Single Turbo RX-7's Questions about all aspects of single turbo setups.

10 sec?

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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 08:43 AM
  #1  
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10 sec?

Hello since im getting my FD home next week from england to sweden i was thinking of what to get for it to modify during the winter.

my goal is 10 or mid 11s on the quartermile.

what do i need to get?

yea single turbo of course but wich one is best for a reasonable amount of money

do i have to port the engine? i dont realy want to open it up yet becouse its rebuilt to an original state.

and a good PFC setting

race fuel or E85 ethanol will be used, or our jungle juice 99 octane pump gas.

M/T ET street tires as well.
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 10:54 AM
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Hope you have about 15,000$

Turbo (10's have been done on T60-1's, GT35's, etc) definitely 11's
Porting - at least a midrange street port
Intercooler
Exhaust
Boost Controller
Blow off Valve
Fuel Setup (at least 850/1300cc if you want 450-500ish, go 1600cc if you want 500+)
FUel Pump
Radiator

Find a good tuner
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 01:33 PM
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ok but to run an mid or high 11? i can see that a used T61 goes for about 1000USD here in sweden but on a t04R or t04Z how fast you think i can go?

my car is already fitted with most of the things exept the single kit and porting.

i have found a guy here in sweden that can fix a T04 single kit for around 4500USD with the powerFC and boost controller.

what do you think i can run on a non ported engine with the T04R kit? and the intercooler and stuff that almost every 7 have
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 01:47 PM
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your going to have top drop aboput 15,000 for 10 sec. my set up is a race port motor with 3 mm seal a t-78 turbo then you have to consider the fuel system i have 850 primary and 1600 secondarys and a nippondenso supra fuel pumo. with power fc there alot more but its long to list you better be completely devoted to the car or else its not worth it ive spent three years of my liife getting it right but it will def. run 11 or 10 and its worth the effort if you can afford it.its a trip to drive.
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 01:49 PM
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a non ported motor will produce 400 if your lucky and have a great tuner but its unlikely that will give you a low 12 if you drive really well
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by lassen118
a non ported motor will produce 400 if your lucky and have a great tuner but its unlikely that will give you a low 12 if you drive really well

a non-ported motor CAN GIVE U OVER 400. this has been proven over and over. and stock ports CAN DEF get u in 11's 10 im unsure about this!
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 04:21 PM
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Give us a call and we can go over different options for you!
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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yes stock ports WILL get you into the 11's ask Jrats stock FC motor which did, even though like i told him i think he could have made it into the 10's with the stock port if he went to the t67 instead of the t61 he has now. but he did have to move up to a street port in order to get into the 10's. and those are stock FC ports which are much smaller then FD ones right?
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ikari899
yes stock ports WILL get you into the 11's ask Jrats stock FC motor which did, even though like i told him i think he could have made it into the 10's with the stock port if he went to the t67 instead of the t61 he has now. but he did have to move up to a street port in order to get into the 10's. and those are stock FC ports which are much smaller then FD ones right?
correct
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 04:19 PM
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You forgot to add a good clutch .
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 07:38 PM
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Since i just made it into the 10s 2 days ago, i feel like i should add my two cents. The ET Streets made the biggest difference for me. My best 60' with street tires (Ecsta MX) was a 2.2 something, my best with ET Streets = 1.593. Big difference, tires are key. Just before to take care of your drive train, i snapped an OEM axle like it was a twig my first time out on ET Streets.
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 08:21 PM
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................And an up graded diff .
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Old Jun 24, 2007 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Marcel Burkett
You forgot to add a good clutch .
Which is the best bang for the buck?
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 05:36 AM
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Running 10's is easier than you think. I did it with a stock re-man, stock ignition, and stock primary injectors.
I had a POS stage 2 SR Motorsports Holeset turbo, 1600 secondaries, Apexi fuel pump, and a 3" exhaust. Thats it. Ran 22lbs of boost with C116. Running 9's is a bit harder, lol....
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 11:08 AM
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yeah, 10's isn't that hard.


Sure as hell doesn't take $15K.

If you spend your money right, it doesn't even have to take $5k.

The best bang for buck clutch seems to be the ACT XTREME setup. I bought a used one for $100 and haven't made it slip yet.

