counter-clockwise, it is already all the way tight.
Really, once I get the car to idle without having my foot on the gas, I'll be able to adjust my fuel pressure.
10-03-10, 04:24 PM
#70
Screw it down to raise the idle. This one doesn't need to be turned much. You also, don't want to go out of spec with the TPS voltages or you'll have to recalibrate the TPS. Refer to that document I gave you. Turning this screw is the equivalent of giving it throttle.
He told me it was plugged. HardHitter, this is the coldstart I was referring to.
I'm starting to get the feeling the car just needs to run a bit to build some compression.
thewird
I'm starting to get the feeling the car just needs to run a bit to build some compression.
thewird
10-03-10, 04:28 PM
#71
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: US
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, so I adjusted my TAS and the car idles!
Idles from 990-1100rpms.
I took the vacuum hose off the FPR and adjusted it to be at 43.5psi. Once I connected the hose back on though, the FPR read just slightly below 40. I thought at idle it should be around 30psi?
I did find a coolant leak though so I'm going to have to fix that, but other than that, the car idles.
Idles from 990-1100rpms.
I took the vacuum hose off the FPR and adjusted it to be at 43.5psi. Once I connected the hose back on though, the FPR read just slightly below 40. I thought at idle it should be around 30psi?
I did find a coolant leak though so I'm going to have to fix that, but other than that, the car idles.
10-03-10, 04:30 PM
#72
Ok, so I adjusted my TAS and the car idles!
Idles from 990-1100rpms.
I took the vacuum hose off the FPR and adjusted it to be at 43.5psi. Once I connected the hose back on though, the FPR read just slightly below 40. I thought at idle it should be around 30psi?
I did find a coolant leak though so I'm going to have to fix that, but other than that, the car idles.
Idles from 990-1100rpms.
I took the vacuum hose off the FPR and adjusted it to be at 43.5psi. Once I connected the hose back on though, the FPR read just slightly below 40. I thought at idle it should be around 30psi?
I did find a coolant leak though so I'm going to have to fix that, but other than that, the car idles.
1) your running higher fuel pressure then stock
2) your motor is not stock so its not going to pull the same vacuum
thewird
10-03-10, 09:11 PM
#73
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: US
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is a video I took during the day. Incase you can't hear what I'm saying, basically me just rambling on.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cl3BtshLhi4
I don't know where I go from now, other than fixing the coolant leak by the thermostat housing. Do I start to drive the car around to break in or what is the usual procedure?
I will be bringing the car around to a local rotary mechanic to get it checked over as well as getting my water injection installed and my 5 gauges (AEM A/F wideband, Truboost gauge/controller, oil temp, oil pressure and fuel pressure)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cl3BtshLhi4
I don't know where I go from now, other than fixing the coolant leak by the thermostat housing. Do I start to drive the car around to break in or what is the usual procedure?
I will be bringing the car around to a local rotary mechanic to get it checked over as well as getting my water injection installed and my 5 gauges (AEM A/F wideband, Truboost gauge/controller, oil temp, oil pressure and fuel pressure)
10-04-10, 12:01 AM
#74
Go drive it. DON'T BOOST and you'll be fine. I added a ton of fuel under boost so it should be safe but its better to be safe since you don't have a wideband to know for sure. That last map I gave you should be plenty rich, if it runs well, we can try the previous one which should be more correct. Avoid freeways where your at a steady speed, try to keep alternating load on the engine for best breakin.
thewird
thewird
10-04-10, 01:13 AM
#75
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: US
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Once again I cannot thank you enough for all the help that you've done for the maps. I probably won't be able to work on the car again until next weekend, but once I fix the coolant leak, I'll see if I can take it down the street and see how it drives.
Again, I do not want to risk going into boost although I know we have the car running rich to be safe.
What is the standard procedure of breaking the motor in (how many miles, oil/fluid changes, etc etc) When you say to keep alternating the load on the engine, how should I go about doing this? Slowing climbing the rpms as I accelerate, doing some quick 2k-3k acceleration while staying out of boost, going all the way up to redline, etc etc.
I'm hoping to bring the car to a mechanic as soon as I can to get my water injection and gauges installed so I will be able to read the car more/properly.
Again, I do not want to risk going into boost although I know we have the car running rich to be safe.
What is the standard procedure of breaking the motor in (how many miles, oil/fluid changes, etc etc) When you say to keep alternating the load on the engine, how should I go about doing this? Slowing climbing the rpms as I accelerate, doing some quick 2k-3k acceleration while staying out of boost, going all the way up to redline, etc etc.
I'm hoping to bring the car to a mechanic as soon as I can to get my water injection and gauges installed so I will be able to read the car more/properly.