Car:1988 t2

Mods: streetported, posted wastegate @15psi, fmic, 550/850 high impedance inj. (resistor pack delete), apexi safc, full 3inch, no ac/ps/emissions, innovate lc1, gilmer pulleys, greddy type rs bov, silicone vac lines, rad/elec fan, etc...

Fresh build. Fuel, spark, compression. Almost starts but just wont. Eshaft key way at 3'o'clock and timing marks at 12 o'clock. Tried key way at 9 as well. Car will not start. Timing light shows no strobe and it's fine itself. What is wrong? Need help. ASAP

 

If you have fuel, spark, and compression like you said, it's either flooded or the timing is off.

 

What would cause my timing light not to strobe? We tried it on my subaru and it worked fine. Mazda....nope. and i used it before. Before the new motor came along.

 

What kind of light is it as you need to use a specific type on the rotary. And you might want to place the clamp on a different part of the plug wire.

 

I had a newer timing light bought at kragen that didnt work. Borrowed my dads old craftsman timing light, and that one did.

 

It was a craftsman. This is frustrating. Could it be that hard to start with the starter? Coz we got it to go on a bump start for less than a min. But wouldnt start after that. And is my timing corrrect the way i set it?

 

Search for CAS (using advanced search) and add hailers to the search field ie (CAS hailers) and it will being up threads w/the visual look of how to stab the CAS withing a degree or two.

Like this:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...thread-868482/

 

Ok did what it said. Where does the key way on the front of the eshaft have to be? 9 and 3 o'clock are intake strokes
right?

 

.

 

I dont know how you can see your god damn key way anyways. That means you have the front hub removed?

 

Yeah, i pulled the pulley hub off. That's why i was wondering. That's what Atkins rotary told me.

Anyways so today I swapped cas's and still same stuff, it tries but won't go. So i decided to check my coils. Here's what they're supposed to measure and what i got.

Leading: L1-L2 = 12.56k ohms
A/B = 0.6k ohms

Trailing: A/B = O.L
A/T = 0.6 ohms

What i got:

: 16k ohms, jumping to 18
: 1.5k ohms

: O.L
: O.L

Is it me or are these coils jacked? Did i test then right? They are out of the car and im pretty sure I probed them right. And meter was zeroed out.

Would this cause my no start problem? Like it tries, it's close, it kicks, there's visible spark, but timing light doesnt pick up any signal.

 

The lead coil is the most important. Since it's a fresh rebuild and these are hard to start sometimes thus oil in the spark plug holes is necessary and you rotate the engine by hand a bit to spread the oil and then try to start the car.

 

Fyi if you pulled your hub off, you're going to have to restack the Torrington bearings

 

I just went through some similar issues, would start and immediately die (if I could get it to start at all), tried pouring oil down the intake to bump up compression, tried new plugs, tested coils, ect. Come to find out my CAS was working but wasn't (it would randomly cut out) even though it appeared to be working on my MS3Pro it actually wasn't working properly, went with a Hall effect trigger kit and started right up with no issues (besides tuning related issues)

What I'm getting at is check timing and if CAS is correct, check the CAS output, it was $300 for my trigger kit (can't use PS or AC) but was the best $300 I've spent on the car