Stock diff and axles are fine, if you PRELOAD.
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 12:36 PM
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for all the people claiming 10's will cost 15K, didn't someone run 10.99 on stock FD twin turbo's?
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 02:40 PM
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I guess it helps if your good at drag racing as I have run 132mph a few times and still can't get into 10's lol.



Brian
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by slo
for all the people claiming 10's will cost 15K, didn't someone run 10.99 on stock FD twin turbo's?
Yes, one person in a million did. Not the norm, by any means.
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ErnieT
Yes, one person in a million did. Not the norm, by any means.
There where a million FD's made???

JK
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 04:36 PM
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ok made 15k was a bit over the top...

I made over 500hp on stock ports with a TD08 and 26psi.....

I suppose you can look at it this way:

Turbo Kit - 3000-4500$
Fuel - 500-1000$
ECU - 600-1000$
Tuning - 350-1000$
Ignition - 250-500$
Clutch - 400-1400$

You figure you can spend around 6k and have a decent setup. Depends on how you want to go. My setup isn't cheap.

T51r, Twin Plate Clutch, Jaytech setup (hurry up Keith, lol)

but to each his own
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 09:16 PM
  #21  
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The key is to run tens more than once, so to be dependable and run tens theres usually more money needed. And parts will still problly break!
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 09:44 PM
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man, I bought my turbo kit for $600 used off of a forum member. (Greddy fmic, greddy TD07-25A, panspeed manifold, trust 50mm wg.. yeah this was a really good deal)
My ecu was $300 (www.megasquirt.info)
my fuel system, another $300. Used walbro 255 for $40, 2 ford 1680 injectors for $40, 2 720cc injectors that I allready had, then some various fittings and hoses from rusell. Oh, and an aeromotive A-1000.
Tuning, I did myself with a wideband. I think it's pretty far from ideal, but hey, it hasn't blown up yet, and it's gone 11.6@ 120, and trapped 132, so it's making power. Wideband was $350 brand new, including taxes.
Clutch, a used $100 ACT XTREME disk and pp. Nothing special there.
FMIC, included in the turbo kit cost.
Motor build, not even sure if it was necessary, but it cost $1200. Halfbridge S5 core.
I still run the stock ignition. 9EQ's all around.
Exhaust cost $300 (3" straight through setup, thermal R&D muffler. It's pretty quiet for a bridgey.
Used mickey thompson DR's on supra wheels: $100
relocated my battery, $75 in stuff to do that. Not really necessary, but I still did it.

_____________
all that = $3325. Car cost $1500, 5 years ago.

I was running 20psi on race gas, I even was too cheap to buy real racegas and made some myself by mixing shell V-power with toluene in a 50/50 mix.

Aside from breaking a transmission (my fault) and a diff tulip (also my fault, I didn't preload) - it's been totally reliable so far. No other issues.
It's easily a high 10's capable car, I just need to get to the track.

This year, however, I'm probably going to spend another $3k, between the saftey stuff required (rollcage, fire suit, battery switch, etc), and a set of real tires (slicks and skinnies!) and some further optimizations (meth injection, for more boost on pumpgas), that will get me much deeper into the 10's, and not get me booted off the track when I go. :P

Pushing much further however, is going to drive costs up exponentinally, as I start having to replace much more of the stock drivetrain with upgraded parts. T56 transmission, ford 8.8" rear end, etc.

I'm probably not going to push much further, the car is allready damn fast.

Last edited by Terrh; Jun 25, 2007 at 09:51 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Terrh
man, I bought my turbo kit for $600 used off of a forum member. (Greddy fmic, greddy TD07-25A, panspeed manifold, trust 50mm wg.. yeah this was a really good deal)
My ecu was $300 (www.megasquirt.info)
my fuel system, another $300. Used walbro 255 for $40, 2 ford 1680 injectors for $40, 2 720cc injectors that I allready had, then some various fittings and hoses from rusell. Oh, and an aeromotive A-1000.
Tuning, I did myself with a wideband. I think it's pretty far from ideal, but hey, it hasn't blown up yet, and it's gone 11.6@ 120, and trapped 132, so it's making power. Wideband was $350 brand new, including taxes.
Clutch, a used $100 ACT XTREME disk and pp. Nothing special there.
FMIC, included in the turbo kit cost.
Motor build, not even sure if it was necessary, but it cost $1200. Halfbridge S5 core.
I still run the stock ignition. 9EQ's all around.
Exhaust cost $300 (3" straight through setup, thermal R&D muffler. It's pretty quiet for a bridgey.
Used mickey thompson DR's on supra wheels: $100
relocated my battery, $75 in stuff to do that. Not really necessary, but I still did it.

