I want to convert my 13b rew to na and need some help.
I know i need to block off the oil and coolant lines to my turbo and cap off all my vacuum lines.
Im running a power fc untuned, would i need to do anything about the ecu?
To me converting it to na sounds simple but is there anything else im missing?

Thanks

 

Don't really need to do anything with the ECU, but you might as well retune. You could get more resolution in the vacuum to atmospheric pressure ranges. Might not change a lot but since your exhaust back pressure will be different as well as the intake...

 

You'll need a header and a little bit of exhaust work. It's basically just removing the turbos and intercooler, using an n/a style exhaust, and running a filter on the throttlebody. Preferably somewhere where it will get cool air. Plug the oil and water lines to the turbo and retune the ecu. That should basically be it. Keep in mind that you do have lower compression than standard n/a rotaries.

 

I just bought the RB header and modified from 2 pipes to 1.
Already got the air filter on arround the headlight area.
Plugged all the oil, water and vacuum already too.
I also did some extra stuff like rerouting more air to the intake from bumper and covering my radiator so the engine doesn't get heat soaked.

I'll post some pics soon

 

I'm curious why you are going this route? Not questioning the logic behind it. I'm just curious. FWIW: If I ever own an FD, it will be n/a and Renesis powered so no turbo for me either. I've been there and done that.

 

+2 on the note of curiosity.

unlike both of you, my would-be FD aspirations would most definitely include a turbo, but that's for another thread, i'm sure.

 

If my FD aspirations ever did get into the forced induction world, it would probably involve something on top of the motor with a couple of large inward spinning screws.

 

The reason im going na for now is bc my turbo is leaking oil like crazy (single turbo) and i call 3 shops arround my area to get it rebuilt but no one can do it bc they don't have the parts for it. I've also been working on this car for 3 years now and want to take a break and save alot of money to get a 3 rotor later.
Im also doing this so i could make it to sevenstock.

 

I ran into a little problem, my car ran find with no headers but after i put the headers on it starts and dies but i don't think thats the problem i think it has something to do with the vacuum lines.
What am i supose to do with the fuel injector atomization?
Also do i need the presure sensor still?
Those were the only thing i messed with after it was running fine.
Here are some pics.

 

You will still need the MAP sensor.
My REW currently still has the twins on, but they are just bolted on, no piping or anything. It's been running fine, but killer rich.
Is it possible you have a large vac leak?

Also, thanks for the wicked rad ducting idea

 

Where am i supose to connect the fuel injector atmoization line?
I think thats my only problem right now.

Also the rad ducting is probably my favorite part of this conv. it looks cool and should work fine with my vented hood.

 

What's a "fuel injector atomization line"? post a pic of it.

 

Theres a picture on post #20 it says you have to conect it to a intercooler pipe but i don't have one.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...vacuum+diagram

 

I would probably just put a cap on the nipple for that one.

 

Thanks
Im going to try and finish this car up tomorrow hopefully there won't be any more problem.

 

hehe, + 1

 

^bump

any update on the project?
did you have to tune the ecu?

 

Wow surprise to see this bump.

Unfortunately i sold the car a couple months after i finish this project.

But here's a video some one took of me leaving sevenstock a few years ago. 13B REW open headers.

www.facebook.com/v/141244013388

 

NA Renesis Fd? I know power to weight wise it's an improvement over the Rx8 but why not go NA 20b instead for the improved torque?

 

did you have to re-tune the ecu? or was it just straight bolt/unplug job?

 

you act like you can just pick up a 20B in a junk yard...

 

nope same tune as the twins with bolt on. Drive and idle fine but i've only driven it for like 10 min.

 

20b's are just as available as Renesis engines. Either way you would still have to fit the Renesis in the the Fd chassis and do a lot of custom fab work to make either engine run. 20b's have the advantage of having subframes available. Not so with the Renesis. The only main difference is you spend more money for the 20b engine and custom headers. Everything else is a wash!