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I hate jacking up the car. Especially getting it high enough to easily work on or under.
The new addition is a Ranger Quick Jack. I saw a link in GRM for their closeout of the 3500. I missed one of those, but they had an open box one for a very low price. I grabbed one for around $600, including shipping, with a warranty.
For the short term, things kind of went south. Parts got separated and lost in shipping (freight, not FedEx or UPS) and a small valve was busted (unknown manufacture defect). They were great about sorting it out and sending me pieces. In the end, it all sorted out.
This thing ROCKS!!! It works about like the videos. You put them under the car. Place them, hook up the lines, and the car is 20" off the ground in about 15 seconds. It is very very stable (I put jack stands under the car and shook it).
No more jack up the back, jack stands, jack up the front, jack stands, raise the back more, watch car shift, raise jack stands, raise the front more, watch the car shift again. Re jack up the back to settle all the stands, then get to work.
Down is just as easy.
The new one is supposed to be a little easier to use, but I could not beat the price on this one. It is going to be a blast at the track.
Just thought I would share.
This is a picture of the 8 in the air. Works just as well with the FC. In fact, on the FC, it it is only a few inches off the jack points.
Wow that's awesome! I can't count the times I haven't worked on my car because I didn't want to jack up the car. Lol I even made my own low profile race ramps to make it easier. I'll look into these. Thanks!
I dunno.. thats a pretty big investment for something you're still on your back for, except now you have hydraulic lines all over the place and the sides obstructed so you cant wizz around on the creeper.
We should convince Aaron Cake to make a battery operated Creeper..
Hell they got a gas powered skateboard out there,so a board with a small motor of some sort(electric) should be ..well..cake..!
Oh, I've thought about battery powered creepers before but the end result would be a racing league I think.
Quick Jack looks good, except for a few flaws:
-I don't see any safety. From the picture there doesn't appear to be any way to lock the parallelogram from collapsing if the ram gives out
-It takes up the whole side of the vehicle, limiting access to rolling under the tires (yikes) or entering via the front or rear entry (hehe).
-Lifts via the pinch weld. Vehicles are only designed to be lifted via specific jacking points on the pinch weld. For FC/FD/SA/FB, that is behind the front tire and in front of the rear tire
The hoses have a leakless QD right next to the lifts. So those get out of the way pretty easily.
As for blocked from the side, I thought it would be a big deal, but has not bothered me. The extra space vertically has more than made up for any access issues. I put the FC in the air and was able to easily roll up and down the length looking for exhaust leaks, fluid leaks, or anything else.
I have not tried to do a transmission, but it is high enough that a trans will easily go out either end.
@ Araron. First, thanks for the first start links. They were awesome. Also, check the web site, there is a bar that swings down and locks. There are 2 heights. You lower the bar, then back it back down until the bar catches in the slot. You get a fixed parallelogram in the back. I also toss a jack stand under the front edge just in case, to catch it on the way down.
As for pinch weld, yeah, but there are rubber blocks that go there and the next time I have the welder out, I will make more pinch weld savers. On the FC, it comes just short of hitting both jack points. The 8 is a bit more off, but the rubber blocks are about 5" long, so weight is spread out so I only get about 150 pounds per inch of weld. If I get more of the rubber blocks, it will cut that in half. Kind of how the low lifts in the tire shops work. also, a 2x4 is looking like a grand substitute for the rubber blocks.
