I live in northeast corner of state, Pa state line is 2 miles away,my "loop" is mostly in Pa, rural Amish farmland,not much traffic on road. Favorite part is a flat stretch long enough to get thru all gears to about 100ish depending on what am riding/driving that transitions quickly to a tight left hand corkscrew turn dropping down 500 ft in elevation to a sharp right turn to approach to a wooden covered bridge. The bridge is good to stop on to listen for engine noises,checking warm idle...small ramp off bridge,good spot for launching,burnouts lol,then immediately uphill thru several sharp left/right/uphill/downhill turns to a stop sign. Slow cruise to home after turning onto couple other roads to my road. Early morning,after dark so you can see oncoming car headlights best time to "run" the loop. Need to have good lighting to see far enough ahead. Cons...certain times of year have to deal with deer,have had some interesting encounters. Same stretch is awesome in deep snow have couple 4wd trucks,you guys don't get that where you are,don't know what you're missing,lol. Only real downside is can't drive RX year round like you southerners can.
When you say"dodge"lug nut,is that actually for a dodge? Have seen gorilla brand locks in researching,considering their "spline"drive option.

 

Yup I dd my red car year round with summer tires on.

 

I wish! Once the salt/brine hits the road that's it til rains hard enough,long enough to wash it all off. Sometimes til spring... when those pics were taken my SE was in the garage from week after thanksgiving til 3rd week of April. Stripped,beadblasted,painted all suspension components,upgraded springs/shocks/swaybars/bushings/brakes/brake lines/ RB streetport exhaust...car sat there for over a month,3 feet of snow against garage door,salt on road,wasn't going anywhere.
What's the deal on Dodge lugnuts?

 

This is the correct answer

 

Dodge lug nuts from 2005 ish on are very cheaply made. They have a crummy pot metal center section that is the actual lug nut. Then they are covered in this cheap chrome like tin that swells over time.

Long story short Matco and Snap-on have both made 21.5mm sockets just because of the swell these lug nuts experience.


BUT Gorilla nuts makes a VERY high quality replacement nut. I recommend it to all the dodge customers who come to my shop. Gorilla also makes some really high quality wheel locks too.

 

Worked for Chrysler 11 years up until 2004 and that was an issue for a couple years prior too. Well made quality product...(sarcasm)didn't make the connection when you posted that,my mind was thinking locking lug nut. Thanks for the clarification.

 

great observation Mike!!! Damn.. just saw this post and did the red alert dash to the "bat cave" to scope it out. Only thing worse than realizing it's not there is realizing I can't find it anywhere. I put everything In neat little boxes when removing all necessary items to get near each hose/fitting. That nut just may not have made it to a box instead lost on a later test drive. I'm still searching but indeed THANK YOU for the yet again heads up!! Fortunately it is an aggressive tight fit of that bolt and it doesn't have s perpencity to wiggle loose. If I don't find it I'll round one up soon

 

bat cave..lol

 

My girl is asking what's with all the text's ? Showed her the thread and your engine compartment pic,pointed out missing nut. She's shaking her head,walking away,stops and says"you don't miss much do you! I swear i feel like i'm under a microscope with you! Told her i'm posting that now,she came back and smacked me in the back of my head,lol.

 

tell her your middle name is McGuiver.. that way she'll know what she's up against..! Lol

 

She knows...loves me anyway,lol.

 

I drove mine 125 miles all twisty roads, had a blast.

 

Left my cell phone on the roof of mine and drive to Oreillys to pick up a oil filter wrench. Yep.. when I got home I realized what I'd done. Used my fiancé phone to "find a friend" . Yep it was along side road. Drove to the spot where it should've been.. no phone!!! A lady in a van pulled up and said "y'all looking for this?!?" Not a scratch on it.. Otter Box is the #%it!! Moral? Don't put anything on your car for even second.. put it in the car or the workbench or floor!!! Not ON the car!! Phew !

 

Maybe the NUT for my alt/pivot bolt was laying there too!!? Should've looked!! Lol!

 

I have some of the spline drive "tuner" lugs - they were on my '79 (GSL-SE suspension), and were pretty much necessary with the Konig Rated-R wheels I have. I'm very happy with them. They are currently on my wife's Kia, because that'e where the wheels are, since that's where the wheels are because my '7 is down with one rotor, and the Kia uses the same size tires and bolt circle, and had worn tires.

I liked them enough that I've bought another set of the spline drives for my '90 RX-7, and for the Mustang wheels on my Crown Victoria.

Same socket fits them all. It's worth noting that these are not security lugs - the socket is fairly easy to get (my Discount tire never asks where mine is, for example) but your common thief may not have one. Gorilla does make security lugs in the same style, and is known for having quality product.

 

Just changed my oil and filter. Valvoline 20-50 VR1. Nothing but the best for my dog. Oil I drained looked pretty damn good for 5k. Filter didn't even look that dirty. Amazing for 32 years old. Japs know how to build em!! Plugs, cap and rotor next on the 15th. Feels good...

 

Made the trans mount....

have done some other things the last few weeks like finish off my droplinks and rear setup, also finished up my home made 4pot conversion

 

I just installed a TFI coil and HEI igniter based DLIDFIS on my car.

It was hard to start, and on high idle (I don't have a choke) it was misfiring a bit more than usual, so I was a little disappointed. Taking it for a test drive, it seemed to accelerate and drive almost the same, but lower rpms were smoother. It stalled a few times at idle, and was idling really low.

When I got it back home, I checked the timing and it was dead on. Unplugged the trailing, and it immediately stalled. Checked the ignition timing on the back rotor (should be the same) and there's the problem. The back plug is only firing half the time.

Switched the plug wires, no change. It's either a bad coil or module, and I used a brand new Delphi module on that side, so dollars to donuts it's the coil. Going to pick up a replacement at the junkyard tomorrow.

​​​​I'm almost jumping around in excitement. If it runs nearly as good as before with a bad coil, I can't wait to see how well it'll run when it works properly.

 

Need to go back and fault trace your ignition setup. The fact that car stalls when disconnecting trailing ignition proves you do not have functional leading ignition. Also responsible for all your above complaints. Car will run fine on leading ignition only,trailing ignition is for cleaning up combustion leftovers for emissions. As you have seen,will run on trailing but not well. Suggest leaving trailing disconnected while diagnosing leading ignition issues. Check your wiring from pick ups to module and module to coil- before you start replacing parts. You can substitute the trailing module for the leading-as you know it works to eliminate possibility of bad leading module. Post back what you find.

 

Over the last 3 days:
Replaced fuel line (leaking)
Installed Apex braided steel brake lines

 

Located a 10 x 1.25 metric nut and lock washer for the missing one on my alt bracket swivel. Thank you Mike for noticing that in my pic! All fixed.

 

I installed my new fuel pump. now twiddling with my FPR.

 

Iwrobins, does that car heat up on a bright summer summer day?

 

Wow, removing a manual steering box sucks if the car has A/C. And this is with the engine and radiator/oil cooler out!

Also removed the brake booster/master cylinder and clutch master so I can give the firewall and framerail a good solid scrubbing.

Glad i decided to hold off putting the engine in!

 

Bought this:

Just hunting for an appropriate turbo now...