_____________
all that = $3325. Car cost $1500, 5 years ago.

I was running 20psi on race gas, I even was too cheap to buy real racegas and made some myself by mixing shell V-power with toluene in a 50/50 mix.

Aside from breaking a transmission (my fault) and a diff tulip (also my fault, I didn't preload) - it's been totally reliable so far. No other issues.
It's easily a high 10's capable car, I just need to get to the track.

This year, however, I'm probably going to spend another $3k, between the saftey stuff required (rollcage, fire suit, battery switch, etc), and a set of real tires (slicks and skinnies!) and some further optimizations (meth injection, for more boost on pumpgas), that will get me much deeper into the 10's, and not get me booted off the track when I go. :P

Pushing much further however, is going to drive costs up exponentinally, as I start having to replace much more of the stock drivetrain with upgraded parts. T56 transmission, ford 8.8" rear end, etc.

I'm probably not going to push much further, the car is allready damn fast.
Looks like I totally spaced the wideband and intercooler/bov.

My setup is as follows:

Turbo Kit: $4500
4" Exhaust - $300
Ignition Setup - $1600
Intercooler/Bov w/Fabrication - $2500
Clutch - $1400
Fuel Setup - $1600
ECU - $1500
Methanol - $600
Misc Gauges/Wideband - $1400
Tuning - $1000
Engine Build - $4500

I'm already at 20,900$

Of course, my car is still far from finished. But I think she'll do well and perform great. Oh yeah, suspension setup is another $2000... sigh.

Damn, that's depressing... lol
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 01:21 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Terrh
man, I bought my turbo kit for $600 used off of a forum member. (Greddy fmic, greddy TD07-25A, panspeed manifold, trust 50mm wg.. yeah this was a really good deal)
My ecu was $300 (www.megasquirt.info)
my fuel system, another $300. Used walbro 255 for $40, 2 ford 1680 injectors for $40, 2 720cc injectors that I allready had, then some various fittings and hoses from rusell. Oh, and an aeromotive A-1000.
Tuning, I did myself with a wideband. I think it's pretty far from ideal, but hey, it hasn't blown up yet, and it's gone 11.6@ 120, and trapped 132, so it's making power. Wideband was $350 brand new, including taxes.
Clutch, a used $100 ACT XTREME disk and pp. Nothing special there.
FMIC, included in the turbo kit cost.
Motor build, not even sure if it was necessary, but it cost $1200. Halfbridge S5 core.
I still run the stock ignition. 9EQ's all around.
Exhaust cost $300 (3" straight through setup, thermal R&D muffler. It's pretty quiet for a bridgey.
Used mickey thompson DR's on supra wheels: $100
relocated my battery, $75 in stuff to do that. Not really necessary, but I still did it.

_____________
all that = $3325. Car cost $1500, 5 years ago.

I was running 20psi on race gas, I even was too cheap to buy real racegas and made some myself by mixing shell V-power with toluene in a 50/50 mix.

Aside from breaking a transmission (my fault) and a diff tulip (also my fault, I didn't preload) - it's been totally reliable so far. No other issues.
It's easily a high 10's capable car, I just need to get to the track.

This year, however, I'm probably going to spend another $3k, between the saftey stuff required (rollcage, fire suit, battery switch, etc), and a set of real tires (slicks and skinnies!) and some further optimizations (meth injection, for more boost on pumpgas), that will get me much deeper into the 10's, and not get me booted off the track when I go. :P

Pushing much further however, is going to drive costs up exponentinally, as I start having to replace much more of the stock drivetrain with upgraded parts. T56 transmission, ford 8.8" rear end, etc.

I'm probably not going to push much further, the car is allready damn fast.
you have an fc with a strong rear end, and he has an FD. it has a weak rearend.

also, you could have all the power in the world, but if you dont know how to launch/drive you will never hit ten's. (well i guess thats not true, but you know what i mean)
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